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CAI Thread

126K views 559 replies 108 participants last post by  chris@swedespeed 
#1 ·
Supplemental pre-filter Cold Air Intakes ( CAI ) group buys available again

To purchase one, please see thread in classifieds, http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=83377

NEW NEW NEW
Version 2.1 of the custom scoop is here:


Fits right in fog grill and held in place with no cutting, truly a "drop-in" part





It is a tight fit, and you have to work to align it, but the clips do push in and attach properly. The flange overhang by the fog-light keeps it from getting pushed back in.

New and improved version of Passenger-side R Kelly Ram-Air CAI kit includes:

Custom made R specific high density polyethylene offset duct seen above
3' section of double walled (smoother air flow) high-temp neoprene hose
2" Aluminum outlet with flange perfectly sized to fit in snow valve hole
2 stainless steel clamps


New driver-side R Kelly Ram-Air CAI kit includes:

Centered 3"x7" high density polyethylene offset duct seen above
6' section of double walled (smoother air flow) high-temp neoprene hose
2" flanged Aluminum outlet
2 stainless steel clamps


Snow Valve Removal

prongs you have to press in in order for it to drop out


Invisible once installed - here with fog grill removed


Need to look real close with direct light to see hose...




Fog Light grill modification. US spec is very soft plastic, razor blade cuts like butter. If you open outside grill on Eurospec, use dremel or exacto knife.

Top - US Spec
Middle - neccessary for mod
Bottom - opening outside is for aesthetics

Fog light grill removal - (highly reccomend IPD / volvo bone tool)


Quote, originally posted by Mike02z »










Installation instructions

You can use snow valve hole or cut new hole off to the side, both work and have their own advantages.

Snow Valve Hole Option:
Open airbox
Remove filter (reccomend switching to BMC, K&N or J&R at this point)
Pop the snow valve out pressing in 3 prongs
Remove "keyhole" air dam with dremel or just cut vertically and bend back and forth, will break off at crease. Technically not necessary, but you will only feed about 7% of filter if you don't. Still a decent increase, since that 7% currently it isn't getting any air.
Drop aluminum outlet into hole
Put the clamp on the hose
Connect hose to outlet that is sticking out the bottom of air box.

Auxiliary Hole Option (only reccomended for MTs, GTs may have gear linkage conflict)
Same as above, but cut 2.25-2.5" hole as seen here



Not as critical to remove keyhole air dam with this option, but that 8% still isn't getting used unless you do.

***NEW INFO***
Saucy and paul_the_programmer figured out an ingenious way to install without removing the airbox.
1. You "screw" the neoprene hose down through key hole or new 2" hole you cut, it and route it out the fog light area once you screw most of it down.
2. You should have about 12" sticking out front, you can then rotate hose from fog light area to continue to screw until hose goes out bottom of airbox.
3. Reaching underneath airbox, slip clamp onto hose, and rotate hose opposite direction and feed back up through hole. .
4. Install outlet in hose, rotate hose back just enough until outlet sits flush.
5. Reaching underneath, slide clamp up and tighten.

Voila!
Here are comments from paul...

Quote, originally posted by paul_the_programmer »
That was it - the above process literally took me 5 mins to get the hose routed. And like I said, I think the biggest benefit is it seemed like I have a really smooth hose route, there were no sharp bends in the hose at all. I read somewhere about 'prebending' the hose - I didn't need to that at all.

If you would rather remove airbox, here are some tips from DE V70R.

it has a little trick to it. works cold or warm.
once you have the 3 main bolts that hold the airbox down, have taken off the solenoid on the side, taken off the MAS sensor wire and loosened the clamp just behind the MAS
then just grab and lift straight up on the front of the airbox. lift is straight and the MAS pops easily out of the hose it is in. install is just reverse of this


Remove fog grill starting with outside top, bone tool really helps here
Open slits if you have US Spec with dremel/exacto knife
Use 2.25" or 2.5" hole saw to cut hole in inner shroud. OPTION: Cut 3 sides of 2.5" square (leave side closest to middle) using some cutting tool and bend shroud out of the way. You can do this if you really want to make it look stock when you sell/return car
Use dremel to grind 2mm off flange of intake and to bore out backside of outlet (give yourself full 2" inner diameter)
Create notches for fog light grill attachment points on intake flange with tin snips, razor blade, dremel, exacto, etc and fit to back of fog light grill while off of car.
Route neoprene hose through hole in inner bumper shroud, place clamp on hose
Insert intake into hose, tighten clamp
Push outlet back in
Replace fog-light grill to secure

There is at least 6" extra hose length, so it shouldn't matter what end you do first.
You should remove extra hose length that you don't need.

You can re-install the valve, that is the beauty of the design.


You are removing the keyhole walls to avoid this situation - all that fresh cold air the turbo loves being funneled into 7% of your air filter.


Top is new additional 21 sq in intake you are adding to the stock 12 sq in intake.


