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Car died while driving, suspected fuel pump.

6.8K views 21 replies 5 participants last post by  LizardOfBodom  
#1 ·
...So on my way to work my car decided to give up in the middle of narrow country road. First I noticed no reaction on gas pedal, few seconds later dash lit up with all icons and it started to roll with engine off like a sailboat. Was lucky enough to roll to the only gated field-entrance in vincinity of few miles where it rested in a big pile of mud... Managed to start it just once again but died few seconds later after working on few cylinders only.
Pulled out some generic codes (0087 relating to fuel pressure and few cylinder misfire) had the usual checkup all around and inside (ankle-deep in mud and with heavy traffic 1 meter away from me) and decided to wave white flag.
First time ever in my 20yr of driving I experienced this view.

Image


Quick diagnosis by my mechs: no fuel in rail, bone dry. Immediate suspect - fuel pump or related, as a second thought - PEM maybe?
Its being diagnosed, will update further after I calm down and/or stop crying in the corner :/

Not really looking for any advices at this point, before anything is confirmed, just needed to vent out as I feel depressed :(

thanks
 
#2 · (Edited)
UPDATE1 - ok so got a call from my mechs, they are yet to test the pump by short-circuiting it and see if its physically working, but all signs so far turns to pump itself.
some info:
- fuel pump FUSE is ok - I checked. Is there a fuel pump relay maybe that may be worth checking?
- pump was always loud as hell and sounded bad. Ever since I got the car.
- FPS was replaced 1.5 years ago, still have the old piece (that was working but throwing out engine code) so I can double-check its not the issue but as I replaced it with genuine unit I hardly suspect this an issue
- PEM is in the cabin of the car probably since new (never heard of relocation programme in EU so I have suspicion it was there since new or relocated by service before car was sold? I am thinking its not likely its PEM
- if I am right and its confirmed its pump - there are like 5 or 6 available just for my cvar VIN number, even using the part site provided by kazman in S40 fuel pump thread just yesterday... how can I confirm its the right one?
- volvo dealer can get "the right one" for 340e. For such price, assuming its the pump, is it worth to search for replacements/used ones or just bite the bullet?

will update further, but at this point now (depression level +10) your feedback is appreciated... :/
 
#3 ·
Personally I'd buy the new Volvo unit. You'll spend the difference in aggravation just finding another, sounds like. I would definitely not install a used pump.
 
#4 ·
When you buy a 'fuel pump' it's actually an assembly of fuel related components, not just a pump. The actual pump motor can be swapped fairly easily between units (just make sure you get the turbo unit) but you will need to replace the special crimped on fuel hose with standard fuel injector line hose. Not a problem it's just something worth noting. You can't buy just the pump, you've got to get the assembly new. So... If you want a cheap fix, get a used unit (low mileage) and pull the motor and swap it into your old assembly. Reason I say that is because Volvo changed the pump assembly around over the years based on emissions coding, turbo vs non, wiring etc. it's a pain trying to find an assembly that match yours (used) and the pumps are generally interchangeable between t5 engines. This is what I've figured out so far, but I'm not an expert so ymmv


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#5 ·
Thanks for the feedback. Yes, I noticed the variations between pumps and tbh I feel like its out of my league by miles. On top of that - it will be hard/impossible to find used fuel pump around here so I think at this point - the safest bed is to leave it up to dealership. Called them with reg and chassids, they said how much and how long, if its wrong - then its on them.
to my understanding, looking at pics from Vida

Image


I am getting pump assembly that is beside number 11, that looks like this , right?

My mech called me saying the power is coming out of PEM to harness going to pump, but pump cant start even when trying to force it. Also said something about burned out connectors under the car leading to pump and said it all looks like it was fiddled with before. Recommended trying to get the harness aswell (NOT the PEM harness but the 30-40cm one that goes from pump to upwards the car, from my understanding? Is that number 10 on the diagram?

