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2005 S60 T5 M66 with 4c
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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Really liking your T5. Was the headlight projector conversion difficult to do?
Not that bad. Hardest part was getting the projector shroud to fit correctly as it requires shaving on the bottom and then fixing it to the housing.

Second hardest part was figuring out the wiring as halogen equipped cars' headlights are driven by PWM and you have to filter that out before making a custom wiring harness.

I should do a write up of how I did the whole system but just don't have the time.
 

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Wow! You car is super sharp and tastefully modded indeed! I will keep an eye out for it as coincidentally, I also work in Princeton Junction. And another fun fact is my car also came from Volvo of Princeton.Do you commute to work in the T5 in the winter? I don't. the brine on the Interstate is awful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Wow! You car is super sharp and tastefully modded indeed! I will keep an eye out for it as coincidentally, I also work in Princeton Junction. And another fun fact is my car also came from Volvo of Princeton.Do you commute to work in the T5 in the winter? I don't. the brine on the Interstate is awful.
I'm not in Princeton Junction anymore unfortunately. I moved back to NYC and have been in Brooklyn for the past few years. May move back though at some point. I drive my car year round in any weather. Blizzaks for the winter works wonders.
 

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Second hardest part was figuring out the wiring as halogen equipped cars' headlights are driven by PWM and you have to filter that out before making a custom wiring harness.

I should do a write up of how I did the whole system but just don't have the time.
Are they though?? I have halogen headlights (2004 model) and did a lot of research on HID conversion in stock housing which I do currently run. S40's of the same vintage have PWM but you must either drill a shunt in the REM and/or do some other modifications to run an HID kit, otherwise you'll blow out the wiper motors and possibly other things and the kit may not even work or be powered right on top of that. It was determined that at least the pre facelift S60's do NOT have PWM, but it's possible that the '05 and later ones do, especially those with ABL...

Good to know though that the modification to add the projectors wasn't too bad. :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 · (Edited)
Are they though?? I have halogen headlights (2004 model) and did a lot of research on HID conversion in stock housing which I do currently run. S40's of the same vintage have PWM but you must either drill a shunt in the REM and/or do some other modifications to run an HID kit, otherwise you'll blow out the wiper motors and possibly other things and the kit may not even work or be powered right on top of that. It was determined that at least the pre facelift S60's do NOT have PWM, but it's possible that the '05 and later ones do, especially those with ABL...

Good to know though that the modification to add the projectors wasn't too bad. :thumbup:
Yeah. The P2 facelifted S60s that came originally with halogens did indeed have PWM to pow erthe headlight low beams. But the system didnt' have the same problems as the P1 S40s with blowing other things.

Some people get away with HID PNP kits without issues. It really depends on the HID PNP kit as I used to have one and didn't have problems (with the stock halogen housings).

After switching to the R headlights and HID ballasts, I used really slow acting/cheap relays and the hysteresis of the relays was actually slower than the PWM signal, so I didn't have a problem. Fast forward to actually buying a relay/fuse box and wiring everything properly, with better relays, it became a big problem. I had to wire in a voltage regulator that took the fluctuating voltage and put out a constant 12V so the HID ballasts wouldn't go crazy (on off flicker). I also complicated the issue by making the whole thing pretty much plug and play into the stock wiring harness, and also running a separate relay circuit for the DRLs to have bright LED bulbs.

I haven't written anything up on it since my case is such a far-left fielder, but if there's interest I can write something up in more detail with pictures.

I also want to try to start messing with the 4C system as the system itself is really terrible. I want to make it more adjustable than just preset settings but that will require a good amount of datalogging, testing, programming, as well as some clever wiring and hardware. I can do it, but again, I'm gonna venture a guess to say that there's only a small handful of non-R owners that have 4C and none that would be interested in a system as such.
 

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That's some great info and great to know!! I wonder if the PWM is present on say a pre-face lift S60 like mine if I were to try to go to post face lift headlights or even ABLs... But I'm thinking that PWM is inherent to the car itself rather than the housing used. The S40 PWM issues are with the 2004.5 and up models. My 2001 that I used to have did not have that issue fortunately.

Anxious to see what you plan and come up with the 4C system, keep us posted and keep up the great work! :cool:
 

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2005 S60 T5 M66 with 4c
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Discussion Starter · #48 · (Edited)
As is with any car after having it for a while and doing lots of mods, I've been considering listing the thing for sale.