Video of Airbox testing showing vacuum elimination
http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=69428

g-Tech showed 10 HP increase
http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=75708

Stagg's very cool version:





Some pics from baxteR's install





To purchase, please see thread in classifieds, http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=83377

Quote, originally posted by "R" Kelly »
Hey all, found some spare time to post up pics for passenger side install. Have to use a different centered scoop because of the silver cylinder thingee over on the passenger side.



I just trimmed scoop down using dremel and fog light grill as my guide, needs to fit inside of all the connection points and have inside edge cut at an angle.



Only thing different about passenger side is because of centered funnel, I had to dremel/sand down that sharp corner of neoprene bumper (offset on drivers side avoids that step). 30 seconds with dremel.



Same complete stealth when installed.



Some of the routing







I could have used an aluminum outlet and clamp for a cleaner look inside airbox (and all kits will have those), but I just got lazy and pulled neoprene hose into 2" hole created with hole saw.

Here is a different install by baxteR, less stealthy, but a much more direct air flow.

Quote, originally posted by baxteR »
After the install I took her for a test drive and now she really enjoys the 35 degree temp.












Here were the air pressure figures post filter reading from TCV feed (see details couple of pages back), read from left to right, coasting at 60mph, 50mph, 40mph, 30mph, 20mph. Three runs done with each configuration.



Ordering information found in Group Buy Thread
http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=83377

Modified by "R" Kelly at 2:39 PM 11-18-2007
 
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#2 ·
Re: Supplemental pre-filter Cold Air Intakes ( CAI ) group buys available again ("R" Kelly)

Testimonials...

Quote, originally posted by nikhsub1 »
Got mine installed today... no lift, didnt even take the airbox out. I unbolted it, but couldn't get it off the main line. Went smooth. Thanks Kelly!

Quote, originally posted by nikhsub1 »

Yes used a 2 1/4" hole saw for the inner bumper, then made it a tad bigger with the dremmel. Dremmeled off the keyhole, dremmeled the plug for the air box where the keyhole valve went, not a problem. To trim the funnel, i used tin snips, worked like a charm. Got it just to the size where I could get the fog grill back on with the funnel wedged in place. When I started the car up, I put my ear to the fog intake, I could hear the air, you know how it revs high when it is cold? All in all a great inexpesive mod that took about 2 hours.

Quote, originally posted by bcantana »
I installed my kit this weekend. I did it in steps, not all at once. It took about 5 hours total time for me, but I'm pretty anal with details, fit and finish.

Everything worked as planned/advertised.

Some tips after the fact:
- The 2.25 in hole saw is the PERFECT diameter to fit the hose, if I had to do it again, I'd probably pick a 2.5 so that it would be a little easier to get the hose in/out of the bumper shroud.
- Dremel is the ONLY way to go. Get a diamond cutter bit (cost about $14.00, but cut through everything.)
- It was only a couple extra minutes to take the airbox completely out and it seemed to make aligning the hose, working on the airbox, etc. much easier.

To "test" the effectiveness, without the air filter attached (and with the car off) I put the leaf blower on pointed at the stock opening in the grill. I could feel air moving, but nothing impressive. I put the leaf blower in front of the new opening and foglight grill and I could feel the air blasting into the airbox.

I'm sure the airflow at speed is vastly improved and under standing or slow driving conditions is no worse than stock.

I consider it $100 (plust cost of the dremmel, the diamond cutter and some gorilla glue) well spent and a fun weekend project.

Yes, I was one of the folks who blindly signed up for the Evolve one and am glad this option came along instead.

Thanks again to R Kelly!!!
-Ben

Quote, originally posted by JMn »
Thanks to R Kelly! Put this kit in mine about 2 weeks ago and reset my ecu and I have to say my car has never ran better, BSR PPC seems to like this a lot - before intake I got some hesitation under WOT but now just smooth as glass...

Quote, originally posted by bcantana »

Ditto here .... reset the ECU last weekend after installing and my car is FLYING. Hopefully it is not the typical "my car feels great after the ECU reset and then calms down after a few days" syndrome.

If you have ever suffered from inhalent allergies or asthma ...
- Before the CAI, imagine respiratory issues with restriced breathing
- After the CAI imagine 15 minutes after the inhaler kicks in ... free breathing

I think that Jim Lill actually had some quantitative measurements (CFM) from his first version of the mod (too lazy to do a search) and I'd have to say that at speed the system flows much better than stock now. Just a guesstimate though.

I can't say that the air is "much" cooler (on a hot day say 100F coming in as opposed to say 130F under the hood for the HAI type mod) but the availability of the air is improved.

I'm rambling, but that means that I am happy!
-Ben
 
#3 ·
Re: Supplemental pre-filter Cold Air Intakes ("R" Kelly)

R Kelly,

I'm interested but I'm curious if there have been any issues with sucking up water through the cold air intake? Where do I paypal too?
 
#4 ·
Re: Supplemental pre-filter Cold Air Intakes (s40R)

Quote, originally posted by s40R »
R Kelly,
I'm interested but I'm curious if there have been any issues with sucking up water through the cold air intake?

It is impossible to do that, since this is only a supplemental (you keep stock intake).

Stick two large straws in your mouth, put one in a glass of water, the other one into the air - now inhale. You will notice the water doesn't come into the straw.