SO whats gonna happen now, - I will order pump tomorrow from dealer, will come from Sweden on 1st week of January, so car will be looked at hopefully 8th of Jan. Should I know anything else beforehand? Or its only praying thats left?
 
#6 · (Edited)
What's the total cost for the dealer to repair/replace? See, on awd models the fuel tank is a nightmare to get to - gotta cut the exhaust, remove the propshaft, take off exhaust shielding, and then drop the tank. Not a savory job.

Well anyways... make sure you pray to the Norse gods
 
#7 · (Edited)
What's the total cost for the dealer to repair/replace? See, on awd models the fuel tank is a nightmare to get to - gotta cut the exhaust, remove the propshaft, take off exhaust shielding, and then drop the tank. Not a savory job.

Well anyways... make sure you pray to the Norse gods
Not gonna even ask dealership, no point, will quote me in thousands, literally....
my guys are cheap, thats atleast a good thing. If anything, worth a shot with them.

..although have to say, I will think it over trough the night...

Had last chat with them before closing - Its not "burned" but there is some patching on the wires going from PEM to under the seat, like it was cut and re-soldered. Not sure if its OEM or from service call or or what, but its not a nice isolated bunch of wires but a bit of a tangled mess. (EDIT - its the 30724564 wiring loom from the car's sticker. the only part I was able to confirm, atleast...) They also tested with probe, there is power going from PEM to pump when power is on and some wires are active when you try to start with ignition so looks like its doing what its supposed to.
As i said - pump was always loud, like REALLY loud, plus I had the ever-lasting CEL related to fuel delivery ever since I had a car but never was able to troubleshoot it... I think it finally gave up... :(
 
#8 ·
Personally, I'd try everything fuel related before the pump. It's such a pain and it's expensive. But that's me and I haven't done the diagnosis. Just know that the fps or pem could also cause a no fuel situation.


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#9 ·
Personally, I'd try everything fuel related before the pump. It's such a pain and it's expensive. But that's me and I haven't done the diagnosis. Just know that the fps or pem could also cause a no fuel situation.

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Yes, you are right. FPS is no problem to check, have second one to test anyway. Not sure how to test PEM though?
 
#12 ·
Most Likely they Placed the Wrong Fuel Pump in as that's what came when they Thought they Ordered the Proper one
so they made do. They Installed Wrong and You are Now Left to Correct it all .. Fast & Dirty Shops - Grabbing what they could . .
 
owns 2009 VOLVO V70 3.2S
#13 ·
Actually, that brings up a good point. When I installed an incorrect fuel pump (learning pains) it not only had different wiring but it also made a loud sound, like it was working too hard. It could be that a previous shop did that to your p1 (?).
 
#14 ·
Interesting observation. I guess I will find out in few weeks, as I will make sure they keep the old one and loom just for me to see. Its possible that car was "home fixed" before, previous owner that I bought it off had no earlier history record either. So basically first 10 years and 85k miles of cars life is a mystery. Wouldnt be surprised if someone was just cutting the corners to save on costs...
 
#15 ·
FWIW I've had to replace both OEM and aftermarket fuel pumps on older BMWs. On those cars the fuel pumps go into a sort of carrier/bracket within the fuel sender itself (level sensor). As a result, the pumps basically just come w/ flying leads that need to be crimped/soldered on to the original wiring. So, not entirely sure on Volvo obviously, but the solder/crimp job may be standard issue depending. However, on typical port injection cars, a loud fuel pump is definitely a sign of either inferior parts or failure (performance fuel pumps withheld).
 
#17 ·
Update about my case:
I ordered the whole loom and pump just before Xmas, today finally got them from dealership.
3079278 Fuel pump and 30724564 wiring loom (took the number of the loom from car itself). Definitely not a cheap xmas present (440Eur all in) and thats just before labour rates :/
My mechs are back on Monday so car wont be dealt with before that time anyway. In the meantime I am preparing myself mentally for any other issues they might encounter including issues with taking the tank out and putting the diff and exhaust back in... My guts are telling me it wont be a nice disassembly-assembly job and feeling actually pretty anxious about that whole operation....

