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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
okay, after a lot more measuring and shopping, i decided to go with the 29x11x3 inch (overall size) intercooler with 2.5" in/outs.

the 31x12x3 inch intercooler only comes with 3" in/outs and that is just going to be a pita to get reducers and fit a 3" silicone elbow through the barely 2.5" space where the original cold side piping was.

now to just get some ideas on how to hook it up to the TB.... should i go 3 inch pipe for the cold side or will 2.5 be fine, is there really going to be a performance gain?
 

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You better include a nice writeup that I can steal from this spring!!

PARTS LIST WOULD BE BENEFICIAL! haha Best of luck...always sad to see an R apaRt like that! but foR a good Reason nonetheless.
 

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what did you find so hard about removing the old one?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
well the phuz instructions were like "remove these bolts and slide it out the top"

oh no. i had to push so hard on the radiator and AC condenser to get it out. the end tanks of the IC are sandwiched underneath the mounting points for the radiator and you cannot just slide it out. you have to push on the radiator towards the engine so the IC endtank in/outlets can clear.

if i would have removed the AC condenser i def would have just slid right out, but there was no way i wanted that mess. i have NO idea how IPD gets the IC out through the bottom. the only way to do that is to remove the radiator. the radiator mounts to the chassis to support all three coils. you have to remove those bolts to even think of having enough room to wiggle the IC out and once you remove those bolts they all just fall independently. so you have to pull up on one, push aside another, all while yanking at the IC.

def way harder than i thought it would be, and i work on cars a lot.

picture the mounting for the radiator to be a C on either side. reversed on the one side of course. now the circular inlet of the IC is going through that C. and you cant move the radiator side to side. the only way is in and out. yeah, PITA lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
anyways, here is the IC and piping kit im going with.

http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CXR&Product_Code=IC0016-KIT250-EB

$250 for everything i will need. i also got a 3-2.5" elbow reducer for the throttle body. and a 2.5-2" straight reducer for the turbo.

now my plan is to get this stuff. measure and cut the pipe where i need it, mark it, and take it to a shop to get welded. i dont see this costing over $500 and i will have a bad ass IC set-up With an OTE pipe!
 

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step one: get that old POS out. (way harder than i thought it would be)


....
CURTAINS!!??

And is that carpeting??
Wha?
Is that your living room?
Are you the type to rebuild your tranny in the bathtub?
 

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Not an R, but a DIY to give you some ideas:
From NJGreenBud in the S60 (2001-2010) forum

New Intercooler


Stock Intercooler Removed


Tough Side


Easier Side










IC is too small, of course, but maybe some of the piping pics will make sense. He said he went 2.5" the whole way. Its the last post on page 1 of his build thread I believe.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
that looks like it worked really well mounting it upside down. i plan on doing the IC upright, but thats whats nice about the universal piping kit i got. i have enough pipe to play around with some ideas :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
wow is this CX Racing a great company. IPD should take notes.

was about to check out on their website and it said $50 to ship. i was like wait a minute. ive gotten stuff from them on eBay before and it was always free shipping. called them up and they said they do have cheaper prices on eBay. honored those prices and gave me the free ship. saved $100!
 

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