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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I tried to loosen the nut for the transverse arm mounting bolt in order to install the IPD rear sway bar and the bolt broke. I have new bolts, but I can't seem to get the old bolt out of the hole. I am able to turn it with a ratchet and it will unscrew about half an inch and then it stops and just spins. I tried to use a punch to get it out, but it doesn't move that way either. It doesn't seem as if the mounting holes are threaded, but maybe I am wrong? Anyone had this problem before? Could it just be corrosion due to the dissimilar metals in the transverse arm?
 

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see if you can get pressure under the bold head and then try turning it out. Screwdriver, wonder bar ect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I will give that a try again. I am not sure why this is difficult, everything is accessible and it seems as though it should come out. There is a good deal of corrosion in the hole, but I was able to loosen it up some with PB Blaster. Perhaps it needs more soaking.
 

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PB blaster is your best ally for this kind of issue. That and heat, where possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I will continue to blast it and see where I get. If I can't do it (I have tried twice now) I will hand it over to a pro and let him fight with it.

Any idea if the hole into which the bolt fits is threaded? I can't imagine it is.
 

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Which bolt on the transverse arm is it? A picture might help
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I don't have a pic of the actual bolt, but it is the outside transverse arm bolt as indicated below:

 

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So to recap: bolt is loose, but nut broke off, bolt spins in the hole but can't be driven out? Might be able to try drilling a hole into the bolt, using an easy out to be able to drive it out with pressure
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yes, that is the deal. Nut broke off and I put a ratchet on the top of the bolt and was able to back it out about 1/2 inch and then it stops coming out, but will turn in the hole. I used a punch and a hammer and was not able to drive the bolt out. The amount of corrosion in the hole is significant.

I considered putting a bolt into a socket on my impact gun and giving that a try but I don't want to cause more trouble than I am trying to fix.

I don't know if I will be able to drill into the bolt as I would assume it is hardened? The new bolts appear to be galvanized.
 

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Sounds like it's just very corroded. I looked at a picture of the stock bars that came out of my s70 and they did not appear to be threaded, nor does the behaviour of the broken bolt suggest that either. Spin it, pb blaster it, if you have a hammer drill not an impact, try that to drive it out
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Good thought on the hammer drill, I will give that a try. One more go at it and then I will pack it in and admit defeat. The first time I tried I spent 2 hours on it. Sunday I spent an hour before frustration set in.

The sway bar is definitely not threaded, but the transverse arm mounting bolts don't actually pass through the sway bar. They are loosened only to make it possible to remove the bar. I wouldn't care if all the bolts broke if after that I was able to remove them.
 

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If you have a fine tipped mapp gas torch like a plumber uses for sweating pipes you may be able to get some heat into that bolt and by temperature cycling it crush the corrosion that's binding it if the hammer drill doesn't work. Sounds like a supreme pain in the ass, makes me glad I ponied up and had my sway bar install done by the pros since I had issues with muffler clearance and alignment being off afterwards that they fixed in the process of it all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
My plan was to get the sway bar in, and then replace the control arms up front and get the the whole thing aligned. I was hoping to do this over the weekend along with engine mounts and new front rotors. The muffler clearance has me a bit worried as the muffler mount on one side looks like it will turn to dust as soon as I try to loosen it. But that is the way things go, I suppose.

All of this is in preparation for the ultimate goal of doing a 19t swap in the next month or so. I have a new CJ Yother down pipe installed and I have the injectors and turbo ready to go. The tune will take about a week to turn around and then I will be ready to go.

As an aside, I can't recommend the CJ down pipe highly enough. It is incredibly nice and really does a lot to help the turbo breathe. Plus CJ was a really nice guy to work with.
 

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Try having a friend pound on it while you turn it. Sometimes you need the combination of motion to get it free.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I would have to make a friend for that to work...

I think I am going to try the impact gun with a bolt in it followed by the hammer drill followed by loud cursing and perhaps a few tears. I just talked to a mechanic friend who said he would do it for me, but that just further spurred me on to think I can do it myself. He suggested a bigger hammer and more PB Blaster.

It is odd that I can move it, but only so far. I would think that once it gets going it would continue to go. I guess I should put on my big girl pants and actually take a few swings with some feeling and see what happens.
 

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...Anyone had this problem before? Could it just be corrosion due to the dissimilar metals in the transverse arm?
Yes and yes. I used a sawzall and had to cut each mount 2 times to get them out of my '96 850. Oddly, they came out quite easily on my '00 S70

You should just replace both transverse arm mounts mounts while you're at it







 
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