BTW I actually woke up few nights ago in the middle of a night wondering, if new pump by any chance doesnt need to be programmed in with veryexpensive volvo software ? I dont recall anyone mentioning that so I am leaning towards the straight swap case, but can anyone please confirm that so I can sleep better ? :) thanks
 
#18 ·
No, it doesn't get programmed anymore than a fuel injector gets programmed. it's just a pump and it produces hydraulic pressure based on the amount of voltage that is supplied. But, that's why the PEM exists - to give the pump instructions.
 
#20 ·
Update.
So car is back and driving. The cause of the issue was indeed related to fuel pump, but wasnt the pump itself. What happened, was the connector from loom that goes to fuel pump itself, had already been tampered with before - either cables tore or someone botched repair, but it was defo something done to it. Cables from that plug were then touching and tearing versus the body and within time created the loose connection and broke off completely as the result. Hence my "fuel pump dead" issue.
It would all be much easier if car broke this year or much earlier. As a bad luck with me, always, it broke down the same day when my mechs were closing before xmas break for 3 weeks so they only diagnosed it by testing from inside of the car and wires and didnt have time to disasembly anything. I ordered the parts to allow them 2week delivery time and not to wait until mid-January. Today, they started to disasemble the rear and thankfully, before tearing&cutting anything, they managed to properly double-check wiring and pump with tank just dropped a bit. That revealed torn cables and allowed quick and inexpensive fix without actually dismantling anything. All down to bad timing, 3weeks garage clousure and me having no car for daily 100km comute so it was a bit chaotic....
AAaanyway.
All seem ok for now. If Im lucky, Volvo will accept parts back (special order, non refundable as per invoice) if not, I will have a very expensive paper weight. Missed this car a lot, have to say - forgot how nice it is to drive.

As a sidenote - just before discovering the issue, they called me actually asking if Im ok to cut the hole on the floor to gain the access to fuel pump from the cabin - they were sure that would allow them to replace pump without cutting exhaust and disassemblying anything. Didnt happen, thankfully, but I would say yes to that. Anybody did or thought of doing it that way? Is there anything that would prevent this approach from being succesful?
 
#21 ·
It'd have to be a big hole (at least 10x10") and you'd have to be able to put something back over it; otherwise, you'd have potential gas vapors entering the cabin and/or a fire hazard in the case of an accident. All in all, yeah that's a bad idea unless you can make an access panel that secures back down. Glad to hear it was just wiring. As pzceilon always reminds the forum, fuel pumps are not known to go bad on these cars. And I believe him.
 
#22 · (Edited)
As pzceilon always reminds the forum, fuel pumps are not known to go bad on these cars
...so are the OEM waterpumps, hello Lizard's luck, welcome to my world ;):p

It'd have to be a big hole (at least 10x10") and you'd have to be able to put something back over it; otherwise, you'd have potential gas vapors entering the cabin and/or a fire hazard in the case of an accident. All in all, yeah that's a bad idea unless you can make an access panel that secures back down. Glad to hear it was just wiring.
Yep. With more thorough testing it would have been concluded earlier aswell but as I said - just a bad timing. Im still worried a bit what exactly was done with it earlier before 85k mark, and if the pump that is in will live happily ever after or not (that noise it have been always making is still there, obviously) but this is a very expensive part and labour to be do "just in case" i reckon so fingers crossed I can recoup my losses and keep on driving with current fix...
As for the panel - from my understanding their plan was to either weld or seal it back in so if done correctly I think it could have worked. Seem a bit less invasive to me than botching exhaust, removing diff and tank etc but maybe Im wrong. Cant understand why there is no revision hole in the first place, like on most cars......