Some things I need to take care of for maintenance related items this spring such as suspension bushings, a clunking sway bar linkage, steering rack boot, and other misc things.

And I also never got around to do a stage 2 tune.

Any thoughts on what I should list this for? Anyone interested a super rare S60 T5 M66?

2005 S60 T5 M66 with 4C
Silver Exterior over Black Interior
1/72 S60 T5 M66's in 2005. Even more rare since this one has 4C. (Have heard of maybe a handful of 4C cars in 10+ years on the volvo forums)
136k miles (Purchased in 08/2010 with 18k miles)
Prior owner was [email protected] Motorsports who owned the car from new. Car was previously listed on Swedespeed also.

All maintenance since 20k miles done by me (Mechanical/Automotive Engineer)
Oil change every 5k miles, always with Pennzoil Ultra/Platinum Full Synthetic + OEM Volvo Filters
TB/WP/Serpentine Belt Done in 2015 at 108k miles
Several Sets of tires, brakes, wipers, spark plugs, air filters, cabin filters, fluid changes, etc.
Windshield changed out at 120k miles.
New Pass Front Wheel Hub/bearing (121k miles)
New Upper Rear Shock Mounts (121k miles)

Exterior is in ok condition. Body has some small dents and scratches (shouldn't be an issue to get them out) F+R Bumpers and Side Skirts need some work and paint as the car is street parked. Paint always protected with sealant. Not a garage queen by any means.

Front 4C shocks replaced under warranty at 80k miles, along with some other small things (have receipts)

Sport Kit all around
Pretty nice interior, no rips or tears or any real wear
5% tint on rear pass windows, rear glass, and sun roof
Matte Carbon wrapped vinyl interior trim pieces (vents, steering column, dash surround)
IPD DP + Oval Exhaust
R Calipers F+R and Rotors + SS Brake Lines and new Parking Brake Shoes
FC04 17x8+35 wrapped in Continental DW tires with TPMS (3k miles on new wheels, 8k miles on tires - 2 years)
Sport Edition 17x7.5 wrapped in Bridgestone Blizzak WS80 tires (beat up winter wheels, 8k miles on tires - 2 years)
Snabb Intake Tube
Snabb Short Shifter Stalk and Delrin Bushings
IPD Track Sway Bars F+R and IPD Endlinks
Custom S60R headlights, retrofitted with projectors and LED DRLs, along with custom wiring harness and separate fuse and relay box
Custom wiring for USB-C Power
Custom wiring for Avox X1 (front and rear dash cam + reverse camera in the rear view mirror)
Custom LED strip in the trunk

Probably a ton more things I'm forgetting that I'll update as time goes on.

Any input welcome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 · (Edited)
I've been getting a max boost pressure of 5-6psi lately in all gears with a pretty big dip in power at >50% throttle in the 2-4k RPM range, so it's about time to overhaul everything now that I have close to 140k miles.
Also the 4C suspension is on its way out. ~60k on the fronts and ~140k on the rears. Replacing the whole system with 4C just doesn't make sense as it'll cost around $1400, soooo.....

Things are about to get a lot more...interesting...

Vehicle Car Transport Rallycross Compact car

KW V2s for T5 cars. Scored a pretty good deal on a set from the marketplace.

Also ordered a large box full of stuff from FCP to fix everything that needs replacing. Rather do it all at once while I'm in there.
Volvo PCV Beather Kit - KIT-504286
Volvo PCV Nipple - 30731007
Volvo PCV Banjo Bolt - 31325709
Volvo Copper O-Ring x2 - 11994
Lemforder Tie Rod Kit - KIT-511410
Snabb Intake Manifold Spacer - 31430474
Snabb Throttle Body Spacer - 31430474
Boost Pressure Valve - Pierburg 30670449
Side Engine Mount - Hutchinson 3074881
Front/Rear Engine Mount - Hutchinson 30778951
Front lower control arm rear bushing - Volvo 8630605
Front lower control arm front bushing - Lemforder 9465971
Front lower ball joint - Lemforder 274548
Forge CBV with Yellow Spring
Replace all Boost Pressure Lines

After this, all that's left are rear suspension bushings, replace the exhaust clamps, then Stage 2 Tune.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 · (Edited)
Spend a day to tackle the PCV job on my 140k mile 2005 S60 T5 M66. Turns out everything was pretty clean and clear so it most likely didn't need to be replaced! :facepalm: I followed the FCPEuro video suggestions/tutorial and it wasn't that bad.