Also, there is gravity involved since airbox is about 2ft higher than CAI. You even get less mist when it rains through CAI intake than stock intake, as I noted here..

http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=56257

Even if you aimed a water hose into intake while car was running, water might make it into air box, but would be blocked by filter and then drain out the water drainage hole in the airbox.

BTW, there are over 24 people with these on their Rs...

Modified by "R" Kelly at 9:51 AM 8-29-2006
 
#8 ·
Re: Supplemental pre-filter Cold Air Intakes ( CAI ) group buys available again ("R" Kelly)

I started to do this install today when I noticed the large hose just beneath the airbox after I removed the Snow valve. Doesn't this interfere with the adapter placement and the hose? Also do you have to cut away the Keyhole surround?

Thanks,
Pete
 
#12 ·
Re: (Cicada)

Quote, originally posted by Cicada »
has anyone done this on an evolve bumper? how is the 'funnel' held in place with that setup?

i ask because i may be switching to an evolve bumper in the future.

Not that I know of... you would have to get creative... never seen an Evolve front bumper up close.

Personally don't like the look (just me), and the last thing the R needs is to lose the fog lights. Need them to light in front of the car at night after you adjust xenons up so you can see more than 20 ft in front of you.
 
#13 ·
Re: ("R" Kelly)

My idea would be if you have the Mesh inserts for the EVOLVE bumper.....get 4 "twist-ties" and strip the plastic stuff off them so you have just bare wire.....drill small holes in the "funnel" loop the "twist-tie" through the hole on the funnel, then through the Mesh and twist it together a few times, snip it, and tuck it back and around so you can't see it.

Do it at the 4 corners and it should hold fine and the "twist-tie" wire is so small, you you only see it if you were really really up close.
 
#14 ·
Re: ("R" Kelly)

Quote, originally posted by "R" Kelly »


Not that I know of... you would have to get creative... never seen an Evolve front bumper up close.

Personally don't like the look (just me), and the last thing the R needs is to lose the fog lights. Need them to light in front of the car at night after you adjust xenons up so you can see more than 20 ft in front of you.
well my front bumper is pretty trashed, so i was thinking aobut replacing it, as well as the front splitters, which also broke off...but the evolve bumper looks nice [imo] and i wouldnt have to spend the extra money for the splitters, since i was going to replace the front bumper cover anyway.

but if the splitters rubbed all the tiem on stock ride height, i can only imagine when i install my springs...
 
#21 ·
Re: (Tekk)

If peope are dremmeling the keyhole valve area why not just leave the keyhole alone and just cut a separate whole with a whole saw in the bottom of the air box. Seems like it would make things a lot easier/quicker. After dremelling the keyhole inlet you can't reinstall the valve anyway can you?
 
#22 ·
Re: (jazee)

Quote, originally posted by jazee »
If peope are dremmeling the keyhole valve area why not just leave the keyhole alone and just cut a separate whole with a whole saw in the bottom of the air box. Seems like it would make things a lot easier/quicker. After dremelling the keyhole inlet you can't reinstall the valve anyway can you?
Yes you can install the valve... you are dremmeling the keyhole that protrudes upward... if you dont do this, the distance between the keyhole and the air filter is like 2 mm. It literally takes 3 minutes to dremmel the vertical section of the keyhole off.
 
#23 ·
Re: Supplemental pre-filter Cold Air Intakes ( CAI ) group buys available again ("R" Kelly)

Quote, originally posted by "R" Kelly »
Good news! I contacted the shop in Germany, and they sent me some more intakes UPS, so I have 4 more available. http://********************/smile/emthup.gif

Bad news, they sent them UPS worldwide expedited (never requested expedited, gotta love the Germans, so helpful).


Anyways, if you are interested, gotta pass a little of that cost on, price per intake jumped on me from $30 to $45, so total price now delivered to you door if you are in US is $110 (includes paypal charges, shipping and handling)

Is the next batch also at $110?
 
#24 ·
Re: (jazee)

got my car ready for the intake yesterday -- took the fog light grills, cut out the closed parts of the grille, and dremeled out the keyhole yesterday just to get it ready for install.

it wasn't a pretty job (as i did it while i was still in the car -- i was having a problem unscrewing one of hte torx screws behind where the airbox connects to the intake hose, so i couldn't take the whole airbox out).

but it'll get the job done. I can always go back and clean it up later.
 
#25 ·
Re: (jazee)

Quote, originally posted by jazee »
If peope are dremmeling the keyhole valve area why not just leave the keyhole alone and just cut a separate whole with a whole saw in the bottom of the air box. Seems like it would make things a lot easier/quicker. After dremelling the keyhole inlet you can't reinstall the valve anyway can you?

You can re-install the valve, that is the beauty of the design.


You are removing the keyhole walls to avoid this situation - all that fresh cold air the turbo loves being funneled into 7% of your air filter.


Top is new additional 21 sq in intake you are adding to the stock 12 sq in intake.


What it looks like when done (except you get a black inlet instead of blue and 2 ply neoprene hose).


Modified by "R" Kelly at 9:52 AM 8-29-2006
 
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