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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone!

I have a Volvo xc90 2.5T with some R engine components. There were installed K24 stock turbo, R green injectors, 3'' downpipe and Nissan GT-R32 intercooler. Also exhaust from v8 was installed. Now car has about 300 BHP. And around 7.5 seconds to 100 Km/h and 15 sec per 1/4 mile.

Now I want to get about 400 BHP. But my current engine has 9:1 compression ratio. So I need to build other engine. I bought cracked R engine. And I have a question. If a built an engine with stock block is it possible to get long live engine? Or is it needed to strengthen sleeves?
 

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Hello everyone!

I have a Volvo xc90 2.5T with some R engine components. There were installed K24 stock turbo, R green injectors, 3'' downpipe and Nissan GT-R32 intercooler. Also exhaust from v8 was installed. Now car has about 300 BHP. And around 7.5 seconds to 100 Km/h and 15 sec per 1/4 mile.

Now I want to get about 400 BHP. But my current engine has 9:1 compression ratio. So I need to build other engine. I bought cracked R engine. And I have a question. If a built an engine with stock block is it possible to get long live engine? Or is it needed to strengthen sleeves?


I’m assuming you bought the cracked R engine for its internals? If you swap the R internals (pistons, rods, crank etc) into your 2.5t they’ll essentially be the same, just with a different head. If you install a set of shims for the motor with the R internals, i’m sure you’d probably be able to hold 400bhp pretty reliably. Not 100% sure on how the 2.5t head flows vs the R head though.


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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I’m assuming you bought the cracked R engine for its internals? If you swap the R internals (pistons, rods, crank etc) into your 2.5t they’ll essentially be the same, just with a different head. If you install a set of shims for the motor with the R internals, i’m sure you’d probably be able to hold 400bhp pretty reliably. Not 100% sure on how the 2.5t head flows vs the R head though.k
R engine has compression ratio 8.5:1. B5254T2 and B5254T4 engines have next difference: pistons, rods, head and camshafts. Block and crankshaft are the same. I don't want to rebuild my engine with R components. I want to restore cracked block with new sleeves or buy another unbroken block and build motor with this.
 

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R engine has compression ratio 8.5:1. B5254T2 and B5254T4 engines have next difference: pistons, rods, head and camshafts. Block and crankshaft are the same. I don't want to rebuild my engine with R components. I want to restore cracked block with new sleeves or buy another unbroken block and build motor with this.
Unless the crack is extremely small, I don’t think you’ll be able to restore that block. It isn’t worth investing all of that money to get sleeves installed when it may not even be successful.


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It isn’t worth investing all of that money to get sleeves installed when it may not even be successful.
Just out of curiosity what wouldn't be successful about sleeving the motor ? I ask not because I have a cracked block, but because with limited Volvo engines available locally if mine did die I'd likely go the sleeving route.
 

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Just out of curiosity what wouldn't be successful about sleeving the motor ? I ask not because I have a cracked block, but because with limited Volvo engines available locally if mine did die I'd likely go the sleeving route.
Sleeving a healthy block is fine. Sleeving a cracked block is an awful idea, since the motor will most likely slip the sleeve, or the crack can worsen from it. For how cheap a 2.5t/R block is, it makes zero sense to sleeve a cracked block. They’ll already be doing the work of tearing your block down to nothing taking all of the internals out, it’d be pointless to have them do it on a block that’s cooked.


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If the crack is between the cylinders at the top like most are, it will be machined out for the new sleeves and shouldn't matter.

https://youtu.be/pXK8gyzbELA




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Sleeving a healthy block is fine. Sleeving a cracked block is an awful idea, since the motor will most likely slip the sleeve, or the crack can worsen from it. For how cheap a 2.5t/R block is, it makes zero sense to sleeve a cracked block. They’ll already be doing the work of tearing your block down to nothing taking all of the internals out, it’d be pointless to have them do it on a block that’s cooked.


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When an engine is “sleeved” it means the original sleeves are machined out. The cylinders along with the cracks are converted to aluminum shavings lol. It makes no difference if the top of the cylinder is cracked or not. It is cut out. Block is heated to expand the metal and new sleeves are pushed in place.

EDIT: Astro-R beat me to it...
 

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When an engine is “sleeved” it means the original sleeves are machined out. The cylinders along with the cracks are converted to aluminum shavings lol. It makes no difference if the top of the cylinder is cracked or not. It is cut out. Block is heated to expand the metal and new sleeves are pushed in place.

EDIT: Astro-R beat me to it...
Thats what I understood too - hence my question.
Doing that block guard thing Re-Volv sell would obviously require a completely healthy block to start with
https://re-volvparts.com/store/home/87-re-volv-kaplhenke-racing-blockguard-for-25l-s60r-v70r.html
 

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Why not just shim it for less. Don’t most cracks occur between the cylinders?


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Why not just shim it for less. Don’t most cracks occur between the cylinders?
Exactly... Just remember even 10 years later you have people/members/ladybirds come on here blabbering that shims don't work or you have people that shim and still crack a sleeve.... those are the people that turned it themselves or their tuner sucks balls .. shim's on 2.5l 83 mm bore definitely strengths that area but it does not make it bulletproof...with proper tuning, it works! Unfortunately if you have a mishap that area is still the weakest link in 83mm bore.
 