Auto part Engine Vehicle Car Fuel line

Auto part Automotive engine part Carburetor Engine Metal

Tips for anyone planning on tackling this job:
1. Spend the money and buy a 10mm wobble socket extension before doing the job. That lower left intake manifold bolt is literally impossible to reach.
2. The PCV Banjo bolt can be reached with a standard 17mm socket/Wrench after you unbolt the intake manifold and angle it up slightly to reach the back side. I bought stubbies to try to reach it but couldn't get enough space to wedge my arms under the IM.
3. If you plan on replacing the gaskets (intake manifold and throttle body) with thicker ones from Snabb or other, you will have to grind off some of the intake manifold around the lower left intake manifold bolt. There was no space in there to begin with to reach the bolt, and with a thicker gasket, there is even less room. I ended up notching the intake manifold around the flange head bolt removing about 1/4" of material to make it fit.
4. All different length 1/4" drive extensions are your friends, as well as as many types of wobble fittings you can get.
5. An electric or pneumatic impact driver makes things much easier and faster.

Also replaced all the exhaust clamps on my IPD oval exhaust with new SS ones from here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
as all the ones supplied by IPD were completely rusted and crusting apart, causing the exhaust to come loose and leak.
I've had the exhaust for 4 years now on the car, through Northeast winters, salt, etc. I had to cut them off and they basically fell apart in my hands.

A few weeks ago I took out most of the top engine stuff to replace the CBV with a forge unit with yellow spring, as well as switching all the boost lines to silicone as well as installing a new OEM TCV. When digging into my boost leak, I found a good size hole in my lower intercooler inlet hose (passanger side) so replaced with a new volvo unit, so boosting back to 14.7psi feels great.

Next up is to change the fuel filter, all the motor mounts, refresh the suspension with new bushings, top mount bearings, and KW V2s, then time for a Stage 2 tune!

After that a full paint correction and eventually respraying the front and rear bumpers, as well as taking out some dings in the body from all these years of NYC street parking.
 

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Great write up and tips on that job!! Not quite to where I need to do that yet, but of course eventually. Sounds like from your write up that you just pull the I/M back, but not completely off, correct? Also besides reduced heat transfer through it, any advantage to the thicker gaskets?

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Yeah, after the intake manifold is loose, you can tip it "forward", the flange away from the block and you can get a 17mm socket under to remove the banjo bolt. You have to be careful not to tip the IM forward too much as you can snap the small hard line that the banjo bolt goes to (that you have to replace during the PCV job anyway).

As for the benefits of the Snabb IM and TB gaskets/spacers, besides thermal transfer, I don't really see much benefit. I did it because everything was going to be removed anyway so I figured why not. There will now be a change in how air flows between the TB/IM and IM/Head ports because the gasket isn't port-matched, but neither were the original steel gaskets. In the end, if the system doesn't leak, then I'll leave them. If I do develop any leaks in the IM area, I can always replace with stock gaskets (that I also have from the PCV kit)
 

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Sounds like you're taking good care of your T5, it looks great. I gotta get me a factory lip kit!

I like the look of the projector headlights and wouldn't mind doing that but with black housing, however I have zero wiring experience.

Keep up the good work!
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 · (Edited)
Sounds like you're taking good care of your T5, it looks great. I gotta get me a factory lip kit!

I like the look of the projector headlights and wouldn't mind doing that but with black housing, however I have zero wiring experience.

Keep up the good work!
Thanks! Every now and then I think of selling the thing but can never get myself to actually post up a for sale ad. So many other cars I'm looking at trying out in the next couple of years but the cost vs benefit ratio never works out in favor of something newer. 3rd Gen CTS-V, W463 G55, E60M5, RS7, E63s Wagon, etc.

Lip kit will be difficult to find unless you buy new from somewhere like Viva, where it gets really really pricey. Does completely change the look of the car though. Makes it look quite aggressive which I really like. Down side is the front is really low so you have to be pretty careful everywhere. S Florida may be fine but up here in the Northeast, I need to go diagonal up and down everywhere, not to mention the roads up here are definitely the worst collectively of anywhere in the country.

