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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So today I did something stupid.

At the same time as I pulled the door handle from the insideA (driver seat), I pushed the lock switch. The result? The door can't open anymore. Or rather I will try pulling the handle 50 times and maybe get lucky that it will manually/mechanically open.

I can move the little door pin when pulling the handle but it doesn't stay up or enabled to open the door.

Any kind advice or instructions? Been searching without a solution.

Thanks very much!
 

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I'd pop the inside door panel off and see if anything looks funky. I'd say something is either broken or just popped out of place. I haven't had this problem so I can't tell you much, but that's where I'd start
 

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I did this once. You have to manually get the lock to open again. Just use a screwdriver or something to retract it. Right now it thinks the door is closed in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Update: I found a way to open the car consistently, even if it is far from ideal. I definitely still need to fix it, but maybe the following will make sense to someone when trying to figure out what the problem is.

From the inside, the door opens if I pull the door handle and press the lock switch next to it at the same time. Actually I have to pull the handle twice. The first time I pull the handle and press the lock switch, after which the door pin stays up. Then I pull the door handle again and the door opens.

From the outside, the only way I can get the door to open is by inserting the mechanical key in the key hole and turning it at the same time as I unlock the door using the car remote. If I just unlock the car using the remote and then turn the mechanical key, it won't open. Or rather I am unable to turn the key. So I have to turn the key and press the remote unlock button at the very same time.

I hope the above makes sense to some kind soul who can tell me what needs to be done.

I'd pop the inside door panel off and see if anything looks funky. I'd say something is either broken or just popped out of place. I haven't had this problem so I can't tell you much, but that's where I'd start
Thanks. Do you know of a tutorial showing how to get the door panel off?

I did this once. You have to manually get the lock to open again. Just use a screwdriver or something to retract it. Right now it thinks the door is closed in.
Thanks. Could you clarify? After I managed to get the door open again, I looked at the actual lock at the side of the door and it seems to be open. But I am not sure if I understand what you mean by manually getting the lock to open again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
New update:

So I managed to get the door panel off as well as the metal plate which is held in place with some 10mm bolts. However, I realized that was not enough to properly access the area/mechanism which the door pin bar is attached to. So I couldn't fully see if anything was mechanically disconnected. So I gave up and re-assembled everything again. Either way, it doesn't make sense to me if something is indeed disconnected, as I can still move the door pin up and down with the inside door handle.

MORE IMPORTANTLY: After re-assembling things I wanted to drive away, but the battery was low on juice (likely from having the door open for hours + me pushing the lock switch many times + the battery not being in great shape). So I charged it with my Noco Genius charger (love that charger btw!). After charging it to more than 75% I tried the lock again and lo and behold... suddenly I could unlock the car from the inside by using the lock switch - and the door pin would actually eject to the open position. I immediately tried to close and open the car from the outside using the remote and it worked again as normal! Well almost... At first the door pin was a little slower to eject compared to the other 3 doors. But after a few times of opening and closing, it ejected at the same and normal speed. This was last night. I parked the car and went happy to bed.

Next morning, I was anxious about the lock. Would it still work? And no, it didn't :( There is a twist to the story though. Once I got into the car by using the mechanical key and pressing the remote control at the same time, I made a new discovery. So I could once again unlock the door and eject the door pin by pressing the lock switch from the inside. So far so good. But when I immediately after stepped outside of the car, locked the car and tried to unlock the car with the remote, the door would not unlock and the door pin would not eject. The door pin would wiggle a little (as it has been doing throughout) but not eject.

So what gives??? :confused:

I try to do some troubleshooting after work today and decided to charge the battery again. Lo and behold... it is now possible to unlock the car as normal again, using the remote. Again, what gives? :confused: The only thing I can think of is that it needs a lot of electric power to unlock and eject the door pin. But why would that be the case? It is not necessary for the other 3 doors which happily unlock and eject even at low juice.

Does this make sense to anyone? Granted, my battery is not new and could need replacement - but again why would a higher charge only be needed for the driver's door? :confused:

I am of course happy that I have a temporary fix for this. But I can't be charging my battery to full level everyday, just to be able to unlock the driver door the regular way :rolleyes::facepalm::D

There are several threads in the sticky, here's a particularly good one for the panel(s): http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?96923
Thanks very much tmtalpey! Found a video tutorial on Youtube as well which helped me to pretty effortlessly remove the panel.
 

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what gives? :confused: The only thing I can think of is that it needs a lot of electric power to unlock and eject the door pin. But why would that be the case? It is not necessary for the other 3 doors which happily unlock and eject even at low juice.

Does this make sense to anyone? Granted, my battery is not new and could need replacement - but again why would a higher charge only be needed for the driver's door? :confused:
Just an educated guess: Most of these cars are set up with two-stage unlocking (i.e. from the remote the first press unlocks the driver door, the second unlocks all the doors), though this can be disabled from the car menu on the ICM.

This means that the driver door lock motor typically has significantly more cycles than the other locks. More cycles = more wear, more wear = more friction, more friction = more power to operate. Also, whatever you did the day of the malefaction may have contributed to additional wear inside of the motor or clutch.

You should get a DMM (or voltmeter) and check your battery voltage when it is operating correctly and incorrectly. These cars get all sorts of gremlins when the battery gets old - you might try a desulfating charger prior to replacing it but 3-5 years tops is the working life of normal (not AGM) batteries.
 

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It also appears you have an 05' which are notorious for having excess resistance in the wiring connector to the front doors. Volvo completely changed both the style & material for the connectors in 06'. Do you have errant outside temp readings as well? Clean & grease the door jam connector as a start.

The Volvo fix is time consuming & costly but worth it if you start to get multiple malfunctions of the door systems.
 

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It also appears you have an 05' which are notorious for having excess resistance in the wiring connector to the front doors. Volvo completely changed both the style & material for the connectors in 06'. Do you have errant outside temp readings as well? Clean & grease the door jam connector as a start.

The Volvo fix is time consuming & costly but worth it if you start to get multiple malfunctions of the door systems.
I never had problem with door lock but my ambient temp. sensor got fixed the exact same way - removed door cover, disconnected connector, cleaned and refitted - been working like a charm ever since. I used to get below zero temp readings when it was 35+ Celcius outside. Ridiculous, thought maybe AC malfunctioned because of this, as well. Turns out it is just empty but nonetheless, it has been months since this repair and my local dealer only offered me temp sensor with mirror for 100€ - costly repair for nothing but 30min and no money involved job on my own.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks guys. I have no outside temp reading issues, but will try and clean the connectors anyway.

Theshadow27, I think you are right about your theory. Although I have set my car to one-stage locking, so all doors open and lock every time. But I think it is related to how much battery juice is left and some resistance in the driver's door. If this is correct, a new battery should fix it.
 
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