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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
CEL Popped in the morning after spraying the MAF the night before with brake cleaner non chloridated by mistake thinking it was my crc bottle instead. I went for a drive right after this and the car was running perfectly and i went back home. This morning when i cold start it the rpms did not stay at ~2k to get to desired temperature, the rpms dropped almost instantly to 700 at the usual idle speed . I had the cabin light on and the car was feeling like it was going to die a bit, nothing too crazy but enough to get the cabin light to drop in power from time to time. I shutdown the car and decide to investigate a bit since i dont have my scanner atm, everything looks normal and spark plugs are new, oil new, fuel filter new and nothing looks broken or loose in all of the hoses. I even took all the spark plugs back out to be sure and even got the charge pipe off, air filter off, maf off again and it didnt look bad, my air filter is a k&n and looks a bit black and dirty. I dediced to get everything back together and reset the ecu, i got the battery terminals off and noticed that there was brown sluggish goo all around my pos post, cleaned all of it and noticed a crack where the post meets the plastic. If i push sideways on the post i can see it moving and the cracks is visible and seperates the post from the plastic.

Got everything back together after an hour with a fresh ecu reset and the car started up fine, no cel or anything showed up while driving and everything was normal. Went home and parked the car, dediced to go to the store some time after ( the engine was still mid hot ) car started up fine, idle is smooth and as i get the car in reverse the cel pops out and i decided to go to the store anyways, the car felt very normal and i didnt notice anything strange, cel was on all the time, stopped the car at the store and it fired up normally when going back home, ran perfectly even with cel.

Now i am confused, would like to get some help before i decide to get it scanned at my local shop, i dont have access to a vida/dice at home right now.

What could cause this CEL ? Bad maf, clogged air filter ( is there any way to clean it manually without replacing it its a k&n ) , is the battery starting to die due to cracked post at the bottom ?

Any help appreciated !
 

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You can use a normal scanner to read a normal ob2 cel code then compare the obd2 to volvo codes. It will tell you where to start. Just go to autozone or something. But I would strongly consider buying vida/ dice in the near future. A must for owning an R.

From my electronic gismo- Galaxy S6
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi, i got the codes pulled today and they came up with a MAF sensor code. Now on every start up the car drops automaticly in rpm to 700 at usual speed and doesnt do the emission warm up at 2k rpm for about 10 seconds. It does this even on cold/warm startup, i will go buy maf cleaner and spray it with it, the car drives perfectly fine and i tried to unplug the maf while the car is idle and it sounded slightly less bumpy and biiit more even, shop said there might also be a leak within the air system causing a maf code. I will check if everything is tight again in the air system to the inlet and everything, i didnt want them to do a smoke test because of the cost and will investigate again myself tomorrow. Will try to look for a solution before replacing the maf...

Any help appreciated !
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So this drop in rpm instantly after start is due to the maf ?, it would normally go up to 2k then drop after 10 sec. I will still clean mine and maybe check for used
 

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Step 1: throw K&N filter in garbage
Step 2: replace MAF
Step 3: use OEM air filter
Step 4: Enjoy no CEL anymore Becuase of junk K&N design

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

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Step 1: throw K&N filter in garbage
Step 2: replace MAF
Step 3: use OEM air filter
Step 4: Enjoy no CEL anymore Becuase of junk K&N design

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
This all day. Going back to OEM made my car shift better as well. Also never use brake cleaner on the MAF

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
 

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The K&N filter is cleanable. But it also requires oil to work, which can easily go and foul up your MAF.

I would personally ditch it for an OEM or some sort of dry filter.
 

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I can't bad mouth a K&N oiled filter for any of the applications it will works well for, like carbs and hot wire type MAFs. The problem is that the R's bosch sensor is not a hot wire type system, instead it uses a heated sensor element that is doesn't get near as hot as a hot wire does and therefore can not burn off any of the tacky residue that gets sucked through the maf.

Just to give you an idea what our element looks like as opposed to what the almost red hot wires of other systems look like, here is a pic of my sensor that I broke and then took apart.

 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Bought a kit to clean and re-oil the filter this morning, also received my boost gauge ( aftermarket ) can anyone refer me to a diy on how to install it the non ipd way.
 

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So despite all the good advice to ditch the oiled filter you are going to stick with it? Good luck with that . . . .
HAHA!!! Can you hear me now?



