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Oh wow! I don't blame you for just wanting to replace the entire rack.

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Just to add a note:
  • I was having a low RPM stumble from time to time that caused the car to bog down while setting off from a stop. The oil change, additives, new air filter, and new fuel filter seem to have gotten rid of this issue. My guess is the new fuel filter is the main reason. - Changing out the spark plugs should make this even happier.
  • The engine overall is much quieter than before. Much less mechanical noise overall, but just as much exhaust noise (IPD exhaust).
  • I've been hitting full boost (1bar) quicker than before. Overall signs that the engine is much happier than before.
  • I have cruise control back!
  • I hooked up the car to VIDA and crawled through everything and cleared codes and browsed through the stored codes from the past year or so.
  • I got a CEL the other day for a possible faulty Evap Purge Valve. Cleared the code to see if it comes back.
  • I need to replace the front right 4C accelerometer as its voltage is out of range, but that whole system will be going when I install the KW's anyway.

Anyone have any idea which steering rack is the correct one to order for a 2005 T5? Non-R, non speed sensitive steering. I read somewhere a while ago that they changed rack design (fluid fittings) somewhere in the middle of 2005, which is the main reason for confusion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 · (Edited)
So the T5 M66 has been down for a few weeks now. 147k miles. Catastrophic failure of the rear shock mount.

I did a lot of research about this and didn't find any reference to Volvo shock towers failing unless rust was the main culprit.
My issue was a complete failure of the rear anchorage top cracking off, and also cracking the inner trunk metal panel mounting points. Definitely bad and ugly. This happened relatively quickly, as I inspected the area for suspension creeking/squeaks maybe 100 miles before I found this:

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Took a while to plan how to tackle this as it's not a trivial fix. Also took a while to figure out which parts I needed to order as no one really knows much about FWD cars that have 4C from factory. Since I have been planning for a while to switch over to KW v2 coilovers, as well as replacing my leaking steering rack, I figured this was the time to do it all for a full suspension/steering refresh to give this 147k mile super rare 2005 S60 T5 M66 car originally with 4C a new lease on life.

Steering rack has been leaking for a long long time now since ~4 years ago (25k miles) when my passenger front wheel bearing failed and heated the whole area up past its limits, and melted some seals in the steering rack. I've just been refilling the power steering fluid every time it got low since it started leaking and always cleaned up the leak area every time I had the wheels off. Large mess with caked on dirt over all the suspension components.
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The steering rack leak also continually soaked the subframe mount, which has made it very very soft over the years, so those will be swapped out also.

I've been collecting parts for a full suspension rebuild for over a year now, but now is the time to put it all to good use and get it out of my storage cabinets/shelves. FCPEuro has definitely taken a lot of my money. Here's a bulk of it stacked in/on/around other random car/garage/house projects and parts:

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KW V2 Coilovers for FWD P2
Delrin Front Subframe Bushings from Viva

New Front Lower Trailing Arm Bushings Front and Rear (XC90 Design)
New Front Swaybar Endlinks
New Front Lower Ball Joints
New Front Strut Spring Top Mounts (XC90 Design)
New Front Strut Top Bearings
New Front Strut Top Washers

New Rear Anchorages (L+R)
New Rear Upper Shock Mounts
New Rear Trailing Arm Bushings (Powerflex poly)
New Rear Spring Upper and Lower Isolators
New Rear Swaybar Endlinks

Used Steering Rack from Erie Volvo (80k miles, Lifetime Warranty)
New Inner Steering Tie Rods
New Outer Steering Tie Rods
New Steering shaft Lower Coupler
New Subframe Plastic Washers

New Front Motor Mount
New Rear Motor Mount
New Side Motor Mount
New Poly Inserts for the Front Transmission Torque Mount

To repair the inner trunk panel area, I'll be welding the cracked areas back on.

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This inner trunk panel area isn't really under any load since the shock force is supposed to be taken up by the Anchorage along with the Upper Shock Mount. This the process I'll use:
  • Tack Weld the broken parts back on
  • Drill holes at the end of the cracks
  • Use angle grinder and trench out the cracked area
  • Fill all cracked areas with weld
  • Cut a donor panel from a wrecked car and spot weld it on top of the cracked/welded parts
  • Tig weld everything and then paint to protect the whole area, top and bottom/inside and out.

