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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey everyone so my car is throwing a bunch of those like engine service urgent brake failure stop urgent um and a bunch of other similar codes and then shuts off 5 to 6 seconds after starting...the speedo an odd tacometer don't work I've tried resetting the battery and I checked all the brakes and vitals, everything looks good, any ideasl
 

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hey everyone so my car is throwing a bunch of those like engine service urgent brake failure stop urgent um and a bunch of other similar codes and then shuts off 5 to 6 seconds after starting...the speedo an odd tacometer don't work I've tried resetting the battery and I checked all the brakes and vitals, everything looks good, any ideasl
How old is your battery? You might want to get it tested, I had a bunch of random crap happen when mine pooped out. Autozone and such should offer free testing, that would be a good place to start
 

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cca = cold cranking amps.

i doubt he needs it since OC, CA usually does not get snow
 

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How old is your battery? You might want to get it tested, I had a bunch of random crap happen when mine pooped out. Autozone and such should offer free testing, that would be a good place to start
+2
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So I got the battery checked out and recharged, and its still in good condition...its a few months old so I would have been surprised if anything was wrong with that. After they recharged it, it started up and it ran fine for about 2 minutes (left it in place) and then the windshield wipers came on and same error messages. Turned it off, tried to restart and same issues as before. Also, ran an OBDII test and came up with codes:

P0725 - Engine Speed Input Circuit
P1719 - ?
P0600 - Serial Connection Link

What is code P1719 - anyone know?

Thanks in advance

Also had a rough idle, not sure what's up with that
 

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could be MAF. i see in your sig you have "external intake"?
have you removed the MAF and sprayed it with some cleaner?

from a quick google of P1719:
P1719 Skip Shift Solenoid Circuit

Which is part of the Automatic Gearbox Range of codes.

It's suggested that it's the Auto Control Module (Auto ECU) that will need looking at.
 

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Could it even be the PEM module? I had to have mine replaced (for free because it's under warranty due to a recall and so should yours). My S40 shutdown similiar to this--while I was in traffic. Luckily, I could still pullover and steer but a few minutes later, the entire car shutdown. I also got immobilizer info messages, so if you got those as well, I'd suspect the PEM module.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'm about to get some MAF cleaner. Seems like its fairly dirty on the input side so hoping that's it.
My car is eligible for the PEM recall, but they'll only cover it if the inside is corroded; and being in CA for the last 110,000 miles, I don't think that's too likely and neither do they. They said it may be an ignition module or TCM software update, both of which seem excessive since I've never had a problem till a few days ago and it happened so suddenly. Any other ideas? Am I on the right track here?

Cleared all the codes and going to get the MAF cleaner. Here's to hoping
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
MAF cleaner didn't work. The car started the first time, but was still throwing codes and the tach wasn't working. Also tried it with another key per the dealer's recommendation, same issue. Here's what I'm greeted with at idle:

The only error I was getting is P0600, which according to the internet: "The PO600 is from a communication problem between TCM (transmission control module) and the ECM (engine control module)."

Is there any way to check the connection? Could there be a loose connection/loose wires, or is one of them fried?
 

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So I got the battery checked out and recharged, and its still in good condition...
The fact that the battery needed to be recharged in the first place makes me think that the alternator died. If you have a multimeter, you can check the voltage on the battery with the car on, it should be like 14V or more.

I think a few people have also had similar issues when the battery terminals got corroded. Can you check the battery terminals and nearby wires for corrosion?

You could also disconnect and blow out any debris that might be in the ECU connector. Check for any water damage or rusty pins in the connector while you're at it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The fact that the battery needed to be recharged in the first place makes me think that the alternator died. If you have a multimeter, you can check the voltage on the battery with the car on, it should be like 14V or more.

I think a few people have also had similar issues when the battery terminals got corroded. Can you check the battery terminals and nearby wires for corrosion?

You could also disconnect and blow out any debris that might be in the ECU connector. Check for any water damage or rusty pins in the connector while you're at it.
Thanks for the reply. I believe the alternator is running, as the car was staying on when I started it the first time. I'll see if I can track down a multimeter though. And I actually cleaned the ECU connectors and the battery terminals while doing the MAF, figured it couldn't hurt. Everything looked fine in there so no go. Do you know where the TCM/ECM are?
 
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