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1998 V70 T5 with factory m56h; 18t, Green injectors, 50% e85
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looks like I will be having my m56h rebuilt at 167,000 miles and I'm considering using the original DM flywheel. The clutch was replaced 10k miles ago and it's an R clutch. Works???
 

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Won't work
 

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1998 V70 T5 with factory m56h; 18t, Green injectors, 50% e85
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you. So either stick with the SM and re-use the R clutch, or get a '98 V70 clutch and use with the DM, correct?
 

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You're running a singlemass flywheel and 850R clutch right now? Then just re-use it.

What do you mean about getting your trans rebuilt? The only available aftermarket part for them is the bearings or the diff, otherwise you're looking at using a used box for gear packs etc...
 

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1998 V70 T5 with factory m56h; 18t, Green injectors, 50% e85
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The early diagnosis is bearings and diff, but will find out more tomorrow.
 

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1998 V70 T5 with factory m56h; 18t, Green injectors, 50% e85
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

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I put a quaife in my C70, super easy to do and while spendy, worth every penny. No torque steer at all and no more one wheel peel.
 

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What is the car doing to warrant that diagnosis? I'd say just leave the hardware that you have as is. For what reason do you want to go back to DM?

I'll second the Quaife recommendation. Though honestly, now I'm craving a Gripper.

Also be careful on the sealant! I believe the Volvo pink anaerobic is the wrong stuff. It should be sealed with gray or black RTV sealant. It looks like that was what Volvo used from the factory if you take apart a gearbox.

There is a lot of conflicting info about what people have used. Personally, I did use the pink stuff about a year ago and it is holding up fine. However, the pink stuff was designed to mate two precision machined pieces together like the head and the cam cover. Supposedly the joint between the transmission case halves do not have as close of a tolerance, so the RTV sealant fills in the imperfections better and takes up more space in the gap than the pink stuff would. The pink stuff allows the case halves to be slightly closer together and could affect the spacing of the clusters.

Good info here on page 2 and 3: http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/169720-m56-internal-external-woes/?page=2
 

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The pink stuff can seal wide gaps but my Volvo mechanic recommended using the Volvo angle gear sealant which is designed for gearboxes. I figure either will work fine, but since he had the stuff on hand I used the angle gear sealant.
 

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1998 V70 T5 with factory m56h; 18t, Green injectors, 50% e85
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I just ordered the Quaife from England.
 

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Sweet. I recommend buying new bearings and throwing them on, because removing the bearings from the old diff is pretty tough without advanced tools and a press. Putting new bearings on is just a matter of heating them up or using a press or both.
 

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I used the pink stuff on my M56H, not a drip. I hate using RTV, there is always some seepage.

If both side are machined aluminum, I use the pink stuff.

If one side is stamp steel and one side is machine aluminum, rubber gasket or RTV goes in.
 

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Sweet. I recommend buying new bearings and throwing them on, because removing the bearings from the old diff is pretty tough without advanced tools and a press. Putting new bearings on is just a matter of heating them up or using a press or both.
Yes. New bearings. I payed a gentleman to press on new diff bearings, and pull off and press on a new input shaft bearing. The outer races are easy to replace yourself for all of those bearings because you can get at them from behind to punch them out since there are holes in the case.

Might as well replace the axle seals and input shaft seal, too. It seems like no one talks about replacing the input shaft seal, but why not if you're in there? I did.

Let me know if you need assistance with the install. I learned a ton from a select few threads, but of course there are some unknowns until you really get in there. It really wasn't that bad of a job.
 

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1998 V70 T5 with factory m56h; 18t, Green injectors, 50% e85
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for the info and for the offer of assistance. All the work is being done by a trans shop. Remember, I'm not just having a Quaife installed, the whole thing is being rebuilt, including replacing the bearings throughout, and I believe gears if needed as well. (I don't know where he is sourcing, but that's what he said.) The last time rsterns and I replaced the long (passenger) axle about 18 months ago, I'm almost positive we put in a new seal. Same for the input shaft seal when the clutch was done a year ago by my Indie shop guy.
 

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Thanks for the info and for the offer of assistance. All the work is being done by a trans shop. Remember, I'm not just having a Quaife installed, the whole thing is being rebuilt, including replacing the bearings throughout, and I believe gears if needed as well. (I don't know where he is sourcing, but that's what he said.) The last time rsterns and I replaced the long (passenger) axle about 18 months ago, I'm almost positive we put in a new seal. Same for the input shaft seal when the clutch was done a year ago by my Indie shop guy.
Yes indeed we did the axle seal.
 

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Thanks for the info and for the offer of assistance. All the work is being done by a trans shop. Remember, I'm not just having a Quaife installed, the whole thing is being rebuilt, including replacing the bearings throughout, and I believe gears if needed as well. (I don't know where he is sourcing, but that's what he said.) The last time rsterns and I replaced the long (passenger) axle about 18 months ago, I'm almost positive we put in a new seal. Same for the input shaft seal when the clutch was done a year ago by my Indie shop guy.
Other than some bearings/seals, no other parts is available. No shift fork pads, no gears, no synchro, nothing. I'd ask for ALL replaced parts back to see what he actually replaced.

 

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My .02c
Several years ago I drove a highly modded Yellow 850R 5 speed manual that was for sale and had wound up in my area, some of you may remember that car.
I drove it with the boost "turned down" to only 20 lbs!
That R had a Quaife diff. I had never driven a Quaife equipped FWD car before.
Anyhow to test it, I did a 90 degree low speed turn in 1st gear and punched it before I was straightened out and was amazed! It just dug in and barely twiched the front wheels and flew!
This thing had some serious HP
 

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1998 V70 T5 with factory m56h; 18t, Green injectors, 50% e85
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Picked up the car today. The "slack" or "bob" is all but gone--it's a million times better. But shifting into 1st is nearly impossible at times. Have to quick shift into second or third to get it in. According to the shop owner, they started with a new core m56h and replaced hubs, synchros, bearings, shims and forks, but as I said, something is not right with first. Fortunately, it's a reputable shop. Will have to follow up next week.
 

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Does the clutch engage really low to the floor? Does it shift into first easily with the engine off?

These would be symptoms of the clutch not quite bled enough yet. You have to almost overfill the reservoir to make sure the clutch doesn't suck air, it has a partitioned reservoir inside the main reservoir.
 
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