2 weeks ago I went to the store, came back out and started the car. I was greeted with "reduced engine performance" in the DIC and an EXTREMELY rough idle, as well as the throttle not working at all.
I shut the car off, started it again, and all was well.
1 Week ago I parked the car on Friday after work, went to go out to an appointment Saturday morning, and had the exact same issue. Except restarting the car didn't work. And after a few restarts the check engine light came on as well. The car feels like it's running on 2 cylinders and will not move when you hit the gas. Had it towed to me mechanic and they told me there was a hose loose that connects down by the firewall..I guess to the throttle body. I picked up the car and everything was fine.
This past Sunday morning I went to go out again and had the EXACT same problem. Drove the car the night before with no issues. Had it towed again. Called them today and they said the car drove off the flat bed under it's own power and has been running and driving ever since. No codes stored in the computer.
Any idea what the issue could be? I asked them to check the grounds before I pick the car up but I really don't need this happening to me far from home where I will be stranded. So far I've been lucky. But yeah some sort of electrical issue seems to be the only possibility to me.
EDIT: Doing some GOOGLE FU and it seems to be either the ETM has failed or I also found another post about the crank position sensor being an issue.
Youtube videos seem to confirm that you can still rev the car with a failing ETM.
Symptoms of CPS problem are hard starts. Which occasionally I do have to crank longer than normal. Jumpy tach, which occasionally I have noticed the tach jump around when I crank the car. Also I have cranked the car to start the engine and once I let go of the key the car shuts right off. Starts normally on the second try. Most importantly it supposedly won't throw a CEL
Perhaps even more importantly, when I first got this car I had a similar issue where I couldn't go over a certain mph and would get random reduced engine performance messages. Not really a rough idle though but perhaps some breaking up when the engine revved. And when I brought it to the shop they have noticed that the CPS bracket had broken and so the sensor wasn't reading right. They ordered a new sensor but the bracket had been revised. It was a huge job to replace the bracket so they just repaired the old one with epoxy I think. Whatever they did I haven't had another issue until now. I can't believe I forgot about that! Anyway I'm hoping it's that and this issue can be resolved quickly.
I shut the car off, started it again, and all was well.
1 Week ago I parked the car on Friday after work, went to go out to an appointment Saturday morning, and had the exact same issue. Except restarting the car didn't work. And after a few restarts the check engine light came on as well. The car feels like it's running on 2 cylinders and will not move when you hit the gas. Had it towed to me mechanic and they told me there was a hose loose that connects down by the firewall..I guess to the throttle body. I picked up the car and everything was fine.
This past Sunday morning I went to go out again and had the EXACT same problem. Drove the car the night before with no issues. Had it towed again. Called them today and they said the car drove off the flat bed under it's own power and has been running and driving ever since. No codes stored in the computer.
Any idea what the issue could be? I asked them to check the grounds before I pick the car up but I really don't need this happening to me far from home where I will be stranded. So far I've been lucky. But yeah some sort of electrical issue seems to be the only possibility to me.
EDIT: Doing some GOOGLE FU and it seems to be either the ETM has failed or I also found another post about the crank position sensor being an issue.
Youtube videos seem to confirm that you can still rev the car with a failing ETM.
Symptoms of CPS problem are hard starts. Which occasionally I do have to crank longer than normal. Jumpy tach, which occasionally I have noticed the tach jump around when I crank the car. Also I have cranked the car to start the engine and once I let go of the key the car shuts right off. Starts normally on the second try. Most importantly it supposedly won't throw a CEL
Perhaps even more importantly, when I first got this car I had a similar issue where I couldn't go over a certain mph and would get random reduced engine performance messages. Not really a rough idle though but perhaps some breaking up when the engine revved. And when I brought it to the shop they have noticed that the CPS bracket had broken and so the sensor wasn't reading right. They ordered a new sensor but the bracket had been revised. It was a huge job to replace the bracket so they just repaired the old one with epoxy I think. Whatever they did I haven't had another issue until now. I can't believe I forgot about that! Anyway I'm hoping it's that and this issue can be resolved quickly.