I have about 2 days over the past few week digging into everything and have removed most of what I need.
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Removed everything shown above. I left the front struts in the car to hold up the knuckles but those will obviously also be coming out. I didn't want to have to disconnect the brakes or remove the axle bolts, so leaving the strut in there holds everything together for now. I also left the rear upper Y arm and the rear toe arm as I didn't plan to replace them, nor any of the associated bushings. All the bushings in the rear look pretty good with the exception of the Front Trailing Arm bushing, which I'll be replacing with a Powerflex Poly one. I'm doing this to avoid having to drop the rear subframe as it's unnecessary at this point. I also didn't want to remove the rear brake lines.

Here's a closeup of the Rear Anchorage failure. FCPEuro and Volvo said they have never seen a failure like this, so hoping that documenting this helps someone else in the future.

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I had to purchase a bunch of tools for this job including an Engine Hoist (Harbor Freight Pittsburg 2 ton) and a second pair of jack stands (Harbor Freight Daytona Aluminum). I had to get better lines and fittings for my Air Compressor to run my 1/2 impact (Harbor Freight Earthquake XT) that made removing all of these parts a breeze. I'll be using a 12 ton press to remove/install all of the bushings. This definitely added a good amount of extra expense to this project, but it should all be worth it and I know I'll be using all the new tools in the future.

Sourcing the correct steering rack for my car was a tricky task as I found a ton of old and unreliable data on the forums. I was going to go with a rebuilt rack, but decided I didn't want to chance it and potentially have to do all this work again, thus I went with a used rack from Erie Volvo out of an 88k mile 2006 car that comes with a Lifetime Warranty. I gave Erie a call and they walked me through identifying which rack I needed - in my case a speed sensitive rack with clamp fittings. Super easy process and I was able to order directly on the phone and the rack arrived 3 days later well packaged in a large box with inner and outer tie rods (that I'll be replacing anyway) for $325 including shipping.

The only bolts/nuts I had trouble removing were the steering tie rods from the knuckle. Mine were completely seized, and since I'll be replacing everything there anyway, I cut it off with an angle grinder.

Removing the front subframe was a real pain. I would not recommend it unless you really have to. Some issues I ran into:
  • Grab a friend to help as it's a ton easier with a second person.
  • You have to support the front of the car from the pinch welds. If you have the optional Aero Kit side skirts, these have to come off as the plastic panel under the side skirts covers the pinch weld.
  • Rear engine mount lower bolt was impossible to get to. I have larger IPD track sway bars so I wasn't able to squeeze in a swivel socket like the FCPEuro video shows.
  • Rear engine mount upper nut requires a lot of extensions and flex joints to get from the top of the engine. You'll need 2 people for this.
  • Fuel return line was snaked around the subframe and UNDER the steering rack and sway bar.
  • Power Steering front hard line mounting bracket on the front of the subframe was very difficult to reach so I just ended up cutting it and will replace (generic rubber isolated mounting clamp)
  • Front Passenger brake line runs behind the steering rack and is a tight to bend out of the way when dropping
  • Exhaust mounting bracket on the back of the subframe cannot be removed and gets in the way of a lot of things. 1 mounting bolt is located under the steering rack.
  • Large wiring bundle is attached with a bolt to the front of the subframe and is difficult to access

For reinstalling everything, I'll be doing the following:
  • Cleaning, removing all the rust and repainting all suspension arms and the subframe with Steel-it Gray
  • Replacing any suspension bolts that doesn't look great
  • Deep cleaning of the wheel wells and under the car from years of dirt, Northeast winter salt, etc
  • Wire brushing all the bolts/nuts - replacing where necessary
  • Repairing any undercoating issues under the car

Hope to have this all completed in the next 2 weeks before leaving on a family vacation. Not sure if I'll be able to find the time though since I have a good amount of suspension work to do on the family hauler truck as we're taking that on the long 2500 mile road trip.

Any tips and suggestions, please let me know.

Cheers!
 
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Good luck man! That sounds like quite a job, but it'll be very productive once completed. You have it will mapped out, so I have good confidence you'll get through it will. Hopefully within the next couple of weeks.

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Her less fancy sister (another 1 of 72) says good luck!
Reading this makes me want to check these issue spots twice over.
I am grateful of your documentation here in case I need to reference it in the future. Fingers crossed.
Would love to see those KW2s on mine :LOL:, but I'm also super excited to see the end result and hear your opinion of their feel.

Good luck man!
 

