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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2006 s60r automatic. 145,000 miles

Recently Ive been getting the check engline light with that message appearing, so i took it to my indy mechanic. He said it was the starter (which was really bad anyways), and so he fixed it. Car starts up fast now, but the light came back on shortly after i drove away. So he pulled the codes and couldnt find anything wrong with it.. honestly, the car seems to work great and has a great amount of turbo boost. Just had oil changed today too.

Any other ideas what it could be or why im getting this? or should i just reset the battery or whatever to turn the CEL off? Ive basically had all of the routine matinence stuff done to it a while ago.. the CEL turns on sometimes as i drive. Then when i shut it off and come back to drive it the next day, i dont get a light for maybe 2 days, then it comes on again for a bit and goes away. Its the yellow triangle light, not red. Any ideas?
 

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Starters don't cause check engine lights EVER. You don't want a mechanic working on these cars, you need a Technician. They are not the same. Unplugging your battery will not clear a ECU fault. You need a shop that specializes in Volvo and maybe they have VIDA and can do a scan. Without fault data its just a guessing game as to why a certain light is on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i pulled the codes and it read that any one of these could be an issue:
vacuum hose loose, cracked, or defective
throttle body loose, cracked, or defective
MAF sensor dirty or defective.

Assuming they need replaced, are they easy and cheap fixes? Car doesnt even seem like it has an issue though, everything runs great.
 

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How old are the codes? You might clear them and check again in a day or two.

Vacuum hose - very cheap and easy to repair, no matter where it is. Pay my postage and I'll send you 10-15 feet. I bought too much blue 6mm a few years back.
Throttle Body - clean that bad boy. very easy to do. (1) remove airbox, FMIC pipe, then 4 bolts on throttle body and a plug, possibly one other clamp, clean it thoroughly with soft wire brush and TB cleaner, reinstall. Oh, new gasket too.
MAF sensor - I'd do this last, this one is expensive compared to the others. $238 or so, last time I checked, for replacement, though you can try cleaning first. But honestly without taking it apart, you can't really get in there to clean the sensor. If it's gunked up, it's surgery for a chance at fixing. There's a how-to on swedespeed from around 2009.
 

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i pulled the codes and it read that any one of these could be an issue:
vacuum hose loose, cracked, or defective
throttle body loose, cracked, or defective
MAF sensor dirty or defective.

Assuming they need replaced, are they easy and cheap fixes? Car doesnt even seem like it has an issue though, everything runs great.
What were the code numbers? That will narrow it down a bit
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I just went to autozone and had them pull up the codes real quick. They gave me a piece of paper that says:

Troubleshooting P0101
Definition: MAP(Man. absolutepressure)/BARO or MAF(Mass air flow) / VAF(Vane air flow) sensor condition..
Probable cause:
1. Vacumm hose off, cracked, or passage blocked - engine mechanical timing condition
2. Throttle body intake tube loose, or cracked
3. BARO(barometer)/MAP(manifold absolute pressure) defective
4. VAF(vane air flow) MAF(mass air flow) sensor dirty or defective

Thats all the paper says
 

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Obviously check all intake connections from Mass Air, Turbo, Throttle and intercooler pipping for leaks. Oiled Air Filters such as K&N are known to foul Mass Airflow sensors. With just OBDII data code and no live data its hard to say exactly but I've seen a few failed mass airflow sensors in the last few months, one just last week.

Edit. Appears ODB Fault P0101 is a Mass Airflow Circuit Range Fault. Can be caused by air leakage. If you have no air leaks, I would start with the Meter and if you have an oiled air filter, ditch it asap. This is of course internet diagnosis and without actually looking at your car, it can be a gamble as to what is exactly wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks. Yeah i have a K&N air filter but i never over oil it or anything.
I know the part is like $200, but is a MAF sensor something thats quick to replace?
 

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MAF is easy to replace, but not cheap. Unless you want to be buying one regularly you might want to go back to a paper filter. Going to have a hard time oiling the K&N enough to keep dirt out of your engine without it also failing your MAF. The thin film sensor used in the R seems much more sensitive to fouling than the hot wire systems used in other cars that tolerate them.

Also need to find a new independent mechanic. Hopefully you really needed that starter if it was turning over slow, but the rest of your information makes it sound like he's not competent enough to be working on your R. He should have been all over those check engine codes, not you and us on the internet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
off subject, but how has your R been holding up with that many miles? I only ask because mine has about half the miles are yours and it seems like Ive had to replace a bunch of stuff.
 

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off subject, but how has your R been holding up with that many miles? I only ask because mine has about half the miles are yours and it seems like Ive had to replace a bunch of stuff.
Well I have probably $12k+ in receipts from mile 0-275k from the original owner. Almost all of it for routine maintenance... AG reseals, plugs, belts, filters, fluids. The only things that are deteriorating are the headlight lenses (pitted, chipped), windshield (pitted), front bumper (too many scrapes to do anything but replace), needs coils sooner rather than later, and one of the HU knobs is on the fritz. Aside from some door dings it's pretty solid. My interior is pretty good for 288k. All I have done so far is a wheel bearing, transmission & upper engine mounts, strut bar mounts, tires, a battery, and rear shocks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
yeah just wondering
i got mine at 135k and have had to replace engine mounts, timing belt, water pump, both front struts, starter, and other small stuff already within 10,000 miles of owning it. Im guessing the guy who owned it before me didnt take good care of it?
 

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All those things you listed are pretty much regular maintenance at your mileage, aside from the starter. The previous owner probably took good care of it and sold it before it gave them even more issues. These cars are not known for their longevity without assistance in the form of CASH or CREDIT.
 
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