[LowlyOilBurner]

I’m in my car all day long, and before I fixed it, it seems the problem does get worse as the day goes on. Sounds strange, but true. Having owned a 2016 XC90 Inscription, I can tell you this, the door panels in the XC90 are way nicer than the ones in the Xc60. In fact, my only complaint about the xc60 is the door panels. Definitely “cheaper” than the ones in the XC90.

 

[infiniteloop]

Any tips on the dynamat installation? I have learned how to take the doors apart, but is there anything about the actual placement/installation of the dynamat I should be aware of? The dealer made it sound like a huge trial and error ordeal where they would try to isolate the vibrations. If I do it myself, I plan to plaster the entire door panel with the material.

 

[Ash.1111]

I have the same issue. Been in a few time with little success. They also installed foam in the drivers door.

I am currently away on holidays, but the dealer said they may order a new door panel for me when I get back. Will try to update you all.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mjpc]

For those who are unable to reproduce the problem at the dealer - I can tell you that my speakers need to "warm up" before the rattling/buzzing starts. playing some bass heavy music or the tone test for ~5 minutes will ensure the buzzing will be replicated.

I try not to editorialize, but damn, I'm already fed up with all of the minor problems. Stereo, preconditioning, and trim have all been problematic. I really regret buying this car.

Ah ha... Okay, so that explains why the service advisor heard it after I had driven there, but, when I picked up the car (this was last month, before the fiasco that my car is currently in), the tech didn't hear it when I started the car up after it had been there for a few hours and tried to replicate it right away.

I don't know if I can feel safe in mine - about to go and pick up the car, again... https://forums.swedespeed.com/showt...12V-Error-and-just-got-Towed-No-loaner-either

 

[infiniteloop]

Ah ha... Okay, so that explains why the service advisor heard it after I had driven there, but, when I picked up the car (this was last month, before the fiasco that my car is currently in), the tech didn't hear it when I started the car up after it had been there for a few hours and tried to replicate it right away.

I don't know if I can feel safe in mine - about to go and pick up the car, again... https://forums.swedespeed.com/showt...12V-Error-and-just-got-Towed-No-loaner-either

This certainly puts my issues into perspective. Sorry for your troubles :/

 

[sometallguy]

I replicated the issue for my dealer, showed him that I could stop the noise by placing my finger on the handle. The service writer said he would order me a handle. That was a couple weeks ago, haven't heard anything else from him.

A couple days after I replicated the issue for the service writer I noticed the noise also happens on the drivers side back seat handle...

The nice thing is, now that its colder the issue happens less and less often.

 

[infiniteloop]

Update: after spending 3 days at the dealer, I got a call saying that they can replicate my problem, but the same behavior occurres on 3 other xc60s with the upgraded sound system. They are recommending that I turn down my bass and leave it alone as opening the door panels can be a can of worms. I know for a fact that the call didn't do this previously, and I'm frustrated that there is no resolution after two dealer visits. Has anyone else had luck fixing this problem?

 

[VeeXCee]

.... Has anyone else had luck fixing this problem?

Honestly, I suggest you give up the fight unless you want months more of trying potential solutions. But maybe you have the time for that? Dunno?

I don't have extensive experience with car audio - whether upgrades or high-end stock (just a very good upgrade in my last Acura, including sound dampening in doors). But I do have experience with product part design, and unless there was deliberate focus on part assembly there can always be part vibration due to certain frequencies, UNLESS isolated by design. Volvo did not make this a priority in their door and dashboard design. I have the B&W system and was very disappointed that there was panel vibration even at half volume for both acoustic folk music and electronic music from my USB memory drive media.

And as you have already experienced, the metal grills on the doors can be pressed by hand to reduce the vibration....poor design. There are other parts of the doors and dash that vibrate on my XC60 as well.

After a few years of trying different stereo systems in my home, I have learned that the room acoustics greatly effect the overall sound, and unless you address those factors, even $20k speakers will not mitigate any unwanted resonances, distortions, etc, and I feel that applies to cars too. The environmental factor. Sure, some luxury brands do focus on solving this, but Volvo in 2018 has not solved it, due to the baseline door and dash construction and assembly. So that is why I suggest dropping the challenge to remove that unwanted vibrations. Well, that is my reasoning to date. I just live with it - since it occurs in about 15-20% of the music I listen to.

FWIW, I have run a frequency sweep and can easily get the doors/dash to vibrate even at half volume (mostly passenger side). It was just a way for me do validate that I was not hearing things/going crazy/being overly anal. I am not going to try to resolve the issue.