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If you are going down the rabbit hole....you may as well do it right from the start while it is apart. Mark my words, once you hit 400 it is only a matter of time till you become bored and want more. That is why I went full Darton MID wet sleeves, Carrillo forged pistons and rods, ARP studs, diamond file rings, had it all coated, balanced etc. I can theoretically on my current set up push 60 psi. I went this route because I knew I would eventually outgrow the k16 and now its just simple crap to go bigger. Upgrade fuel pump, lines, injectors, 2 step cooler plugs, maybe some head work, retune, bigger water/meth nozzles and a few other bits. Eventually I will have to address the tranny issue, drive shafts and what have you.

But to answer your question, you can go much cheaper routes and still have a perfectly fun ride that yes, you can get longevity out of. (Relative) to driving style and performance parts. There is usually some trade off. With high quality parts from reputable shops, proper machining, and smart tuner the trade offs will be less. But so will the money in your wallet.



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If you are going down the rabbit hole....you may as well do it right from the start while it is apart. Mark my words, once you hit 400 it is only a matter of time till you become bored and want more. That is why I went full Darton MID wet sleeves, Carrillo forged pistons and rods, ARP studs, diamond file rings, had it all coated, balanced etc. I can theoretically on my current set up push 60 psi. I went this route because I knew I would eventually outgrow the k16 and now its just simple crap to go bigger. Upgrade fuel pump, lines, injectors, 2 step cooler plugs, maybe some head work, retune, bigger water/meth nozzles and a few other bits. Eventually I will have to address the tranny issue, drive shafts and what have you.

But to answer your question, you can go much cheaper routes and still have a perfectly fun ride that yes, you can get longevity out of. (Relative) to driving style and performance parts. There is usually some trade off. With high quality parts from reputable shops, proper machining, and smart tuner the trade offs will be less. But so will the money in your wallet.

you have a c30 :whistle: ....as for your advice This an absolute waste of money for Neanderthal combustion engine thats going b-bye, but those who are dumb enough to waste money thinking they have a bulletproof engine with all that...well lmoa...you have so many on this vary forum that don't post their high end builds failures, they simply get rid or part their caRs :D...on his xc90 he can simply accomplish all that with just sink 81mm bore 2.4l or older 81mm 2.3l with arp studs and rods or just shim his 83mm 2.5...my god when will people learn? :rolleyes:
 

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Not afraid to admit ****. I have wrecked a few motors, melted pistons, literally blew the lid of of the PCV, etc. And I agree that there is no such thing as bullet proof. But with quality parts and machining etc. the chances of failure below threshold is a lot less likely. When will people ever learn.

Push ANY motor hard enough and eventually, POP GOES THE WEASEL!!!

Again, depends on the goals for the end result.


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My brother and I also drag a 1500 whp Camaro running very low 7s. We have “wasted” a ton of money and time and will continue doing so just because, well, we can. Different strokes for different folks.

My comment was “my” opinion. The OP can take it or leave it. But starting off your comment being snide because you cannot understand the reasoning behind a performance minded individuals build is ludicrous.




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Being a colorectal surgeon does not however make you a wizard at everything in life. So you can take your know it all god complex and shove it well up your arse. I’m assuming by your occupation you can find the hole.

See the difference, I can be snide too. It is easy. Doing things constructively however takes a bit more.....couth. Slainte.


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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I have weird question. Is anybody gets diesel block D5244T and install petrol head? I think that diesel block is stronger than petrol.
 

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Being a colorectal surgeon does not however make you a wizard at everything in life. So you can take your know it all god complex and shove it well up your arse. I’m assuming by your occupation you can find the hole.

See the difference, I can be snide too. It is easy. Doing things constructively however takes a bit more.....couth. Slainte.
:D


im not sure what you talking about ladybird, but i would stop giving dumb advice especially running on k16..lol
here is my 1000$ 690 awhp engine built with only apr studs and 200 china h rods rest internal all stock...which i put on 30k of raping miles and then sold the entire upgrade as a kit which i made all by hand myself...also i sold the very rods and pistons and arp studs for 440$ from this engine after i went back to stock ... and i did it all by myself no machine shop involved ...im sorry but what have you done to give dumb advice to waste money? :D


as you saw one of my hobbies is to watch birds-ladybirds like you to pay someone to get things done cause you cant, but yet then you give advice...come again...:beer::whistle:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k3T4wV6GiFE


 

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I have weird question. Is anybody gets diesel block D5244T and install petrol head? I think that diesel block is stronger than petrol.

they have in Europe not here in the US cuz the blocks are not available you don't really need that you just need a 2.3 81 MM bore or 2005 to 2009 2.4l T5 engine
 

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Give me a minute to find a better YouTube video of my alpha 8c or my super duper whatever oh wait I sold all of my problems down the road to some poor unsuspecting sod. I pay someone to do the work not because I cannot but rather because I have the money and not always the time. Keep guessing and fishing, your good at it.

Love your word soup, “ladybird” blah, blah.


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