As for the headlights, it was kind of a pita to do. The wiring side of it isn't that bad as it's all 12V wiring which is pretty hard to mess up since you have relays and fuses everywhere. But retrofitting the projectors took some creativity and removing and reattaching the glass lenses onto the housings was nervous and careful work. I also went a step further and made my own relay harness for both low beams and DRLs all wired with automotive plugs, braided sheathing, shrink wrapped ends, remote mounted fuse/relay box with crimped terminals. Light output is night and day when comparing the two. I would never be able to go back to the halogen setup, even with a P&P HID kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 · (Edited)
Hi All,

So my time has come to leave the swedespeed family. I've been here for nearly 10 years and it's been quite a journey.

Moved 5 times, 2 different states, 3 different jobs, countless roadtrips, ~120k miles. I'll post up a more comprehensive overall review of my ownership, costs for everything over the past 10 years, and such for all newer/future owners who want a better glimpse of what ownership is like.

Won't be selling the T5M66 immediately, but plan is to fix up a few nagging things so the next owner has a good platform to start for the next 100k miles. Will list it on here in probably a month or two when the craziness of the world starts to settle down. Feel free to PM if you or anyone you know would be interested.

But for now, I'll leave you with a few pictures of its replacement:

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Mercedes-benz g-class Luxury vehicle
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Mercedes-benz g-class Sport utility vehicle
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Motor vehicle Automotive tire
2005 G55 90k miles. M113k 5.4L Supercharged V8, triple lockers, etc.

Lots of plans for this truck. It needs a good wash, chrome delete, some rust removal/coating, some minor paint work, lighting improvements, etc. It'll be sitting until the NJ DMV opens again in a few weeks (hopefully)
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 · (Edited)
Well, how things can change in 2 months.

Looks like I'll be keeping the Volvo for the near future. Plan is to have 2 cars now as the family will be moving out to Jersey and looking for a house. Sometimes crazy situations have a way of kicking you in the rear to get things moving, but it's a good thing in the end. Also I'll get to go garage shopping with a house attached.

A few things that need to be fixed on the T5M now that I have the space, tools, time, and a second car.

- Replace the Clutch Position Sensor
- Oil Change
- Replace Front Lower Control Arm Bushings
- Replace Front Right 4C Accelerometer
- Replace All Engine Mounts
- Replace Steering tie-rods
- Figure out how to swap in a rebuilt or used steering rack, or rebuild it using new seals
- Install softer suspension than the 4C system. KW's are probably overkill for what I need so those are for sale. Maybe go with Bilsteins and call it a day.
- Finally get a Stage 2 tune from Contrast or Steveo.
- Repainting the front and rear bumpers after almost 5 years of NYC street parking
- Full paint correction on the car, and removing a few dents + ceramic coat
- Refinishing the winter wheels and mounting TPMS sensors
- Maybe add a small 6.5" or 8" sub+amp to round out the bottom end of the system. Custom enclosure maybe inside the full size spare or on the side of the trunk.

I'll start getting through this list over the coming weeks to put the T5M back to a solid Stage 0 before the Stage 2 tune.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 · (Edited)
Wow it's been way too long and I really haven't done anything with the T5M since a year ago. That whole list one post above never happened, unfortunately, but that changes starting now! I've never been one to regularly update this thread, but I've been pretty good with the truck, so should continue the trend for the T5M. Aiming to get all of this done this year before winter rolls around.

Now having a second vehicle, a house, and a garage to work out of, no more excuses to not get all of these projects done.

Finally was able to take stock of of the random Volvo parts, new and old, I've collected/ordered over the years. Lots of things I forgot I had and lots of duplicate items I ordered when jumping from one location to the next. This is only the smaller things. Larger boxes are all still in my parents' garage.

124366

Windshield wipers, fuel filter, oil filters, engine mounts, ball joints, suspension bushings, gaskets, inner/outer tie rods, sway bar linkages, PA300 amp+wiring harness, spare interior vents, S60R leather door pulls...

124367

Liquid moly goodness and a new air filter and used K&N on the left side. Right side is all G55k parts and stuff.

145820 miles and counting. I started to use the car to commute into NYC for work a few days a week, so it's seeing regular miles now for the first time in years.

Started today with a quick wash.

