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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I replaced the rear left caliper on the car about a year ago because the emergency brake assembly inside was stuck. It would not do anything. The cable pulls fine, the spring loaded arm just didn't want to turn.

So I replaced it, with an ATE model, and now the exact same thing is happening. I can hammer the e-brake assembly arm in, and it will catch the rotor, but it is a bear. The cable just isn't strong enough to move it. It's almost like it has seized inside.

I'm just curious if I'm missing something, or if anyone has experienced this. I think it is weird it happened to the same side twice now, but the other side is fine.

Like I said, I testing the cable, and it pulls and works fine.

Thanks!
 

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THREAD REVIVAL!!! (Browsing previous pages, too much spare time...)

I have the same issue, RL handbrake lever is seized, RR is all fine!

I had to pry it back out with a long screwdriver, and managed to bust up the "shielding" on the inner wire. So now I need a new set of wires aswell... :(

Temporary fix is:

- Jack up and unbolt wheel.
- Unhook the handbrake wire.
- Tuck it away somewhere it doesn't snag on other moving parts. (I ziptied it back around itself!)
- Off with the handbrake boot, tighten the nut on the lever. (13mm!)
- Test the function of handbrake in a downhill. Adjust further if necessary.
 

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I recently has my cable snap, no parking brake at all now. Funny thing is that I found that it broke right at the caliper on the left side. But no parking brakes at all now means it was broken on the right side as well at some point in time?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Mine ended up being a bad refurb'd caliper. I replaced it soon after this and it's been fine ever since.
 

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Mine ended up being a bad refurb'd caliper. I replaced it soon after this and it's been fine ever since.
My caliper is bone original. Brake fluid has been regularly changed also...

Curious if the Focus has the same issue?

Have you made sure that the caliper itself slides well on the guide pins?
The guide pins shouldn't be an issue, as the handbrake is a cable that pulls a separate lever on top of the caliper body itself...
 

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The guide pins shouldn't be an issue, as the handbrake is a cable that pulls a separate lever on top of the caliper body itself...
I know that but then the disc brake is only in contact with the inner pad? I've always assumed the caliper to slide during parking brake operation

Sent from my LG-D852 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My caliper is bone original. Brake fluid has been regularly changed also...

Curious if the Focus has the same issue?
They do go bad. If the handbrake mechanism isn't functioning, then it's obviously an issue with the caliper assembly. Assuming the cable moves when not connected to the caliper.

You could try to rebuild it, but it isn't worth the hassle imo when units are so cheap now. My brake fluid was changed every 30K/3yrs and I still had issues.

Grab a reman. unit. I did and mine was an ATE. I don't think the focus part fits, but can't 100% confirm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Didn't want to make a new thread because it is still emergency brake related for a caliper.

Here's a video of a new (to me) remanufactured caliper for the rear right. Should the e-brake lever arm move this easily. (I removed the caliper e-brake springs to move the lever arm easier) The rotor doesn't even stop when it's moved. Halfway through the video, I show the rear left, and that e-brake springs back and stops the rotor when it is turned.

The problem I have is that the rear right tire drags and doesn't spin freely. When I play with the e-brake lever, it seems to reset and then spin.

Am I missing something? Or is the reman'd rear right caliper bad? Nothing special has to be done to set the e-brake, right? Finally, just out of curiosity, does anyone have a blown up picture of the inside of our calipers?

https://youtu.be/rLrL6jm4RyI
 

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Yep that's bad...Both of mine have springs that take a full hand of force to move and then they spring back.

I do new brake hardware kits as well and replace all the boots and everything, and then fill with silaramic brake grease as needed.

The Ebrake is only the ratcheting mechanism in the handle, the wire, and the pullers on the calipers. Cable stretch is important to setting the ebrake correctly, but otherwise, it should function normally after that. It's a mechanical arm that pushes the piston into the disc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for confirming! I was pretty sure the mechanism shouldn't move that easy, and should bounce back to the "back" position. Also, the fact that I could move it and it didn't stop the rotor, further proved an issue.

I guess I got a bad reman'd unit. It was from FCP so I'll just tell them the issue and get a new one. You think they would check the e-brake function!
 

