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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
already got some pegs on there now, a bit scuffed and one is slightly bent, thinking of using them for winter. Front rotors are on the way out, if not there already. Also getting a bit tired of the firm bilstein ride, maybe switching to koni's will help.<p>so here are the choices, and help is appreciated.
 

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Since you already have wheels and your car is already lowered, I would say, go the route of replacing the rotors and pads. I hope you save yourself some money, and do them yourself. <p>Maybe you could just paint your pegs to get rid of the scuffs, I say black!
 

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Re: (Bender)

are you asking about safety vs. appearance???<br>I would do the brakes first thing. It's not cool to have nice rims if you rear end someone because your brakes suck.
 

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Re: (miha11)

I'll trade you - you send me your shocks you don't like and I'll send you a fantastic set of OEM 16" wheels (you can even have the tires...)<br><IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/smile.gif" BORDER="0"><br>
 

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I hope you understand that the koni shocks are cartridges, and will need a bit of custom fabrication. The OEM struts have to be cut, and the konis be put in and welded. It's not going to be as easy as the bilsteins that are simple replacements.
 

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Re: (cmurphy2266)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>cmurphy2266</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I hope you understand that the koni shocks are cartridges, and will need a bit of custom fabrication. The OEM struts have to be cut, and the konis be put in and welded. It's not going to be as easy as the bilsteins that are simple replacements. </TD></TR></TABLE><br>You are making it seem <U>alot</U> more difficult that it actually is. There is no welding, the only tools you will need is a hack saw and a drill. It only took my mech an additional 30 mins because it is only the fronts which are inserts. For any competent mechanic this is easy stuff. By no means should it be a reason that prevents you from purchasing the shocks <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> .
 

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Re: (cmurphy2266)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>cmurphy2266</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I hope you understand that the koni shocks are cartridges, and will need a bit of custom fabrication. The OEM struts have to be cut, and the konis be put in and welded. It's not going to be as easy as the bilsteins that are simple replacements. </TD></TR></TABLE><p>Welded? The instructions make no mention of the inserts having to be welded.<p> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/confused.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: (Turbos60)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Turbos60</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><br>You are making it seem <U>alot</U> more difficult that it actually is. There is no welding, the only tools you will need is a hack saw and a drill. It only took my mech an additional 30 mins because it is only the fronts which are inserts. For any competent mechanic this is easy stuff. By no means should it be a reason that prevents you from purchasing the shocks <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> .</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Well ... that answers my question.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Re: (spiked60)

thanks for the offer but i must decline, i already had a set of 16" oem wheels and sold them. I did look at the instructions for the koni's, pretty much the same thing other than the fact u have to saw off the top of the strut and drill and hole and screw into the bottom(only the fronts).
 

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Re: (miha11)

1-Brake maintenance<br>2-Black out the Pegs (Powder coat/rattle can)<br>3-KW coilovers ;-)!
 

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Re: (miha11)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>miha11</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it kinda seems i'm the only one hot and bothered over those ipd vms wheels?</TD></TR></TABLE><p>cool wheels, but they are black. black kills the definition the wheels ever had(especially from a distance)<p>on top of being black, they are 7.5" wide, and dont allow for a BBK to fit behind them.
 

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Re: (Turbos60)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Turbos60</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><br>You are making it seem <U>alot</U> more difficult that it actually is. There is no welding, the only tools you will need is a hack saw and a drill. It only took my mech an additional 30 mins because it is only the fronts which are inserts. For any competent mechanic this is easy stuff. By no means should it be a reason that prevents you from purchasing the shocks <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> .</TD></TR></TABLE><p>The problem with how the instructions describe it, there is 1 bolt holding the assembly in. Granted you can use thread lock, but, just for instance, what if that bolt backed out?
 

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Re: (cmurphy2266)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>cmurphy2266</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p>The problem with how the instructions describe it, there is 1 bolt holding the assembly in. Granted you can use thread lock, but, just for instance, what if that bolt backed out?</TD></TR></TABLE><br>The insert has bumps on the side of it for a interference fit. Meaning once you get that sucker in there with a rubber hammer its snug as hell and aint coming out. The bolt is very large and requires threadlock and proper torquing. It is perfectly safe, my mech has done hundreds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
impulse, they are actually 8" wide and are not black they are "hyper black" (w/e that means) but they look more like a stainless steel colour than black. <p>Rotors, i don't need to upgrade probably for a while, they just starting now to get a little vibration(ie. getting warped). I was mostly thinking of an upgraded rotor and pad, something like EBC rotors and akebono euro pads, or EBC Red stuff pads.
 

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Re: (miha11)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>miha11</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">impulse, they are actually 8" wide and are not black they are "hyper black" (w/e that means) but they look more like a stainless steel colour than black. </TD></TR></TABLE><p> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vortexmediagroup.com/images/banghead.gif" BORDER="0"> wrong on all aspects, and now that i have seen a closer pic of the hyper black, they look damn good. butttt they still weigh 26 pounds <p>im an oz ultraleggera fan <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/tongue.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
i too am a fan of the ultraleggera's but at around $500 CAD here, they quickly lose me as a fan.<p>I'm just waiting to see if anyone on here got a set on their S60(R) to see how it looks.
 
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