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2005 S60 T5 M66 with 4c
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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Good luck man! That sounds like quite a job, but it'll be very productive once completed. You have it will mapped out, so I have good confidence you'll get through it will. Hopefully within the next couple of weeks.

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Thanks! Hoping I have everything figured out but will always take any and all suggestions.

Her less fancy sister (another 1 of 72) says good luck!
Reading this makes me want to check these issue spots twice over.
I am grateful of your documentation here in case I need to reference it in the future. Fingers crossed.
Would love to see those KW2s on mine :LOL:, but I'm also super excited to see the end result and hear your opinion of their feel.

Good luck man!
I wouldn't be concerned really at all unless you have 4C shocks. There are 2 points of failure before the catastrophic failure I had, being the shock just blowing out, then the upper shock mount rubber ripping. I will isolate it to 4C being the culprit. Also, 25k miles ago, when I swapped out the original top shock mounts due to a failure (where the top shock mount correctly failed before breaking anything else), I trusted the Volvo dealership with Part Numbers and they gave me the standard top shock mounts, Volvo P/N 30666271. I just chalked this up to Volvo updating the part like they regularly do. In reality, my 4C specific rear suspension setup needed Volvo P/N 30736512. The 2 parts are definitely different (I still have one of the originals off my car) but I have no idea what those differences actually mean IRL.

I've heard great things about the KW's and everyone who gets them swears by them. I have a good friend with a 2007 R who has them too and he's been very happy also. After having them for 2 years now in the box, it's about time to put them on.

Today, I got an hour to clean up a lot of the parts and stripped the subframe of everything. Will commence a deep cleaning and removing the subframe bushings in preparation for Delrin.

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FYI, Air tools are a major win for anyone who has the space and $. I'm running my 1/2 Harbor Freight Impact off of a cheapo Harbor Freight 8 gallon air compressor and it's amazing. Anything larger would be great, but just shows you can get into the air tool game for not that much $. A good quality electric impact would work great too. I was planning on getting the Dewalt DCF899 since I already have plenty of batteries and other yellow tools, but not having to spend that ~$200 right now was a welcome relief. I'll probably still get one in the future but $ is a little tight due to all the recent parts and tool purchases.
 

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Roger that! No 4C for me, which has always given me a bit of relief.
You definitely deserve to feel those KWs. Regarding the Delrin bushings, I just did them on mine. Much more of a PIA while the subframe is attached, but an air saw does amazing work to cut the centers out. Don't forget your mask, as massive plumes of toxic rubber fumes will be billowing! Once done, I can say its one of the cheapest and most impactful suspension upgrades. You'll probably be on 3 wheels on any slight curb :LOL:! Great updates, we all appreciate them, especially us T5ers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
I'm slowly chipping away at everything that needs to get done with the T5.

I found a local junkyard that had a junked 2006 S80 and they agreed to cut out the trunk strut mounting panels for a fair price. Hoping to get those in the coming days.

Decided to get through replacing some of the bushings tonight after the kid went to sleep.

First had to clean off the work table so I organized and labeled all the hardware to put away for now.
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Front LCA's ready for new bushings (with the newer designed XC90 HD rear bushing)
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I purchased a bunch of large sockets from Pep Boys just undersized from the bushings race sizes. I also had to purchase a 2in steel pipe from Home Depot for the front bushings.

I have a 12 ton press from Harbor Freight that I've had for like 15 years. Not the best but cheap and works well enough. A good investment for anyone if you have the space.

