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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Very quickly: The car hazards blinked all night, now nothing, nada, when went to go get started and used. This is so frustrating, it ran fine up until now.

I will check the battery voltage, if it's dead I will throw my healthier battery in there as it will be clear that one can't hold a charge, but. Could it be an alarm issue? If the hazards blinked all night, would that be enough drain to make the battery dead if blinking for 6 or more hours, maybe 12?

I did set off the alarm the last time the battery was low, is there a procedure beyond unlocking the door to turn that off? We need a reliable car.
 

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Did you get the hazards to turn off at all? Sounds like you set off the alarm somehow. They should turn off when you hit the unlock button on your fob, or (I believe) when you unlock the door with your key. Yes, hazards on all night would be enough to drain the battery. Try your other battery and trickle charge the one that died
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Did you get the hazards to turn off at all? Sounds like you set off the alarm somehow. They should turn off when you hit the unlock button on your fob, or (I believe) when you unlock the door with your key. Yes, hazards on all night would be enough to drain the battery. Try your other battery and trickle charge the one that died
I appreciate you very much. I did in fact trip the alarm a few days ago (Saturday) in jumping the car before we drove it. I never did lock and unlock the driver door 5 times. My car has lost the remote lock/unlock fob.. everything I read says only a trip to the dealer (with a 4-button) will program it to the car, and I have no idea how much that will cost.

I also like and echo your idea about using the charged battery while the other one charges.

I'm on my way to the vehicle now.
 

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your lights were on all night, car won't start

Step 1: is dead battery, any other discussion is fruitless until thats' dealt with
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
your lights were on all night, car won't start

Step 1: is dead battery, any other discussion is fruitless until thats' dealt with
I agree. That's the first thing I looked at, where the battery was at. So, I took my DMM: Readings, as follows...

Battery in the car, as I walked up to it: 4.85V
3 or so minutes later, not yet disconnected: 5.04V

5 or so minutes later, out of car and before charger: 9.04V
2 or so minutes after that: 9.24V

Hooked up TO CTEK MXS 5.0, Recondition mode. After about 5 minutes after getting to stage "3": 13.04V
5 minutes after that: 12.7V
About 5-10 minutes after that, just before walking away from the CTEK to let it "work" on battery until Friday morning: 12.48V

I plan on seeing what the voltage reads 5 minutes after disconnecting it from the CTEK, and an hour after, etc. What should those readings be?

Hopefully, a new battery is not needed. If it is, that one will be exchanged for an H6 of recent manufacture.

Of interesting note, she says the Hazard switch (that is right in front of the gear select) is so sensitive and worn out, that the hazards sometimes come on while driving. She believes they were left on after she shut the car as two or three people told her they were blinking all night until car dead when I walked up to it. Cheapie solution may be to pull the fuse that controls that, is that feasible?

The battery is on the charger until Friday A.M. Locks oiled, doors confirmed fully shut including rear hatch, proper operation of alarm is said to be blinking red light center of windshield when armed, we know the horn functions... Lock and unlock door seems the disarm in the absence of the key fob. Quick question, will locking the door from the inside and then shutting it upon exit interfere with the alarm in any way, even if the cylinder on the outside stays in the horizontal not vertical orientation?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
She tells me the hazards come on while driving and that it's the switch being soft and accidentally touched when the car is put in park. I may try to re-create this, by pressing the hazard switch and then shutting and locking the car after it is off to see if I see blinking. Should that be able to occur?
 

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Well your battery was dead, simple enough. Either it will take a charge or it won't, just have to wait and see. Having it load-tested once charged will tell you if it's actually still good or not. Voltage by itself doesn't tell you the health of the battery, merely the charge state of what little life it may have.

Also yep, hitting the hazard switch when you put the car into park is a pretty common thing, most people notice it when they get out of the car though because, well...the car is flashing at them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Well your battery was dead, simple enough. Either it will take a charge or it won't, just have to wait and see. Having it load-tested once charged will tell you if it's actually still good or not. Voltage by itself doesn't tell you the health of the battery, merely the charge state of what little life it may have.

Also yep, hitting the hazard switch when you put the car into park is a pretty common thing, most people notice it when they get out of the car though because, well...the car is flashing at them.
Yes, I would agree with that. And I thank you.. What appears to be happening is that that switch is so soft/sensitive, going over potholes etc triggers it to where the button pushes in just enough that it sets off the hazards, dare I say it, "by itself." Because of this, I think that pulling the fuse for just the hazards could solve that problem.. and thus, multiple problems: No hazards flashing randomly while driving, no possibility of parasitic drain when sitting, making the hazards not function would solve it.