124362


To recap the to do list:
  • Replace the Clutch Position Sensor
  • Oil Change - Liquid Moly Additives
  • Drain/Refill Transmission Fluid
  • New Brake Pads for R Brembo's F+R
  • Replace Front Lower Control Arm Bushings
  • Replace Front Right 4C Accelerometer
  • Replace All Engine Mounts
  • Replace Steering tie-rods
  • Replace Steering Rack
  • Install KW V2's
  • Install PA300 Amp
  • Install HU-850 and possibly replace all the speakers
  • Add load resistors to the HID circuit to get rid of headlight BOW
  • Readjust the IPD exhaust tips to sit centered in the bumper cutout
  • Sound deaden as much of the car as I can. It's pretty loud on the highway so anything will help.

Longer term to do list:
  • Do88 Drop-in Intercooler
  • Stage 2 tune from Contrast or Steveo.
  • Repainting the front/rear bumpers + side skirts after 5 years of NYC street parking dings and dents
  • Full paint correction on the car, and removing a few dents + ceramic coat
  • Refinishing the winter wheels and mounting TPMS sensors

Any other suggestions on things I should tackle? I don't think there's really that much more to add. A Stage 2ish is about as far as I want to take this car to maintain reliability, but still have some fun. Also need to split my car modding budget between the T5M and the G55k.

More to come...
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Had some time today to spend maintaining the Volvo. She's been neglected for a long time now, so today is the first step getting her back up to spec.

127089

LiquiMoly Oil Change Kit 5W40, LiquiMoly Engline Flush, Ceratec, Fuel Flush, Air Filter, Spark Plugs (will do this some other day), Fuel Filter, Windshield Wipers, Fuel Filler Cap Retaining Strap, Clutch Position Sensor

Getting everything done wasn't that bad. Took maybe 2 hours.

When under the dash replacing the faulty clutch position sensor, I found that the steering shaft boot had come off the floor. Anyone else ever have this happen before? I pushed the needle bearing back on the shaft and reattached the bottom of the boot to the floor cutout, but this may have been some of the steering clunking I have been hearing.
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Oil Change all went by without a hitch. Added the LiquiMoly Additives so will see how the engine responds to a cleaning.

Replaced the fuel filter - I have to say I may be guilty of actually never changing the fuel filter. I looked through my records and saw that I purchased the Bosch part in 2013 when the car had 82k miles. Being that I purchased the car when it had 22k miles, the most likely scenario is the removed fuel filter had 147k miles on it. Sure looks the part.
127091


Hoping my MPG's start to get back into the high 20's/low 30's with this part changed out.

I don't know if anyone is curious, but I snapped a picture of the aux fuse/relay box I installed for my bi-xenon projector retrofitted R head lights. I tapped into the headlight sub-harnesses and rectified the car headlight PWM signal to a steady state 12V. The setup has everything fused and on relays, controlling the low beams, high beams, and LED DRLs. Everything is soldered and run through wiring sheaths, with ends all terminated using shrink wrap. All connections are fed through the bottom of the aux fuse/relay box with correct crimp terminals to connect directly to the fuses or relays. All of this is tied down under the false panel next to the air box. I've had this set up exactly like this for ~4 years/22k miles and have not had any issues. Prior to adding the fuse/relay box, I have been running the retrofitted projectors for ~7 years/45k miles and besides bad relays, they've been issue free.
127092


Next up:
  • Spark Plugs (possibly coil packs)
  • KW V2 Coilover Install with all new rubber parts and bushings
  • LCA bushing replacement
  • Front lower ball joint replacement
  • Steering Rack replacement
  • Delrin Subframe Bushings
  • All 4 motor mounts
 

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I may have missed previously, but why the steering rack replacement?

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
I may have missed previously, but why the steering rack replacement?

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Steering rack has a slow leak (sometime fast leak) from the passenger side boot area. I am guessing it's the shaft seal. I would attempt to rebuild it myself but have never done so before and don't want to purchase specialty tools for a one time use, nor can I find a good writeup on what I need to purchase/how to do it. It's been leaking for a long time now, maybe 5 years, so I'd like to take care of it since I'll be dropping the subframe and refreshing all of the suspension anyway.

Pretty sure the leak started when my front passenger side wheel bearing went. I drove on it for a while and I'm guessing everything on the suspension corner heated up pretty badly, making its way down the steering tie rods, and messing up the seal. The leaking steering fluid also ruined one of my subframe bushings, thus the need to replace that also.
 
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