Setup for pressing out the front LCA rear bushing:
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Setup for pressing out the front LCA front bushing was much more complicated. I had to press the arm off the bushing, which is a little bit backwards, but it was the only way I could figure out how to do it. 2in Pipe on the top pressing down on the arm with the bushing supported from the bottom.
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Pressing the 4 bushings out took about 30 min. It's pretty quick after having all the correct sockets/pipes needed. Cleaned bushing races with some scotch brite to clean out the crud.
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Pressing in the new bushings is the opposite. Rear position is pretty straight forward. I marked the bushings how far they have to stick out on one end.
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The front position was a little more difficult to line up, but I marked the LCA's with a straight edge and transferred those marks to the new bushing. Also had to mark roughly how far to press the arm down onto the bushing. I checked after getting close to get it perfect.
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New bushings pressed in and ready to be installed on the subframe.
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Removing the subframe bushings was a real pain, even with the subframe off the car. 3 of them came out with a large dead-blow and a lot of pounding. For the 4th and last one, I had to cut out the center section and cut through the sleeve with a hack saw. Then it finally gave way after a few whacks. Super glad I removed the subframe from the car as this would have been terrible lying under the car with no space to work.
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My subframe bushings were fine-ish except the rear passenger that has been getting soaked in power steering fluid for years now (ironically, this was also the bushing I had to cut out). I've also had IPD's poly subframe inserts for years. They look like they're still fine but Delrin is definitely better. I justified the cost difference since it made sense to replace these with the subframe out of the car. I had to purchase 3 more subframe bushings and then a new set of poly inserts. The cost was almost the same as the Delrin set, so picked that up from Viva.
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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
I could have used the press to install the Delrin subframe bushings, but holding the subframe was difficult alone. I conveniently had a bushing press tool for a Mercedes W210 chassis (that also works for my W463 radius arm bushings) that fit perfectly. Installing all 4 Delrin bushings took maybe 20 minutes and was super easy with hand tools.
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Delrin Subframe bushings from Viva installed.
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What's next:
  • Cleaning the subframe and all the front and rear arms. May throw on a quick coat of paint on everything to keep it all clean and protect them from the elements.
  • Replace the inner and outer tie rods on the new (used) steering rack and setting it exactly the same as the current rack (to be able to limp it to an alignment)
  • Attach front LCA's and steering rack to the subframe
  • Install it back into the car.
  • Install Rear Trailing Arm Poly Bushing
  • Weld on the broken pieces on the trunk shock locating holes.
  • Plug weld in the trunk panel support plates from the junked car.
  • Install everything back in the rear
  • Set up and install the KW V2's

Hope to get all of this done by next weekend to finally get the T5 back on the road after almost 6 weeks now. All of this work should give the car a new lease on life and many many more miles to come. When everything is finished, I'll tally up what all of this work has cost and share.

Cheers.
 
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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
Picked up these chunks from the local junkyard. I told them I only wanted the top panels, but they disassembled the entire car and cut the frame rails out. I guess doing too much is much better than doing too little on their end. Price was more than I wanted to pay, but I didn't have many options. These came out of a 2006 S80 FWD that was in pretty good condition (body wise)

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Also got some more work finished tonight in the garage.

Started digging into the steering rack. Measuring out outer tie rod placement on the old rack to set up the new rack.
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Couldn't properly torque or remove some components with the rack free so I decided to assemble the subframe. Did some light cleaning with Simple Green and a scotch brite pad but it came out fine overall. I'm not going for show quality here and need to balance my free time and the schedules to get this car back on the road.
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LCA's bolted up and torqued down. I reused the OEM bolts and will make up my own torque spec instead of the TTY spec. Then mark them with a paint marker to make sure they don't move. I'm not too concerned about reusing them, but your opinion may be different.

Also bolted up the IPD sway bar and regreased the poly bushings with waterproof marine EP grease. * Just a note, the rear lower ball style engine mount is very difficult to reach with the larger sway bar, so I pushed the bar as far towards the rear of the car as possible to hopefully create enough room in there to sneak a socket extension when reinstalling the engine mount. I may just attach the engine mount now and deal with the top bolt instead but we'll see when the subframe goes back in.

Ran into an issue with my replacement steering rack and the new steering shaft joint. The shoulder on the rack input doesn't go low enough for the steering shaft joint to sit correctly. below you can see where the bolt goes through the assembly and how it isn't lined up when sitting on top of the shoulder. The second picture shows where the shoulder needs to be for the bolt to be able to fit through. I think I'll have to file it down until it fits, which sucks. Has anyone else run into this issue?
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I didn't get a chance to install the steering inner and outer tie rods but those will be up tomorrow, with the hope of getting the subframe mounted back in the car on Wednesday.

Cheers all!
 
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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Finished up building the subframe tonight, as well as solved the steering shaft issue I detailed in the last post.

There are apparently 2 different types of steering shafts. One that has a counterbore and one that does not. I wrote a message to Erie Vo-Vo and they sent out the correct steering shaft at no cost. I didn't expect it at all, so super happy I went with them for the used steering rack. A+ for service so far. There aren't any leaks so far but the rack isn't full of fluid yet. One without the counterbore that I got from FCPEuro (P/N 3409939) is on the top, and the correct one for my rack with the counterbore is on the bottom.
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The rubber boot around my steering rack input shaft on the used replacement rack was in pretty bad shape with lots of cracks. This part is not available from anyone separate from a new steering rack. I also looked around a few local stores trying to find something that could be used, but in the end I decided to just 3D print one. The fit is actually better than the OE one and it is really just a dust/dirt shield.
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I removed all of the inner and outer tie rods to replace with new parts. All from FCPEuro.
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Everything torqued down and marked, ready to put back into the car.
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Great to see all the clean new parts on there. Can't wait to have everything back together and finally drive the T5 again.
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Aiming to get most stuff installed back on the car and the rear welded together this weekend.

