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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am planning to buy a fully loaded 2010 XC90 V8 R from a Non Volvo dealer. The car has 32K miles and is very clean. It has 18k/2.5 Yrs of original Volvo warranty remaining.

Do I have the option to buy the Volvo 6yrs/100K warranty from a Volvo dealer or that option is not available to me since its not a CPO car? If yes, how much should it cost and is it a good idea? I am not interested in 3rd party warranty.

I am not sure what to expect from Volvo V8 in terms of reliability. Your advice will be very helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
We are buying this car sight unseen from a Dealer 500 miles away. They will have the car driven over to us. We have already put a small deposit on it. ITs costing us 34K + T /TL /R
For the past month or two, I have tried very hard to find a similar CPO but could find one that met our criteria.

I would love to get some advice from all the volvo owners and experts here.
 

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If that engine compartment is as shiny and clean as it looks in the photos, complete with amoral on the intake boot run away from that car! Look a few post down about the V-8 CB club. Otherwise if the engine has the normal think film of dust then it is probably a good buy. I do not think you can purchase a CPO warranty, it is offered as a result of the car being inspected and brought back to Volvo CPO specs by a Volvo dealer. However there are some third party companies that will sell you a service contract up to 120K and 6-7 years should cost about $2500. With all that said I would not worry to much about it. I personally would put about $1500 away every year in a bank account until you get to about $10K as a general maintenance fund. However, the vehicle is a good car and should prove to be reliable. Also, are you sure it is an R?
 

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It's an R-Design, not an R.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Thanks raymansean and acools for your responses. I appreciate your help.

Here is what the Carfax says:
Vehicle Information:

2010 VOLVO XC90 R-DESIGN
4 DOOR WAGON/SPORT UTILITY
4.4L V8 PFI DOHC 32V
ALL WHEEL DRIVE


It us indeed an R Design, not R (I did not know the difference) -

raymansean: I tried to read and understand the CounterBalance Shaft failure thread, but couldnt really understand too much from it. How do you mean if the engine bay is as clean as it appears in the picture? Wouldn't a dealer have the engine bay cleaned before trying to sell the vehicle? How should it be? Besides, since the vehicle is 500 miles away, I cannot see it, but am banking on the fact that since its covered under the Volvo 4yr 50K warranty, I should be fine - but I am open to your suggestions as I dont want to end up making an expensive mistake.

I plan to get an extended warranty from Volvo similar to CPO (I understand that it wont be CPO, but i am sure that Volvo sells some similar warranty for its customers who bought their volvo new and need extended coverage) - I just don't know how much will it cost.

Please tell me about your concerns about the CB issue and what should I do to preempt that ?

Everyone: Please feel free to advise
 

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The best coverage for your Volvo will be the Volvo VIP Exclusionary warranty. There are other warranties out there that cost less but may not give you as comprehensive coverage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Would you have any idea, smjcarz, how much should that cost?

We are expecting twins within this week, so I know that I definitely do not want headaches related to maintaining the car. My current car, which I am trading in, was a 2006 BMW 330Ci with full CPO warranty. Even though we did not really use much of that warranty, it was a big peace of mind - specially since it had only done 1900 (hundred) miles when we bought it......

I would love to hear more about the clean engine compartment comment....
 

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The best thing to prevent CB issue is not to get the engine wet, no steam cleaning, no off roading through deep mud-holes that may splash water all over the engine compartment. The V8 is a 60dgree V8, not the typical 90 degree V8 thus it suffers from not being inherently balanced and must use a Counter Balance shaft to dampen the vibration. The counter balance shaft driven off the timing chain and is supported by two sealed bearings located in the valley of the V. In 2005 when the V8 was first offered in the XC90 there was no drain to allow water/ condensate etc to drain from the center of the valley which initiated rust and premature CB bearing failure, with a high incidence of severe engine damage. Volvo released some documents stating to NOT clean the engine compartment and they also modified the block slightly to incorporate a drain where the CB shaft lives, starting in late 2005. So a 2010 will have the drain and perhaps better bearings (there was some rumors that Volvo changed the bearing spec also, although I do not know if anything has been officially released) so there is little need to worry. In general I think is is a bad idea to have anything attached to the timing components (especially if the engine uses a chain instead of a belt) that are not internally lubricated, thus most of us on here are hyper vigilant about warning people like you and also not tempting fate by keeping our engine compartments as dry as possible. Also you should be warn that at least on the earlier V8 XC90's the torque rating for the transmission matched the torque capabilities of the engine, there is no room for comfort. The V8's do seem to suffer from more transmission issues than the 3.2's however if you keep the fluid clean (there is no dipstick) by changing it every 50k miles you should be ok. You reading critiques of a great vehicle and I would not hesitate to buy another V8 XC90, you just should be aware of what could happen. I think the the XC90 V8 is by far more reliable than the BMW X5 (no I have not owned an X5, but I left BMW for Volvo over BMW's decline in quality over the past two decades), or a MB GL### (MB reputation for quality has also taken a hit over the past decade or so). I would expect that one of the Japanese imports would have less issues over the life of the vehicle, however they do not have near the safety ratings as the XC90. The XC90 is one of the safest SUV's on the road. If the price is right and you are confident that it has been taken care of, then buy it and drive it.
 

