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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all!

Work and life in general being as busy as they have the last year have kept me from finding all the time to get the R to where I wanted. Those finicky Volvo gods were however paying attention, and I felt their wrath as soon as I decided to dig in and start with the lower control arm bushings a couple weeks ago. For those that don't know, those suckers need to be babied beyond what I ever could have imagined. Long story short, 8 hours later after repacking both inner joints and finally getting her rolling right the passenger side axle popped hard and loud, race shattered in the boot. Luckily 3 blocks from home, had it towed there and put her up on stands to assess the damage. I was able to find a set of axles on eBay from a manual R for $80 each, they should arrive tomorrow!

I plan at the moment is to take the broken set to a somewhat local axle rebuild shop to see if they can rebuild them since I am now axle paranoid!

Black Friday has netted me this list to do over the next couple days, have a head start with the OTE pipe removed, front bumper removed, engine bay all cleaned up and ready to roll!

Spark plug replacement with OEM Volvo plugs
Complete fluid change (Angle gear, transmission, etc.)
Strut cap replacement with XC caps on front corners (last attempt ended with my taking the whole assembly to the shop after I stripped the torx hole on the front drivers side)
Reroute boost gauge vacuum tube to the intake manifold where I can actually measure negative pressure.
Seafoam (already done prior to spark plug change due to the possibility of fouling)
New gaskets for OTE, oil cap, axles
Rebuilt broken switchblade key
Fixed passenger side 4c wire that I let dangle too close to the wheel that got torn up
Waiting on Vids/dice to arrive so I can do SUM calibration
Removed EBD
New axle bolts from Ipd
Installed new fog lights (old ones were rashed to hell)
Removed headlight wipers (never liked them)
Aluminum brace to fix saggy lip

I read this forum religiously and think I have all the info I need for this to go smoothly. After I finish I will be working on the upgrades! Short list includes-
CNT DP with custom exhaust (bit of a leak with the stock exhaust, it does sound nice though!
IPD lowering springs, or if it feeling ballsy KW coil overs with resistors if I can find it works with the 4C on my 04
New paint and refinishing of wheels/hood/front and rear bumper ( I will wait until after the winter)

Thanks all for this community and the resource you provide!:thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Update and looking for some input! Got through the entire list, both axles replaced no problem. After a quick test drive still had the "Chassis Settings Disabled" message after fixing the frayed 4c wire, will tear into it again and check my job. Just used heatshrink connectors to fix. Do I need to solder them?

About a mile in the "Anti-Skid Service Required" message came up and has persisted at every start of the car. Checked fuse, looks good. Tried resetting the ECM, code is still there. Cannot read it with my OBD scanner. Hopefully the DEM isn't toast. When attempting the Read/Rear fog for DEM it says "Not Checked". Done plenty of reading, and will take it to the dealer to see if they can read codes for a reasonable price this week. If not, my chinese clone should be in here in the next couple of weeks. Any other tips\ideas?

After getting the drivers side strut cap replaced, which looked fine, rattling still persisted. Changed end link because it was shot, rattling still continued, put it back up on stands today and the outer tie rod has lots of play and I can clank it pretty easily with my hands. This is the next obvious part. Anyone else have one fail and have massive rattling?

Thanks in advance for any input!
 

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For your Anti-skid service, message, Check if your AWD is working, put front wheels on something slipplery and rear wheels on tarmac, do a quick start you'll now quick enough if you're FWD only... The DEM might be fried if the car has been driven a lot in dense traffic, engine running and everything hot is terrible if you are not rolling, this car is a highway cruiser, not a traffic jam kind of car :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
AWD is back, anti skid is gone. Randomly when I started the car this morning that message was gone, did a test on the wet asphalt and no slip. Ran out of daylight to do the outer tie rod today but hopefully can get it done tomorrow morn. Will wait till this weekend to figure out the 4c issue...
 

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That is a huge list of things you've done.. Nice. We need you on this forum more!.. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
There is so much info available on these forums that its so easy to just lurk and search for everything you need. When it comes down To the nitty gritty minute details its easy to get lost and screw things up. I need to post more to ask these questions and poll the experiences from those who have been there already. I love getting lost in projects and finding my way out. It's a rewarding experience, even if the efficiency is nihil and the cost can usually outweigh what would be incurred by a professional handling it. In my professional and personal life it has become quite apparent that the only difference between you and the one paid to do it is the fact that they are paid. You do the right legwork, default to others expperience when needed and you can do it all.

On that note I should probably start a new thread to ask the following question. Has anyone had success reworking a 4C strut wire without solder? I used crimp connectors to cheat and am unsure if they will do the job.
Again thanks!
 

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As long as they have a good contact I would assume crimping should work fine and you said you used heat shrink so that should help hold things in place. You did a lot of work man. I hope the new tie rod end solves your clanking problem. Can't be much more left to replace.
 
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