Cheers!
 
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Looks like it's coming together nicely!! Great work dude!

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
Got the subframe installed in the car today solo. Total time was about 5 hours including setup and clean up.

Lots of little things to pay attention to when dropping or reinstalling the subframe so I'll add some notes to the other info that is out there on the web. My notes are for the FWD chassis (T5) so AWD cars will be much more involved.

Replace the Front Engine Mounts while you're down there. They're not expensive and a real pain to install without the subframe dropped/removed.
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I used a furniture moving dolly to position the subframe, and some cardboard to slide it around on the engine hoist legs. If you're doing this with an engine compartment brace, it should be easier without the legs in the way. I used a hydraulic jack on the rear and a screw jack on the front and it balanced pretty well. Once you're able to line up the ball joints, things end up lining up pretty well.
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I ran into a half issue where My passenger side engine mount was hitting the engine block/mounting surface as my engine hoist didn't lift the engine straight up. I removed the engine mount and continued to bolting up the subframe, then dropped the engine down slowly making sure to line up all the holes.
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A few super annoying little things that I didn't see documented:

There is a single 10mm sized hex bolt on the front part of the subframe close to the oil filter, on the front side of the car. You'll have to drop the plastic lower cowl to be able to access the bolt (2x 10mm hex bolts on both sides of the car). This bolt holds down a large wiring harness that sits on top of the next bolt you have to remove.
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The other bolt you have to remove is right by the oil filter, on top of the subframe. The tube clamp holds down the power steering line that goes from the power steering pump all the way around the engine bay to the steering rack. Best way to reach it is to use a ratcheting 10mm wrench, and access the top of the subframe by folding back the plastic wheel well liner. It's a tight squeeze. You'll have to push aside the large wiring harness from right on top of the bolt.
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The rear motor mount is pretty tough since there is so little space in there. I also have larger IPD sway bars which makes the FCPEuro method of sticking a flex socket through the space between the sway bar and the subframe impossible. You have to secure the top nut first (both front and back) since the motor mounts sit at an angle and it wouldn't be possible to raise the subframe and align the bolt. I ended up putting some blue loctite on the lower rear engine mount bolt, passed a socket and flex above the sway bar and used 1/4" ratchet extensions in between the sway bar and subframe. I marked the bolts also but do not expect to have any issue with the bolt falling out. In this same space you have to connect the steering rack lines, plug in the steering rack, and snake around the O2 sensor wire and connect all that back together.
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Last thing to remember is to line up the steering rack in the driver's footwell and make sure everything fits correctly. I positioned the steering rack as 'straight' as I could. The steering shaft only goes on one way onto the steering rack input shaft, and the keyway that attaches to the steering wheel shaft has 2 flats, so can either be right, or 180 degrees off. I loosely put it together and hand tightened the bolt as I was finishing up everything under. Will come back later and bolt everything down.
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New bits being installed make me very happy. Some of these parts I've had for over 2 years, so them finally making it on the car is a big win.
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And an under view. Back now on just jack stands. But now 1 of the 2 major projects (steering rack) with the car is done.
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I wasn't able to knock out the lower ball joints, so I decided just to leave them as they're still in good shape. If in the future I need to replace them, I already have the parts from FCPEuro with an Axel bolt and I'll pick up an air chisel, but not a high priority now. I also didn't replace the lower transmission bushing with poly (from IPD) that I've had for years and years. I'll do this eventually after I cut out the OE bushing since you can't do this with a press. Trans side is already poly.

Up next will be to remove the front struts (now that the hubs/spindles are supported by the LCA's and steering tie rods) to disassemble since I need that stupid metal cup washer to assemble the KW's. I should have just ordered a new one but forgot to and don't feel like waiting for them to ship.

Lots to do on the rear but it should be pretty straight forward after I practice my welding on the scrap parts from the junkyard.

I'm hoping to get everything finished this coming week. Then right after digging into suspension bushings on the truck.

Cheers!
 

