SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Most of the V70 R that I can find have 150k miles or more on them. I'm looking a 2004 today with 195k miles.

Any advice on buying one with that many miles or is it just a bad idea?

I know service records could be good, hopefully it's had timing belt and water pump recently. Suspension work and transmission flush hopefully also have been done.

How can I tell if the AWD is working, or should I assume I need to fix it?

It will probably be a daily driver when I'm not working on it, I will likely end up upgrading some handling like sways etc. I'd like to slowly upgrade and tune as I find time, just want something pretty reliable to start.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
590 Posts
If you want a dependable car this example probably isn't it unless the records are thorough and timely.

Check for timing belt and pcv service, if not in the records I would assume they need done and not trust the seller's word.
I bought a 300z the seller said timing was done 'not long ago' I pulled the cover off and the belt was a few rotations from being garbage.

If its auto check records for transmission service, again thorough and timely.

To check awd, floor it, and then pull the ebrake one click only and floor it again, should feel different if awd is working. The one click will disable the rear wheel drive.

Vacuum hoses and all the rubber bits are also probably really tired... Take a good look all around
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,805 Posts
For this to be a reliable car there are things that you will need to be certain of, as kTaLgsTo says. Hounddogger says (and I believe it) - every R is an 8K car. You pay 8, and everything is perfect, then start planning for the next bout. If it's a 3K car, expect to put 5 into it and start planning for the next bout.
These also have a tendency at this point to be picked up by younger kids who are in the market for a fast car because the prices have dropped so much, which this sort of can be. They toy with it, push it, and then the block cracks, and they're out. Make sure it gets a clean bill of health from someone who knows them and can check for hydrocarbons.
All the underneath should be bone dry and if not, determine what it is and where it's coming from. Lastly, check all the suspension bits and make sure everything works. Get VIDA/DICE - it will be imperative to read and clear and understand codes and clear stuff.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
396 Posts
For this to be a reliable car there are things that you will need to be certain of, as kTaLgsTo says. Hounddogger says (and I believe it) - every R is an 8K car. You pay 8, and everything is perfect, then start planning for the next bout. If it's a 3K car, expect to put 5 into it and start planning for the next bout.
These also have a tendency at this point to be picked up by younger kids who are in the market for a fast car because the prices have dropped so much, which this sort of can be. They toy with it, push it, and then the block cracks, and they're out. Make sure it gets a clean bill of health from someone who knows them and can check for hydrocarbons.
All the underneath should be bone dry and if not, determine what it is and where it's coming from. Lastly, check all the suspension bits and make sure everything works. Get VIDA/DICE - it will be imperative to read and clear and understand codes and clear stuff.
Preach on. I would even say all of them may be $10-$12k cars. Worth it if you're up for it though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Get a combustion gas tester and check for a cracked block. Will save you a headache in the future. If it doesn't pass then move on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,672 Posts
LOL, not sure where that "$8K car" saying originated, but I've been hearing it in the Porsche circles for at least 10 years, and I suspect it started back a lot farther, and probably on another marque, possibly something like Ferrari

It used to be a "any Porsche is a $20K Porsche", but now of course that's out the window. People will pay that for a known basket case.
That cracked-block thing, that's a genuine hazard and a real land mine if you're unfortunate enough to step on it.
I experienced that one first-hand on a purchase, and I was lucky to recover 60% of what I paid for it. I violated my biggest cardinal rule and didn't have it checked out.
It was a long-distance purchase, a 2005 model from a lot in Montana who bought it out of auction. The overall condition was not what I expected, so it wasn't worth it to me to save it. I sold it to a kid who knew what the deal was and was willing to rebuild it. Some old paperwork left on board helped me find the PO in San Diego on LinkedIn. Helluva nice guy who owned the car for most of its life, and I had the conversation with him that I shoulda had before I bought it. He was told by the dealer that this coolant loss was most likely a HG (no mention of a cylinder crack), so he traded it in and it went to auction. A lot of people cop to having coolant loss and hydrocarbons present, but they honestly have no idea that it might anything but a head gasket. So - be careful.
Pretty much all other European used-car measures apply here - especially a really good service and maint. history. If not maintained, these little gems will either punish the current owner, or the next one.
In spades.
As mentioned, the complicated and tender PCV system, the 4C struts, and the myriad bell-and-whistle stuff that's on these cars would be things that you'd want to to look at.
Depends on how much work you do yourself, but a VIDA setup is nice. But you have to be ready to roll up your sleeves, OR have a good, honest, reasonable indy you can utilize, for the stuff you don't want to do.
I'd definitely say, even if cosmetics don't matter that much to you, they definitely are an indicator of how much somebody cared to maintain one of these things - and that very much matters ;).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the replies... I went and saw it today; and tried not to look overly excited.


I talked to the older gentleman (estimate 55-65 years of age) it was his 3rd Volvo wagon - and he is currently driving a 2013 S60 R-design(his 4th volvo) - he's had always the "sporty version" of volvo.
So I'm pretty sure that means every one was an R dating back to the 850 R or maybe earlier. Everyone one he took delivery of using the overseas program and brought back.

(the story on the car went something like this) He doesn't know much exactly about what the mechanic did, but he has always kept 2 sets of tires; and taken the car in every spring and fall to get the tires swapped on the rims and any and all maintenance done on the car. He had the mechanic run a diagnostic each time. He's done this with every car, the maintenance and repair was always done at a volvo dealer til the warranty was up. Then he had spring/fall diagnostics done by his mechanic - and they told him what to do and he just did it.