So that $3200 B&W Audio system is only recommended if you have some funny money to spare, especially considering the limited formats and media music source availability. It sounds very good 75-80% of the time.

 

[infiniteloop]

I don't want to spend months fixing it. I don't even want to deal with Volvo anymore. I feel like my best bet is to find a reputable car stereo place and have them try to settle the vibration. My big concern right now is to make things worse and to lose the new car feel with panels being removed.

 

[savolvo]

I have posted before the solution to this problem. Lower the windows, lift top trim of the door panel from the outside towards the inside of the vehicle, apply double sided thick tape under the lifted door trim, put back together. Job done. Vibration is limited to only 1% of the songs I am listening to.

 

[mjpc]

Update: after spending 3 days at the dealer, I got a call saying that they can replicate my problem, but the same behavior occurres on 3 other xc60s with the upgraded sound system. They are recommending that I turn down my bass and leave it alone as opening the door panels can be a can of worms. I know for a fact that the call didn't do this previously, and I'm frustrated that there is no resolution after two dealer visits. Has anyone else had luck fixing this problem?

So, basically, they're saying you're better off putting an old portable AM radio in your car, and just listening to that? That's a horrible answer. If the other vehicles have the problem, it's still a problem. Quantity doesn't make it acceptable. My XC90 has the problem (as well as tons of others, it's been back at the dealer for over 2 weeks, 51 days so far and counting), but, that rattle is annoying when it's happening. It detracts from the audio experience, after all, that's what marketed to us, is the experience (especially when you go with the Bowers and Wilkins). A door rattle shouldn't be something that's acceptable - either they need better tolerances, or, need to insert some padding between components that cause this.

Tell them to file a ticket or send it up the chain.

Have you tried going to another dealer? You may want to do that, and also send an e-mail off to Customer Care and have them start a ticket. If you have a recording you could send them, attach it (or post it on YouTube or some other site, and give them the information, or, even send them to this thread). Or, if the dealer still refuses, talk to Customer Care and let them know you would like them to reimburse you to have the problem fixed by an audio shop since the Volvo dealer is incapable of fixing this problem, which should be a warranty repair.

 

[sometallguy]

My dealer ordered me a new handle and replaced it a couple weeks ago. Doesn't seem to be an issue any more but... it happens more when its warm out and its pretty cold right now. So I won't be totally sure its fixed until summer.

 

[infiniteloop]

Can you give me an idea of how much of the door trim needs to be propped up? Does the entire top part of the door panel need to be pulled from the outside towards the inside of the car? And can you tell me approximately where and how much double-sided tape you used?

 

[infiniteloop]

So, basically, they're saying you're better off putting an old portable AM radio in your car, and just listening to that? That's a horrible answer. If the other vehicles have the problem, it's still a problem. Quantity doesn't make it acceptable. My XC90 has the problem (as well as tons of others, it's been back at the dealer for over 2 weeks, 51 days so far and counting), but, that rattle is annoying when it's happening. It detracts from the audio experience, after all, that's what marketed to us, is the experience (especially when you go with the Bowers and Wilkins). A door rattle shouldn't be something that's acceptable - either they need better tolerances, or, need to insert some padding between components that cause this.

Tell them to file a ticket or send it up the chain.

Have you tried going to another dealer? You may want to do that, and also send an e-mail off to Customer Care and have them start a ticket. If you have a recording you could send them, attach it (or post it on YouTube or some other site, and give them the information, or, even send them to this thread). Or, if the dealer still refuses, talk to Customer Care and let them know you would like them to reimburse you to have the problem fixed by an audio shop since the Volvo dealer is incapable of fixing this problem, which should be a warranty repair.

To their credit, this dealer actually took a lot of time to look into the problem. The first dealer I took it to said "no fault found" and tried to get me to leave, then they were dismissive and said it doesn't seem like a big problem to them when I replicated it. But yeah, despite the second dealer's good customer service, they are advising against taking things apart out of fear that things will get worse and that the problem appears to occur on any car with the B&W sound system, not just mine. They reduced my bass and subwoofer down to the middle range (I like them at about 75%) and suggested that a call to Volvo could be made if I'm still not happy.

At this point I just want the problem fixed, and I feel like I need to take it to a reputable stereo shop to get it addressed. That said, I'm seriously, seriously let down by Volvo's lack of quality control. I will be writing their customer service a letter to express my displeasure. It won't fix my problem, but they need to know that they have lost a customer and a brand representative as a result of what is, in all likelihood, a trivial fix.