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I agree, looks bad. The only "setting" for that lever is to actuate it several times to move the piston from it's fully retracted position out to the proper depth to actuate the pad when the cable is pulled.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I replaced the faulty new caliper with another new caliper, and can confirm that it was a stuck e-brake on the caliper causing the issue. Not sure why, but the e-brake was always engaged and couldn't fully disengage.

Make sure you test the mechanism's function before installing! It'll save you a lot of time and frustration.
 

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Save the Planet - Lobbist - LOL

Years Back when all the Recycling Efforts were being done & a few Laws etc.

It seems all The Auto Dealers - Couldn't Jump on Band Wagon Fast enough to get Rid of Good Old Body Coatings .
Good Old Rust Proofing - which in Many Cases is Plain Old Oily Wax - or just Plain Hard Wax . Auto Dealer went way out of there way to
Remove Grease Fitting before this , and in few cases Improved Items , but then they Used this to make Inferior Parts that either Gulled or Had
Electrolysis set Up in the Part ! ( Failed Early ) - I Don't Own the Auto Industry My Life , I don't Own the Unions a 135 Hr. Living !

Ford has No Dam Brakes worth a Poop .. even on their Sports Cars or High Performance Vehicles - They use someone else Brand like Brembo .

Are there Bronze Pucks or even Brass Plated Pucks being used inside the Calipers ( LOL ) NO !
Not even Dual Shielding . . or Double Sealing O-Rings in many Applications . . Ford, Chevy , GMC , Volvo - once Ford got a hold of them went to **** !
BMW , Land Rover and Other are all Falling to Pray of Greed . .


Further The Rear Calipers have Little Air Vents Built into the Seals - that are Meant to Keep Out Grit & Slat Water _ Haa !

Really If the Design of Brake Master Cly. Isn't Strong Enough to Pull the Pucks back in - Then they Drag - If it Design is so Weak that the ABS system
Requires Air Vents on Seals - so the Pucks will Return - then there is Something Wrong with the Design . .
( Hey I have a Great Idea ) Lets Add Larger Air Vents so the Pucks Retracts even easier - Hell with Salt Water & Grit . .

( Hey Better Yet ) Lets Not use Bronze or Brass - Lets Use Aluminum on Aluminum - make Sure They Gull Up Real Quick !
Hey You Think the Ford Boardroom - Stock Shares will Go Up ?

I Think the Auto Unions Should be Sued - with - Class Action Suite - Bring Human Life & Safety & Planet - into the Equation !

Certainly 3-4 yr Life Life Span on Auto Transportation or 5-7 yrs on Truck - is - Way Far Away from 18-20 Yrs. these Vehicles Easily Lasted - just 30 Yrs. ago ..

By the Way Wilwoods Calipers have SS Pucks & Dual O-Rings Seals - No Air Vents on Out Dust & Water Seals . . That said It seems _ Much Care
Must be Taken to Grease Pucks at Least every 2 yrs. & Full Fluid Change Out also ..
Today Cars must be Keep in Humidity Controlled garage . .

Planet Resources to make 1 million Auto's - Compared - 500K Units as - If they Lasted Twice as Long or Parts went twice as Far . .
Wilwood Pads were all worn out in 21K - My Last set of Brakes on CC Went 65K and the Rotors were still good enough to just Add Pads . . that is
Basically how it should Go !

Light Weight Rotors - of an Alloy have been Made _ Cooled Well and Pads to Last 80K -100K Min. are a FACT ! ( They are Being Used )
NOW - Lets Look at the Side of the Roads & Add up 35 Years of Brake Dust , Backing Plates - Rusted Parts - Plastic Parts and Ton , & Tons of Crap all one the Highways . .
( Yes Human Life , Planet Life , Health Safety )
 

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I'm a mech engineer student. I see 400 pages of wiring in a 07 non technical no gizmo filled car and I scream yo. They have made a car so complicated to just maintain and use. Had less problems with a 1970's C20 3/4 ton truck that was family owned and it was a lot technically dumber with a lot less circuits. Seen new cars on factory floors with 1.5mm sheet Stamps. Asked how Vw found out min weld number for spot welds. They said the minimum it takes to pass DOT. Never buy a Monday VW that's when shift changes. Aluminum thermally is a horrid material no wonder it fails. WTF. Disposable car at not disposable prices.

Never had a cable issue with brakes. Had to get one rebuilt once years ago.
 
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