SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner

1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2006 M66 V70R. The car developed a massive exhaust leak between the manifold and the head, assumed this was caused by the manifold gaskets as they're known to be an issue, but this was not the case.

The single stud on the outside of ports 1 and 5 (furthest passenger side and furthest driver's side studs respectively) are both broken off in the head, below the surface of the head. I can get in there with a 90* air drill, but I can't see anything from the top, and it's a long reach from the bottom.

Has anyone had any succes extracting these without dropping the engine? I can drop the subframe a few inches without disconnecting everything, and that may give me enough room to make it easier. I'm considering making a guide for the drill/extractor that will press in to the bolt holes in the manifold to ensure I at least drill a straight pilot hole for an extractor of some sort.

Anyone have any input? Experience?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
940 Posts
I've done plenty. Do you have a set of left handed drill bits?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don't have any on hand, but they're easily obtained. I was planning on using them.

What's your procedure?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
More times than not the studs vibrate out once the nuts loosen up. Are you sure they are broken off instead of just missing?
I have the snapped off halves, complete with nuts and washers to prove it. I've also felt the broken off portion in the head. I'm at least 150% sure they're broken off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,980 Posts
Don't mean to hijack OP's thread but I have a very similar question on same subject:

I also have a small exhaust leak on my T5 that I'm just about sure is due to loose nuts (on the manifold;). If the suds are also loose, how to I tighten the studs? It may be obvious once I get back there but figured it wouldn't hurt to ask. I'm guessing I'll need to use the two nut method to tighten the studs.

TIA!

Planning on tightening them back to spec next weekend when I do my oil change.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,586 Posts
Don't mean to hijack OP's thread but I have a very similar question on same subject:

I also have a small exhaust leak on my T5 that I'm just about sure is due to loose nuts (on the manifold;). If the suds are also loose, how to I tighten the studs? It may be obvious once I get back there but figured it wouldn't hurt to ask. I'm guessing I'll need to use the two nut method to tighten the studs.

TIA!

Planning on tightening them back to spec next weekend when I do my oil change.
loosen nuts, tighten studs, re tighten nuts


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
940 Posts
I don't have any on hand, but they're easily obtained. I was planning on using them.

What's your procedure?
My procedure for removing snapped studs? What are you looking for, step by step? There isn't really an ISO procedure for this man, just drill those beyotches out with left handed bits and you'll be happy as a clam!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
My procedure for removing snapped studs? What are you looking for, step by step? There isn't really an ISO procedure for this man, just drill those beyotches out with left handed bits and you'll be happy as a clam!
I should elaborate, I guess. The studs didn't break nicely. I don't have a flat surface to start the drill on. Couple that with no visibility from the top, and I'm less confident than I'd like to be that I'll be able to drill centered/straight in to the stud. Sounds like it's purely a seat of the pants things no matter how you look at it, though. I'll hope for the best.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
940 Posts
I should elaborate, I guess. The studs didn't break nicely. I don't have a flat surface to start the drill on. Couple that with no visibility from the top, and I'm less confident than I'd like to be that I'll be able to drill centered/straight in to the stud. Sounds like it's purely a seat of the pants things no matter how you look at it, though. I'll hope for the best.
As with any drilling project, you'll want to punch the stud and try and get a nice pilot hole started. I would use a 1/8 or 3/16 bit for that. You'll have to pull the downpipe off to make some space for yourself. Once that's off, you'll be able to get back there with a mirror to get the right angle on things and go to town. It's not as bad as you think, just take your time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,980 Posts
loosen nuts, tighten studs, re tighten nuts


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks but unless there are hex heads on the studs I'd have do something like put on two nuts on the stud to be able to tighten it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,586 Posts
Thanks but unless there are hex heads on the studs I'd have do something like put on two nuts on the stud to be able to tighten it.
ah shoot i forgot. was looking at some ARP's today and the other day when I posted this and they have hex. forgot ours are just threaded rods :/


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
940 Posts
I also have a stud socket that works well for installing these. Check out amazon or tooltopia.
ah shoot i forgot. was looking at some ARP's today and the other day when I posted this and they have hex. forgot ours are just threaded rods :/


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That's why it's called a stud...

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,586 Posts
I also have a stud socket that works well for installing these. Check out amazon or tooltopia.

That's why it's called a stud...

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk
obviously you dumb fck. i forgot ours didnt have anything on them to turn them by. you can still turn them by the threads but you risk messing them up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,199 Posts
I had a couple break but they all showed a couple threads still. My mechanic got them out from underneath by hitting them with a MAPP torch. I also hit them for several days beforehand with PBlaster.
Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,980 Posts
I also have a stud socket that works well for installing these. Check out amazon or tooltopia.

That's why it's called a stud...

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk
Thanks man! I will check out that tool.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
290 Posts
I had a stud snap on a 1984 Jetta I owned way back when. I used a bushing that fit into the manifold to center the drill bit. It worked pretty well. I couldn't find a bushing that had the inside diameter I wanted to use to drill the stud for the extractor so I first drilled it with a larger bullet-point bit that did fit to make a centered hole then drilled it from there with a smaller bit. Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,477 Posts
You sure its below the surface of the head if you take the manifold off?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
536 Posts
what if you create a jig that uses the useable holes to hold the bit at the correct angle?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
940 Posts
what if you create a jig that uses the useable holes to hold the bit at the correct angle?
If you can make a sleeve that's 10mm it would be extremely helpful in keeping the drill bit straight.



Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top