You sir, are making a mistake, but it is your mistake to make, so enjoy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
the K&N on this R was used since day 1 by the first owner, i just cleaned it and it became brand new again, and i did take apart the old maf to take a look at there was absolutely no oil or tacky residue whatsoever after i dont know how many years of driving a k&n. The sensor is messed up on mine due to scratches on it and oil from the filter does not even come into play, there is literally nothing greasy in there and that many years without anything tacky on the unit is enough for me to not bother about switching back to oem yet, i will later when this filter is completely dead.

I appreciate your help, i already went tru many posts about filters and to each his own i think if you maintain it properly it can last quite a long time and the maf will be fine.

I'm going to try a maf alternative that someone suggested in another thread and tried with good results, already ordered and costed 40$ on ebay.

Thanks for sharing the problem you had with your maf.
 

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For it's actual size, it offers no benefit over the OEM filter. But you can either potentially foul your MAF, or let too much particulates through.

Hold the filter up to a light. You'll see some sizable and disconcerting holes.

Only going to a larger filter, will you actually see gains. And even then, only if you actually are drawing in enough air to warrant the larger filter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Thanks for the info guys !

Still getting cel maf code

I went in my garage this afternoon and cleaned the filter the hell out and a lot of **** came out of it, literally covered the whole entry with black dirty water. As i dont have an OEM filter right off the bat i will probably order one when i get the opportunity. I did however cleaned the actual k&n that my R has been wearing for quite a long time and was used by the ancient owner, it became really clean with the products i've used and it almost took an entire bottle of k&n air filter cleaner and lots of rinse to get all the crap out. I oiled it gently after making sure i dont over oil the whole filter, always rubbed the filter with a clean cloth after each small coats and it ended up looking nice. I also installed a boost gauge at the same time and AGAIN made sure all the turbo inlets/outlets hoses are not loose, i hooked up the boost measure line to the small line on the right driver side when infront of engine of the manifold for max readings.

I then cleaned my maf with proper crc maf sensorkleen and i realised there was no metal wire surrounding the 2 little connections on the side of the maf is this normal ? , considered i mistakingly sprayed the maf at first with brake clean... i start to think i have no choice to replace the dam maf, what do you guys think ?

Oh and also want to mention that after all this i reseted the ECU once again, car did the warm up 2krpm for emission control and then went to 700 like normal, went for a couple pulls as the car seemed to run nice and got max boost readings of 23psi at 3rd gear, actually felt like i could get some more but didnt want to wot it completely.

I went to fill up the car gas after all this and had to shutdown the vehicle, it ran perfectly and had excellent boost readings without any spikes whatsoever so i dont think i have a leak.

Started up the car again after fillup and it would start to idle bad again, small popping sound coming out of exhaust from time to time and got cel, also didnt even do the warm up 2k rmp and instantly dropped to 700.
i stopped in my driveway and the car would have a bit of a bad idle and dediced to just unplug the maf, the car didnt seem fixed but the idle was a bit better.

What do you guys think ? the car is still working properly even with the cel on, if id take the car for a run with maf plugged or unplugged it would be running good anyways.
Should i clear the leak issue at this point and buy a new maf directly ?

Any help appreciated before im sure its the maf, ty !
 

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Buy a new maf and a new oem filter. What tune are you running? Sorry if I missed this before hand.

From my electronic gismo- Galaxy S6
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Buy a new maf and a new oem filter. What tune are you running? Sorry if I missed this before hand.

From my electronic gismo- Galaxy S6
Car has a BSR stage 3 tune, i have eurosports full catback without the resonator and downpipe.
 

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What is the code? I know you said MAF code, but we need a specific code number. Also fuel trims would be nice and O2 readings.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
I forgot to take the sheet back with me when we got the codes read, ( zzz ) i cannot say which code it is but it was MAF related, high possibility that it is the maf since the car runs properly with it unplugged. I know there was a 2 in the code...

It might be this one P0102 -- ECM-121D -- Mass air flow sensor -- Signal too low

I will however call my mech back tomorrow to be sure that was the proper code, i am almost certain though and already ordered a new maf alternative suggested from another member ( bosch part 00C 2G2 048 for hyundai kias ), i could see scratches on the middle sensor which wouldnt go away even with maf kleen and slight rubbing with q-tip, either that or when i mistakenly sprayed it with brake cleaner killed the maf.
 
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