 

[mjpc]

To their credit, this dealer actually took a lot of time to look into the problem. The first dealer I took it to said "no fault found" and tried to get me to leave, then they were dismissive and said it doesn't seem like a big problem to them when I replicated it. But yeah, despite the second dealer's good customer service, they are advising against taking things apart out of fear that things will get worse and that the problem appears to occur on any car with the B&W sound system, not just mine. They reduced my bass and subwoofer down to the middle range (I like them at about 75%) and suggested that a call to Volvo could be made if I'm still not happy.

At this point I just want the problem fixed, and I feel like I need to take it to a reputable stereo shop to get it addressed. That said, I'm seriously, seriously let down by Volvo's lack of quality control. I will be writing their customer service a letter to express my displeasure. It won't fix my problem, but they need to know that they have lost a customer and a brand representative as a result of what is, in all likelihood, a trivial fix.

I completely understand in terms of wanting something completely resolved, and being let down by Volvo.

I would love to see the backside of the door panel, and the door frame itself. I wonder if it's something that could easily be resolved with either some padding in specific locations, or, checking how the door panel is assembled (is it composed of multiple pieces joined together - and are those the cause, or, is it something with the panel/cable/attachments that causes it). In my case, I would request that they work on it and try and determine the root cause, or, allow me to look at it once they've removed the door panel so I can see what it might be - I've lost so much time dealing with my car, that, what's another hour now..

 

[BigBang]

I have posted before the solution to this problem. Lower the windows, lift top trim of the door panel from the outside towards the inside of the vehicle, apply double sided thick tape under the lifted door trim, put back together. Job done. Vibration is limited to only 1% of the songs I am listening to.

So that's how you get rid of the problems on the car at $ 50k
You must be kidding

PS: You might want to suggest that Volvo to share double sided tape in each car for free

 

[savolvo]

Can you give me an idea of how much of the door trim needs to be propped up? Does the entire top part of the door panel need to be pulled from the outside towards the inside of the car? And can you tell me approximately where and how much double-sided tape you used?

It is pretty tight. Just open as much as you can basically the forward part of it and place enough tape that your fingers can handle.

 

[fjxiom1]

There are only 3 screws that hold the door. Remove them, then slide up, DO NOT pull from it.

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[cb62fcni]

Hey, so sorry to revive this thread, but I think I found the culprit for my door buzzing with bass. It was really hard to isolate the problem, it would crop up seemingly randomly on certain songs, but the dealer couldn't reproduce it. Using a tone generator, I found that it was somewhere around 67hz that caused the worst buzzing. I took the door apart, put dynamat on it, and put it all back together - still buzzing. Lived with it for about a year. On a whim yesterday, I took the door apart again. I looked and shook everything. Lo and behold, I found two likely culprits, both having to do with the electrical wiring. 1. Where the wire harnesses are clipped into the door card itself - there is a little metal clip that hooks it onto plastic pieces on the door. I found that by shaking them, the plastic of the wire harness was contacting the plastic on the door. I put thin strips of dynamat around the door-harness connection points to hold them more snugly and isolate any noise. 2. Wiring harnesses themselves. There were two small connectors where the male and female sides were quite loose. I put a small dollup of hot glue on each to hold them snugly together. Reassembled, and cannot hear the buzzing anymore. Might be worth a look if any still have this problem.

 

[PSamy]

Hey, so sorry to revive this thread, but I think I found the culprit for my door buzzing with bass. It was really hard to isolate the problem, it would crop up seemingly randomly on certain songs, but the dealer couldn't reproduce it. Using a tone generator, I found that it was somewhere around 67hz that caused the worst buzzing. I took the door apart, put dynamat on it, and put it all back together - still buzzing. Lived with it for about a year. On a whim yesterday, I took the door apart again. I looked and shook everything. Lo and behold, I found two likely culprits, both having to do with the electrical wiring. 1. Where the wire harnesses are clipped into the door card itself - there is a little metal clip that hooks it onto plastic pieces on the door. I found that by shaking them, the plastic of the wire harness was contacting the plastic on the door. I put thin strips of dynamat around the door-harness connection points to hold them more snugly and isolate any noise. 2. Wiring harnesses themselves. There were two small connectors where the male and female sides were quite loose. I put a small dollup of hot glue on each to hold them snugly together. Reassembled, and cannot hear the buzzing anymore. Might be worth a look if any still have this problem.

That's an impressive find, Did you get a chance to take few pics?, you should share it with Volvo QC.