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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2004 V70 2.5T, and am contemplating doing some of this work myself, most of which I have not in many years or not at all.

a) new rotors and pads all around, including upgrading to SS brake lines
I am only really concerned here about having to replace the caliper brackets and the brake lines, neither of which I have ever done. If it were just new pads and rotors, I think I'd be fine. I've bled brakes before, years ago, and am sure I could figure that out from a web tutorial or post here on Swedespeed.

b) shocks and struts on all four corners - have never done it, but understand it involves using spring compressors and unbolting/rebolting stuff, so it didnt really seem all that challenging

c) engine tune up kit (spark plugs, fuel and air filters)

To get all this stuff done at my independent will run me about $600. I'd love to save the money. But sometimes its worth it to pay someone to do the job right if there is a high risk of "complications". Any thoughts?
 

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Replacing your shocks/struts comes with the strong suggestion to get an alignment afterward. You can't do that.
Personally, I do a lot of work myself, but I have a tire shop for the tires/wheels and a suspension shop for the brakes/suspension/alignment.
 

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You can do it. Spending that $600 on tools will save you 10x that much over the rest of your life.

There is nothing particularly scary or complicated about the jobs you're talking about, they're just like most other cars. Springs can be dangerous but if you just be careful you'll be fine. My compressors have safety pins that trap the coil so it can't pop off, got 'em from sears for $40.

The $50 motive power bleeder is an absolutely awesome tool, makes 1 man brake bleeding a breeze.

I highly recommend the Akebono brake pads, they're almost zero dust and they took about a week to break in but now they bite like crazy. If you smear a super thin coat of the grease they include all over everything (except the friction surface of course) you'll get zero squeaks too. And I bought zinc plated rotors last time I did brakes, and I love them. Looking through my wheels the parts look brand new still.
 

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If your indie is willing to do all of this for $600, and you have not worked on one of these before, I would advise going for it...not a bad price at all.
 

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Don't buy spring compressors. Autozone has a deal where you rent them for the day, if I remember its like 40 bucks, and when you bring them back they give you your money back.
 

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Plugs, filters etc... if I can do it, anyone can! Do the brakes/rotors yourself, have the shop do the suspension right after, and have em check your work! That oughta save ya half. Agreed, you will need an alignment.

Life is a compromise.

Other thing is, do you have another vehicle available when you do this work... just in case?

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I actually wound up taking it to an independent shop...its actually a tires/wheels/suspension shop but they do mechanical too.
Ran into a couple of snags - I was sent some wrong parts and then had to spend 20% extra to get the right ones through the shop. Sucks.

Then a couple of service issues; the mechanic didn't tighten down the nut on the rears well enough so it was banging around and generally making a hell of a noise/thud over every bump...took it back the next day and they tightened it up.

Also I had brought a new fuel filter (which I bought along with all the rest of the parts from) and told them to install it because I couldn't find it. Well when I picked up the car they had charged me for installing it, but there was a fresh fuel filter unused in the parts box. So I was like, what happened here - surely this cannot be my old filter? And they looked at it and agreed, yep, thats a new filter....so it turns out I dont have an external fuel filter in the first place, mine is inside the tank - apparently if you have an aluminum tank, you have internal filter, and if you have a plastic tank then you have an external filter....the mechanic said there is no way to service the internal filter short of removing the entire gas tank from the car and its a big expensive job that you would never do...so it must be some kind of a lifetime filter. Not sure why they charged me for it, but they refunded that part.
 

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Really internal filter? I have yet to own a Volvo that had one like that. Your filter is under the passenger seat outside the vehicle. Go to your passenger side rear door. Bends over and get on your back and look up, as if you were looking at that passengers butt. Lol, its right there

Sent from my HTC Sensation using Tapatalk 2
 

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I actually wound up taking it to an independent shop...its actually a tires/wheels/suspension shop but they do mechanical too.
Ran into a couple of snags - I was sent some wrong parts and then had to spend 20% extra to get the right ones through the shop. Sucks.

Then a couple of service issues; the mechanic didn't tighten down the nut on the rears well enough so it was banging around and generally making a hell of a noise/thud over every bump...took it back the next day and they tightened it up.

Also I had brought a new fuel filter (which I bought along with all the rest of the parts from) and told them to install it because I couldn't find it. Well when I picked up the car they had charged me for installing it, but there was a fresh fuel filter unused in the parts box. So I was like, what happened here - surely this cannot be my old filter? And they looked at it and agreed, yep, thats a new filter....so it turns out I dont have an external fuel filter in the first place, mine is inside the tank - apparently if you have an aluminum tank, you have internal filter, and if you have a plastic tank then you have an external filter....the mechanic said there is no way to service the internal filter short of removing the entire gas tank from the car and its a big expensive job that you would never do...so it must be some kind of a lifetime filter. Not sure why they charged me for it, but they refunded that part.
Huh WTF! Your fuel filter is external. Look where 'burgh told you to look.
 

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thats what it looks like, and here whats a 162000mile one looks like with the crap pushed out of it!!



you might need to find someone else to do this work for you. Things like this make me MORE motivated to do my own work. It sucks when you pay "pros" to do it and they freaking have no clue, then they feed you bull on top of it.
 

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lol too funny - bad mechanics. yeah easy to change the fuel filter but be sure to depressurize it first by running car w/o fuel pump fuse in place (actually remove fuse once started). then you can remove & will get less fuel sprayed in your general vicinty

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