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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Removing wheels to adjust suspension the other day. One of the wheel nuts loosened, then tightened...so apparently last time it was worked on the shop cross threaded it. Awesome. Well I take it to the last shop that had it (2 weeks ago) and they claimed they never removed the wheels. Since I can't prove they did, I say ok, just replace the studs.

They called me back saying that Volvo doesn't sell the individual studs, that you have to replace the entire bearing assembly with the studs already pressed in, and the part (~$300) plus labor ($120/hr...northern Virginia SUCKS) is going to be $700. Can you really not replace just a lug on the front wheels on our S40's?? That seems a little ridiculous. I mean at 140K miles replacing a bearing isn't necessarily a bad idea, but I didn't plan on shelling out $700 today.

Shoot me...:mad:
 

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I'm afraid that's true. Even if you wanted to just replace the stud you would need to press out the bearing.
Likely not cross threaded, it's a know issue with higher mileage, corroded nuts on our cars. If you feel that happening when removing another cut it off with a Dremel, etc. if you are able.

It would be money well spent to replace all the lug nuts. Use the newer style (fixed washer), they seem to be less prone to this problem & are rated for a higher torque setting. Personally I still torque to 80ft lbs, it's more than enough. They cost a few cents less as well.

New Part Number 31329645
Part Name WHEEL NUT
MSRP $6.07
Core $0.00
Online Price $3.91

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the info pcz.

$300 bearings along with random little things breaking every month make me one step closer to selling the S40 and buying a new Hyundai Genesis Coupe 3.8...somebody talk me back from the ledge because 348hp and a 10yr warranty smells awfully nice right now.
 

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You can get the front hub/bearing for $150 ish. That should make the replacement easier on your wallet.

It's an older car, so maintenance will be a part of ownership. I put away money every month for this anyway, since the car is paid for. If you keep up with its maintenance, it really isn't so bad.
 

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Kind of makes me glad I drive so much and rotate as often as I do. Keeps my lug nuts from seizing! (and I always torque myself so I know they're not over tightened!) Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
aldebaran - Very true. I actually do the same thing as far as building a 'reserve' for these situations. And it certainly does end up being less annually than making payments. OK I'm good now. Still love my S40 (plus lets be honest, with all the mods how much was I really going to get for it if I sold it anyway??)
 

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aldebaran - Very true. I actually do the same thing as far as building a 'reserve' for these situations. And it certainly does end up being less annually than making payments. OK I'm good now. Still love my S40 (plus lets be honest, with all the mods how much was I really going to get for it if I sold it anyway??)
Glad to help.
Anyway, if you have the tools and are mechanically inclined, you can do a lot of the work yourself and it will cost you even less annually.
The key is finding the parts cheap and DIY. Also find a forum with a ton of good writeups, even if you have VADIS/VIDA.
 

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rockauto for the bearings. cheapest price out there. unfortunately this post is "normal" to most of us. bearings are an issue with these cars.
 

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That sucks but is quite common especially the further east coast you get. Proper Wheel torque and regularly rotating your tires is your best preventative maintenance.

Labor sounds about right, although the part seems steep. Likely marking up the part themselves. I don't recall them being that much money, not as much as the P2 hub assembly's.
 

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I torque my lugs to just 89 ft.lbs
 

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Welcome to the club! . . . I blame shop impact wrench, salt, and shop over torquing.
I've been using anti seize nowadays even on the bolts. Not overly though!
I tighten the bolts. Drive round trip to work (20 miles) , re-tighten and typically it does not move after that.
I tighten bolts to 82ft/bl
It's been working well ever since. But if you use some anti seize you MUST recheck all is tight after a short drive AND once more after that!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well seeing how common this apparently is, I now consider myself lucky it took 7 years!! :D
 

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Glad to help.
Anyway, if you have the tools and are mechanically inclined, you can do a lot of the work yourself and it will cost you even less annually.
The key is finding the parts cheap and DIY. Also find a forum with a ton of good writeups, even if you have VADIS/VIDA.
I absolutely agree with this, DIY can save you tons of money down the road, and its never too late to learn. Lets be honest we can all learn and we can all do most of the vehicle repair by ourselves. Good way to do it is for first couple times you need something minor fixed on your car, do it yourselves and with the money you saved go out to the store and buy tools like sockets, screwdrivers, wrenches etc and keep doing this untill you have enough stuff to do most of the things yourself.
 

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If its your rear hub u can do that yourself easily since they bolt in. If its the front, unless u have a press and the appropriate holders it won't be easy to do. Ur best bet would be to take the spindle out yourself and take it in to have the hub bearing replaced to cut down on labor.
 

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I went to the Mazda dealership and purchased the current model Mazda 3 stud. Went to my local shop. The popped the broken one out. And put in the new one. $6.00 for the part. 30 bucks to put it on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I went to the Mazda dealership and purchased the current model Mazda 3 stud. Went to my local shop. The popped the broken one out. And put in the new one. $6.00 for the part. 30 bucks to put it on.
That would have been a lot cheaper... :facepalm:
 

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Well, you can look at it this way.
There are 4 more studs on this hub. If one stud broke off, chances are the other 4 may be on their way out too. Then your bearing may be on the verge as well, given your mileage. So it was smart to change the entire hub assembly in one go and save all that money on labor charges and alignments.
 

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Guys, the thought of spending $300+ for a wheel stud is crazy. I didn't see a cutout to remove/replace my broken stud with a Mazda version. Is there a trick I'm missing? I can't really get the new one in.
 

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Guys, the thought of spending $300+ for a wheel stud is crazy. I didn't see a cutout to remove/replace my broken stud with a Mazda version. Is there a trick I'm missing? I can't really get the new one in.
i believe some have bent or cutout a notch from the brake shield in order to bang out the existing stud and replace it.
 
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