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It is NOT a R-Design. It's an Executive. Which is also pretty rare. The last year of the V8 Sport/R-Design was 2009.

You cannot CPO the car, but you can buy a VIP (Volvo Increased Protection) warranty. Contact University Volvo in NC. They've had good prices on these in the past.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The best thing to prevent CB issue is not to get the engine wet, no steam cleaning, no off roading through deep mud-holes that may splash water all over the engine compartment. The V8 is a 60dgree V8, not the typical 90 degree V8 thus it suffers from not being inherently balanced and must use a Counter Balance shaft to dampen the vibration. The counter balance shaft driven off the timing chain and is supported by two sealed bearings located in the valley of the V. In 2005 when the V8 was first offered in the XC90 there was no drain to allow water/ condensate etc to drain from the center of the valley which initiated rust and premature CB bearing failure, with a high incidence of severe engine damage. Volvo released some documents stating to NOT clean the engine compartment and they also modified the block slightly to incorporate a drain where the CB shaft lives, starting in late 2005. So a 2010 will have the drain and perhaps better bearings (there was some rumors that Volvo changed the bearing spec also, although I do not know if anything has been officially released) so there is little need to worry. In general I think is is a bad idea to have anything attached to the timing components (especially if the engine uses a chain instead of a belt) that are not internally lubricated, thus most of us on here are hyper vigilant about warning people like you and also not tempting fate by keeping our engine compartments as dry as possible. Also you should be warn that at least on the earlier V8 XC90's the torque rating for the transmission matched the torque capabilities of the engine, there is no room for comfort. The V8's do seem to suffer from more transmission issues than the 3.2's however if you keep the fluid clean (there is no dipstick) by changing it every 50k miles you should be ok. You reading critiques of a great vehicle and I would not hesitate to buy another V8 XC90, you just should be aware of what could happen. I think the the XC90 V8 is by far more reliable than the BMW X5 (no I have not owned an X5, but I left BMW for Volvo over BMW's decline in quality over the past two decades), or a MB GL### (MB reputation for quality has also taken a hit over the past decade or so). I would expect that one of the Japanese imports would have less issues over the life of the vehicle, however they do not have near the safety ratings as the XC90. The XC90 is one of the safest SUV's on the road. If the price is right and you are confident that it has been taken care of, then buy it and drive it.
Thanks raymansean. Having been a part of Passatword and Bimmerforum in the past, I know that the best and most unbiased info can only be had from like minded enthusiasts. Thank you for your detailed reply.

I am about to pull the trigger - but since its from a non volvo dealer - I just called in a Volvo dealer to check on the pricing of VIP exclutionaly warranty and if he could tell me of any issues with the vehicle based upon the Vin # of the vehicle via his system. Waiting to hear back from him.

I have no idea if this particular dealer cleaned the engine bay by washing it, but if i was to guess, I would say, he did .....

Anything else that I should look at / check regarding the vehicle ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
It is NOT a R-Design. It's an Executive. Which is also pretty rare. The last year of the V8 Sport/R-Design was 2009.

You cannot CPO the car, but you can buy a VIP (Volvo Increased Protection) warranty. Contact University Volvo in NC. They've had good prices on these in the past.
njb, thanks ! I just called the dealer and spoke with AJ. He said someone will call me back within the hour with the info and pricing. I am hoping they can look up the Vin # and give me some more info on the vehicle.

This is very helpful ! Thanks guys !!!! :)
 

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If you can find wet pavement or a dirt road, disable the DSTC (you have to hold the button for a few seconds) apply the brakes rev the engine to about 2500 rpm and release the brakes, you should take off very smoothly with no wheel slippage. If the wheels do slip then you AWD is not working correctly. Get them to put it on a lift and look for signs of body work, cracked CV boots, all the normal suspects. I find it strange that a 2010 is sitting on a non-volvo dealer's lot (I guess a trade in is possible, but to keep a car 2.5 years seems a little suspicious, a lot of depreciation just to drive a newer car perhaps they traded in because they could not afford payments, and got another used car with lower payments... Just trying to reason why a 2010 is for sale and not sitting on a Volvo lot CPO'ed). Pull the oilstick, look for deposits/ varnish on the stick, the oil could have been changed so clean oil does not mean anything. Look in the engine compartment, are there any wires that suggest modifications? Does it go down the road straight with someone following you? Paint over-spray? You know all the normal things you look for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ray, that was my concern as well: why a non volvo dealer..... looking at the CARFAX report - the vehicle was bought by a Fleet Management Co upon import to US from Sweden - It was then sold to a Bently Dealer (perhaps as a trade in?).

The next entry shows the current Chevy Dlr then bought it and offered it for sale (they told me they bought it at auction) - So I really dont know why did it not end up with a Volvo Dlr for CPO, but its possible that at the selling price at the auction, it was not worth adding CPO costs and hence it went to a chevy dlr. If this was CPO at this cost, i wouldn't have waited this long to research...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The fact that its still under original warranty - for another year and half / 18K miles makes me feel better about going ahead.

I wish I could find out more about this vehicle via a volvo dealer vin # check....
 

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You should be ok. You may want to run a auto check report, it may have different info than carfax. Seeing that you are in DC, hang in there tonight and tomorrow.
 
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