So would pulling the switch out from under the radio... but pulling a fuse is something I'm more comfortable doing.

I do not have the fuse panel in front of me at the moment, I am readying myself for tomorrow's car visit, where I re-install battery (wish I had a load tester. Must re-obtain) - and solve this super-moves-freely-when-it-wants-to hazards switch. The alarm is fine, and we now know it works, lol. But, may I ask which fuse that would be?

Hopefully there is one I can pull that still lets that work, and only disables the hazard flasher switch? (How to make them not flash anymore. Making them not able to flash will solve the problem, of course the blinkers will still work.) *The battery on the CTEK was also sitting at Stage 6 this morning, out of a possible 8. CTEK MXS 5.0.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Removing the hazard function seems like a really bad idea...
Maybe try and replace the button so it's not so sensitive?
Ouch - 100 bucks!
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-part...CZ5PTE5OTkmdD14LWMtYXdkJmU9M i00bC1sNS1nYXM=
Excellent! I read it is directly under the radio, and comes out easily. I have to aquaint myself with removing the radio..

I am going to have to see if I can remove it. Watching some YouTube videos now, specifically RobertDIY's. For anyone looking for fuses information: http://new.volvocars.com/ownersdocs/1998/1998_sv70/98sv70_102.htm

Radio removal, for those that may have never done so before, reference.


Hazard switch ordered. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-S70-...300750&hash=item287986b096:g:WgUAAOSwgKpZuTwO
 

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Robert was at Carlisle with his t5r yellow 854 last year. Removing a p80 radio 98-00 is wicked easy. Need code though.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I would try to track down parts from a junkyard - would cost a couple of $.
 

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Very quickly: The car hazards blinked all night, now nothing, nada, when went to go get started and used. This is so frustrating, it ran fine up until now.

I will check the battery voltage, if it's dead I will throw my healthier battery in there as it will be clear that one can't hold a charge, but. Could it be an alarm issue? If the hazards blinked all night, would that be enough drain to make the battery dead if blinking for 6 or more hours, maybe 12?

I did set off the alarm the last time the battery was low, is there a procedure beyond unlocking the door to turn that off? We need a reliable car.
If it isn't too late you can get the switch out without removing the radio. Really the radio wouldn't help. Take out the ash tray. Pop it down then Just pull.

Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
If it isn't too late you can get the switch out without removing the radio. Really the radio wouldn't help. Take out the ash tray. Pop it down then Just pull.

Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk
Oh, you can get to it through the ashtray? I wonder if that's actually harder than "through the radio." I got that out in less than one minute!

Note to anyone that may be wondering: If you take the hazard switch out, the blinkers (that's "indicators" or "turn signals" to some of you) ... will not work. It has to be in. Fuse 13 OR the Hazard Switch disconnected and the blinkers won't work. All it says on that descriptor is "Hazard warning flashers" as well as a couple other things, but, it's blinkers too.

As to the current status.. Verified yesterday that the blinkers will not work if only the fuse is removed (obvious) but, more importantly, that the blinkers will not work if the hazard switch is not plugged in. This particular hazard switch is super extra sensitive and gets set off by potholes and rough pavement. Of course it looked like it clicked fine when removed from the dashboard, but then plugging it back up and letting it hang loose.. set off the hazard flashers. I was able to re-create the problem of seemingly no (read: very minimal) input set the hazards off. So, the solution for the next few days is to unplug it at night as it is hanging just in front of the shifter, so as to not create ANY battery drain or possibility of, and then reconnect just before operating the vehicle. On Tuesday, the part with the 90 Day Certified To Work is coming and I should be able to slip it in (no need to remove the radio again) and that issue should be put to bed. It wasn't even a big deal until the flashing all night drained the battery to 9.04 or 9.24V, thus making the car not start.

So, Tuesday or shortly thereafter, that should be all wrapped up and I can dream about changing the fluids, specifically engine oil and auto trans fluid. Gotta do that too. Drain and fill via the 24mm bolt on the ATF, fun with this on the oil pan bolt. Should come right out with the large one of these though... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MXPRV6/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
 
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