I explained my concern about timing belt, and transmission fluid, and PCV. The brass tax is he isn't a mechanical type person he just trusted his mechanic. He seemed to be a of person who could afford to pay to have it taken care of - everything ever wrong with it he just got fixed.

One caveat, the mechanic mentioned the emergency brake wasn't working - and offered to just disconnect it instead of fix it - and he took him up on that offer.


I have the mechanics number, and plan to call in the morning and ask for records. Which he has asked them to allow. I also asked him to text me pictures of any paperwork he might have at home if he is willing to get it together - it sounds like he has receipts they are just not all in one place - kind of keeps his records by year.

193k on the ODO. He let me drive it alone with my cousin who came, took it down the highway, around town a jaunt and back to the grocery store we met at.


It was off when I got there, we talked for almost a half hour, and when i got in it to drive it started easy. Boy it was sure fun to drive.

It drove really well, pulled really well, shifted pretty smooth, except maybe two hesitations where it started to upshift as i let off the gas. No clunks or hard shifts.

The stereo worked, he had an Abba CD in the it, that i hope comes with the car as a bonus (its not stuck i ejected and resinserted)

The 4C seemed to be working. Kind of hard to know for sure - no warning lights on the dash. I tried all 3 modes and it seemed to change the dynamic - advanced mode felt more rough. Can't say for certain if the AWD was working but with the pedal to the floor there wasn't a ton of torque steer like I expect from FWD.

The shocks seemed dry, and from what i could see under the engine seemed dry also. On top of the engine, there was some oil stains around the filler cap. The oil looked normal and the coolant looked maybe darker than it should.

Rotors did have some surface rust like it hadn't been driven a lot lately.

Cosmetically I can tell it was taken pretty good care of, no rust to speak of, except a little surface rust under the car, leather is all soft and comfortable - Interior clean and in overall decent shape I couple saggy spots on the A-pillar fabric. Decent set of tires on it, and a set of blizzaks that have plenty of tread get thrown in.

A couple door dings, a couple curb rash spots, a small dent on top of the hood, someone recently backed up into the back the rear bumper was scuffed on the black plastic and the tailgate had some damage - it either left a scratch or some white paint behind.

The tow-hook, jack, spare, etc were all brand new still - the road flares were wrapped in plastic even. He did say his step son had driven it to a semester of college but then decided he wanted a pickup truck instead.

He is a motivated seller, they have several cars and not much use for this one anymore. Doesn't want to keep insuring an extra car for no reason. I'll take a combustible gas tester there tomorrow (need to buy from o'reilly) and look at it again if the records seem satisfactory.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,187 Posts
How much is he asking for it? I would just say if those 4C's have over 100k hey are probably pretty close to dead. My fronts struts had about 100k on them and there was no rebound in either strut. They were toast. The rears shocks had probably 140k and were original to the car and same thing dead. The rest of the suspension parts are probably worn out if they haven't been replace. Just to do all that work will cost you about $2500. That's if you use quality parts and do it yourself. The oil cap probably just need a new seal. The A pillars can be replaced with a set from a later model car. I got a set from a 2002 S60. they are plastic. Seems a good detail would take car of the cosmetics. Any pictures of the caR?

Report back with your finding from the indy?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Asking price is around 3k, sounds like he wants it gone this weekend and he already got an offer from CarMax he might just take it there. This week... I don't know the CarMax offer guessing 1200 to 1500 tops?

Indy will be getting a call soon as they open.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,805 Posts
Sounds like you’ve found a good one. The cosmetics sound like they’re fixable. The black plastic on bumper can be replaced easily. The a pillar covers can too. Good inspection! Hope it’s priced well! Yeah- pics would be great. Otherwise it’s a Camry until you prove it. Good luck!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,187 Posts
I would go in with a much lower price than what he is asking. If his only offer is from car max I am sure he will take just over that for it. Good luck! If it runs good and you find its been well maintained from the Indy and you can wrench on it some yourself or with the help of someone then I would say go for it.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
590 Posts
I bought a well maintained VR for just under 3k with more miles than that, all records were clean and clear with major maintenance taken care of and good tires. So if the records for the car are in decent order than I think you'll be fine on that price point
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
760 Posts
Things to look for ... a good trusted independent mechanic who can work on Volvo's. You'll get to know him quite well. Secondly, a good website for inexpensive parts. But for $3K ... it might be a fun play thing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Busy weekend, drove out to look at the car a couple times. Chased down a block tester, it tested fine. Opened the cover for the timing belt - it looks pretty new.

The mechanic was closed all weekend; but i'm hoping I can get records tomorrow. Still went ahead and bought it the price seemed decent.

Sorry these pics are awful, I didn't have much spare time today.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
236 Posts
You sound like you're doing due diligence as much as you can.
I'd go in at $2300 which isn't taking the piss but is realistically still more than he's probably been offered.

Good luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Nice buy and good job doing your research before hand. Welcome to the forum!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,187 Posts
Busy weekend, drove out to look at the car a couple times. Chased down a block tester, it tested fine. Opened the cover for the timing belt - it looks pretty new.

The mechanic was closed all weekend; but i'm hoping I can get records tomorrow. Still went ahead and bought it the price seemed decent.

Sorry these pics are awful, I didn't have much spare time today.

Nice so what was the final price?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,672 Posts
Autocheck shows an accident in April with "minor damage". If that's the tailgate & bumper that were dinged, no biggie. He probably turned it into insurance and pocketed a few bucks :cool:
If you got one in reasonable shape that's fairly straight and that's drivable, with no big issues that jump out at you, for anything less than $3500 - you did well, my friend :thumbup:

(LOL, I'm still getting used to being an "older gentleman" :facepalm:, but the discounts somewhat take the sting out of it :p)
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top