[infiniteloop]

I noticed yesterday that there is a buzz coming from the driver's door handle when there is anything bass coming from the speakers, or when going over bumps. Placing pressure on the handle helps, but it's annoying to constantly press the handle to get the buzzing to stop. I have read some posts on this and the XC90 forum that talk about the same issue, but haven't found a definitive fix. Does anyone know the best course of action to get this resolved?

 

[infiniteloop]

Addendum: I did a 65hz tone test and I can replicate the problem at will. I did more testing and it appears that pressure on the door handle, black panel housing the handle/speaker, or the driver's door speaker itself will temporarily fix the issue. I'm going to call the dealer and start the paper trail to get this fixed, and I'll document what steps I take. In the meantime, I would appreciate any guidance from others who have experienced this issue.

 

[n a m]

When you say black panel housing are you referring to the H&K speaker covers?

I think B&W has silver so looking to clarify.



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[Gammelgubbe]

Curious how many db it takes to set it off. Maybe it’s Volvo’s way of telling you save your hearing? 😉

 

[infiniteloop]

I have the B&W speakers.. there is a black plastic(?) panel that houses both the speaker assembly and the door handle. Upon further testing, it seems that the most reliable way to stop the buzzing is to press down on the metal portion of the speaker housing.

 

[infiniteloop]

Curious how many db it takes to set it off. Maybe it's Volvo's way of telling you save your hearing? ?

It will do it even at low volumes and even while listening to talk radio (heaven forbid anyone with a deep voice is on the radio)

 

[sometallguy]

I have the same issue on my passenger side, I have the T8( w/ sub-woofer) with standard audio. Where did you find the audio track to replicate it. I can't get it to happen regularly so I don't feel confident bringing it in to the dealership.

It drives me nuts, my girlfriend says I'm crazy and not to worry about it. Yet I'm still here worrying,

 

[infiniteloop]

I have the same issue on my passenger side, I have the T8( w/ sub-woofer) with standard audio. Where did you find the audio track to replicate it. I can't get it to happen regularly so I don't feel confident bringing it in to the dealership.

It drives me nuts, my girlfriend says I'm crazy and not to worry about it. Yet I'm still here worrying,

Here you go:

 

[LowlyOilBurner]

I have B&W sound in my xc60, and have installed about 5lbs of Dynamat in each front door panel. No more rattles/buzzing. It was bad though, probably because I blast the Bowers&Wilkins sound system like all the time 🙂.

 

[sometallguy]

I have B&W sound in my xc60, and have installed about 5lbs of Dynamat in each front door panel. No more rattles/buzzing. It was bad though, probably because I blast the Bowers&Wilkins sound system like all the time 🙂.

How hard was it to get into the doors? Any of those plastic clips that break super easy?

 

[LowlyOilBurner]

How hard was it to get into the doors? Any of those plastic clips that break super easy?

You have to pry the window switch out, take the rubber flap out where you grab the door to close from the inside. Behind those 2 areas, there is a T25? Torx screw, remove those, remove a 7mm bolt on the bottom of the door, right in the center. Then the door card slides straight up. You have to disconnect the cable that operates the door latch, and unplug the wiring from the door to the door panel. It's super easy, takes longer to pull the tools out of my toolbox than it does to actually remove the door panel.

 

[Gammelgubbe]

Will somebody, ANYBODY, enlighten me as to why this is necessary on a new $60,000 car?

 

[sometallguy]

Will somebody, ANYBODY, enlighten me as to why this is necessary on a new $60,000 car?

First I can't totally answer your question as mine didn't cost $60k. Maybe if I got the 60k edition I wouldn't have a rattle.

Assuming I did ball out and still had a rattle. The shop could fix it, but I'll probably have to take it to the shop a couple times to solve the issue, assuming it's not a design issue. Nothing is absolutely perfect for everyone.

Some times it's easier to solve an issue on your own.

Personally it hasn't been a big enough issue to take to the dealership on it's own and I couldn't find a good way to replicate it when I went for an oil change. Using the 75 hz tone helped me find the exact frequency it happens. So I can waste a day hoping the dealer will fix it or I can waste an afternoon and do it myself.

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[LowlyOilBurner]

^ this. Also, people have taken their cars into the dealer for this issue, sometimes multiple times, and it’s still not fixed. Sometimes, when you want something done right, you have to do it yourself.

 

[infiniteloop]

Update: I had scheduled to visit the dealer on Friday. Sure enough, the noise went away and I could not replicate it all day Wednesday and Thursday, so I cancelled my appointment. Today (Tuesday) the buzzing came back. I'm going to give it a week or so and see if I can find a discernible pattern to the noise.

And while I appreciate DIY projects, I'm going to have to agree with Gammelgubbe. The 3k option on my 65k car with 2k miles shouldn't require me to touch a thing. That said - oilburner, do you have any pics or videos you can share outlining what you did? I'd like to have it in my back pocket in the event that this continues and the dealer can't fix it.

 

[sometallguy]

I haven't done anything yet. Oil burner is the one that fixed his.

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[infiniteloop]

I haven't done anything yet. Oil burner is the one that fixed his.

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Fixed, sorry about that. If you do a self-repair, pics/video would be much appreciated.

 

[infiniteloop]

How hard was it to get into the doors? Any of those plastic clips that break super easy?

Looks easy enough..

Driver side:

Passenger side:

 

[mjpc]

Addendum: I did a 65hz tone test and I can replicate the problem at will.

Definitely a great idea to test the system - I had to go through the tone test today when I dropped the car off so they could finally see there was a problem (reported the rattle/shake on my passenger side earlier this year, but, each time, they've been unable to duplicate it)… I guess there's no arguing a test tone shaking the door off. For me, it was around 64Hz where it was vibrating the most, but between 63-66, it was obvious...

 

[infiniteloop]

Update, so now both speakers are doing it.

I took it in to the dealer yesterday and was frustrated to say the least. After a lengthy back and forth about whether there is or is not a problem, I replicated the problem with the tech and service manager using 65hz and 80hz tone tests. I got them to document the issue. They are trying to talk me out of repairs by saying opening the door panel could potentially cause more problems, and that the issue doesn't seem to be so bad. Their proposed fix is a two day service to install insulation/dampening foam. I'm done with this dealer on account of how long it took them (10 hours!) to call me and tell me nothing is wrong. I'm going to try my local dealer to see if they can do the repairs before attempting a tear down of the door on my own.

For those who are unable to reproduce the problem at the dealer - I can tell you that my speakers need to "warm up" before the rattling/buzzing starts. playing some bass heavy music or the tone test for ~5 minutes will ensure the buzzing will be replicated.

I try not to editorialize, but damn, I'm already fed up with all of the minor problems. Stereo, preconditioning, and trim have all been problematic. I really regret buying this car.