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Just of note, I replaced my front LCAs and ball joints without any air tools or the special tool to repress the new ball joints into the mounts for them. Actually wasn't too difficult for me since with my CA car, no rust or salt corrosion to deal with. Your milage may very of course, but just as an FYI when you do tackle it. The key is putting the new ball joints into the freezer overnight to help with pressing them in easier. Anyways, great work so far and excellent detailed posts and write-ups here.

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
Little bits of progress every few days keeps this project going.

After working all day on the house and in the yard, I got a few minutes to cut out the rear shock tower top plates from the junk yard parts.

Parts are only rough cut for now but I'll work on refining the exterior shape and where the plug welds will go.
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Also have plenty of scrap metal to practice welding on as it has been a while since using my old school scratch and start miller TIG.

Plate fits perfectly on the car and will now be double thick on both sides to avoid any freak part failures in the future.
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Part isn't sitting completely flat because of that threaded stud on the left side, but the fit is perfect and plug welding should be a good easy solution for this.

Cheers!
 
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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
And the T5 is driving again! Took the car into work today and everything seems tight and installed correctly. The KW's ride SIGNIFICANTLY better than the OE 4C shocks. I set them at 5 clicks off full soft and the ride is sporty and firm, but not jarring even on my trip on the NJ Turnpike and into Manhattan, which is saying a lot.

Welding went well overall, but space is so cramped in there it was tough to find a comfortable position. Other than that, everything pretty much bolted up nicely with the exception of the Powerflex rear trailing arm inboard bushings. Those were a pain.

I'll add more pictures later as I didn't take too many.

Now time to put some more miles on the car to make up for the past 2 months!
 

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Nice job! Glad to hear you like the KWs! That’s gotta feel great to be driving it again after all the work.

How’d the rear ride height turn out?


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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
Nice job! Glad to hear you like the KWs! That’s gotta feel great to be driving it again after all the work.

How’d the rear ride height turn out?


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Hey Tristan,

Definitely feels great and relief to be driving it again without any weird noises. Took a long time to torque everything properly but that's all part of the game.

Rear ride height for the KW's is actually right about stock. I adjusted the fronts 2/3 to the top and it actually sits slightly higher than the OE 4C shocks/springs and levels out the ride almost perfectly.

Did you dial in any negative camber on the front using the strut camber top bolts? What ride height do you have yours set to? I wonder if it would make sense to dial in some negative camber and lower the front to, say, half the threaded length. Will of course need an alignment after changing so many things and will see where I land. Will put many miles on it in the short-term to get things settled and adjustments finished before the alignment and getting the sideskirts mounted back on.
 

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Hey Tristan,

Definitely feels great and relief to be driving it again without any weird noises. Took a long time to torque everything properly but that's all part of the game.

Rear ride height for the KW's is actually right about stock. I adjusted the fronts 2/3 to the top and it actually sits slightly higher than the OE 4C shocks/springs and levels out the ride almost perfectly.

Did you dial in any negative camber on the front using the strut camber top bolts? What ride height do you have yours set to? I wonder if it would make sense to dial in some negative camber and lower the front to, say, half the threaded length. Will of course need an alignment after changing so many things and will see where I land. Will put many miles on it in the short-term to get things settled and adjustments finished before the alignment and getting the sideskirts mounted back on.
Nice, I’m sure it may settle a little too.

Yeah i actually have those front camber/caster plates and I think I had a couple degrees of negative camber although I can’t remember the exact number. My alignment guy did decided to dial in the front camber using strut to knuckle mounting bolt because adjusting the camber plate would also adjust caster at the same time.

Ride height is as low as I can get away with without being inconvenient. Although my suspension is apart and I’m putting in different springs so I may change it up.


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And the T5 is driving again! Took the car into work today and everything seems tight and installed correctly. The KW's ride SIGNIFICANTLY better than the OE 4C shocks. I set them at 5 clicks off full soft and the ride is sporty and firm, but not jarring even on my trip on the NJ Turnpike and into Manhattan, which is saying a lot.

Welding went well overall, but space is so cramped in there it was tough to find a comfortable position. Other than that, everything pretty much bolted up nicely with the exception of the Powerflex rear trailing arm inboard bushings. Those were a pain.

I'll add more pictures later as I didn't take too many.

Now time to put some more miles on the car to make up for the past 2 months!
I struggled with those Powerflex bushings too, but the end result was worth it. Had me cursing a few late night! If you do the front camber bolts post it up, I've been looking at adding those next.

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