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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've posted it in the classifieds. Here's the <A HREF="http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=63657" TARGET="_blank">link</A>.<p>I'm asking $1,100 and hopefully from someone local to Los Angeles. That's $150 less than directly from EST (which is where I bought it) and is literally brand new.<p>I've given up trying to get it installed since my bolts appear to be seized. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vortexmediagroup.com/images/banghead.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: Brand New EuroSport Tuning 3" downpipe for sale (GoSwedeRacer)

did you contact the bodyshop I recommended? They couldnt get the job done?
 

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Re: Brand New EuroSport Tuning 3" downpipe for sale (biotek)

Do you always quit that easily? Common dude its a few bolts, you can do it!!! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: Brand New EuroSport Tuning 3" downpipe for sale (awd)

A few bolts? Man consider youself lucky for not seeing my old 1985 Land Rover after I got it and it had spent the past few winters up in MN where they like to salt the roads.....alot! Need less to say I had to replace the whole chassis but not before going through numerous bottles of anti-sieze/liquid wrench/WD-40/whatever else is out there in my march to performance perfection!<p>Dont stop now, keep after it. I mean a DP is no small piece of equipment and a very considerable upgrade over stock and since you have already dropped the cash, unless you need $ ASAP then take your time and get it replaced with your new EST one! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/wink.gif" BORDER="0"> Make a deal with a shop...if they cant get it off and replaced then they cant get the $ and also not (and do trump this up alot) that "No Other Shop in the ENTIRE AREA could do it"...which is why you came to them...give them a challege them both technically and their pride and you will see tech's at their best <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: Brand New EuroSport Tuning 3" downpipe for sale (Tarheelvolvo)

get a tight fitting socket and put the ratchet right on the socket with no extensions and it will come off. Any extensions or poor angles and strip city. If you were in Texas i'd do it for free.
 

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Re: Brand New EuroSport Tuning 3" downpipe for sale (GoSwedeRacer)

FWD, I can see the AWD having less room at location. These are tight bolts and any angle whobble what have you will tend to cause the socket to strip the bolt head. You need a straight shot maybe with a flex head ratchet so the socket turns the bolt not piviots and strips the head. All in all it was not a hard job given the right tools.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Re: Brand New EuroSport Tuning 3" downpipe for sale (Oldman)

yeah, there is no space to use a non-extended wrench with the transfer case. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vortexmediagroup.com/images/banghead.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: Brand New EuroSport Tuning 3" downpipe for sale (GoSwedeRacer)

even with the drive shaft to the rear removed? It is the extension and the angle of torque that they induce that stips the head. Even my snap-on socket was loose on the head and I ended up using a cheapO autozone 6 point 10mm 1/2 drive socket as it had a tight fit (flank drive BTW).
 

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i already have a race cat and i only want the downpipe...i've talked to them and it seems that is not possible...does this sound curious to anybody else ?
 

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Seized bolts?? grinder and a drill dood... you're gonna give up on 10+ hp over a few bolts?? grind off the head and drill out the rest..
 

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I honestly havent been under the car yet.. but ive installed 3.5" and 4"dps on plenty of vehicles in the past. <br>I don't know if its applicable, but on some things (certain 6.0s and some d-max's) we have just cut the stocker off in the middle and the top fell out. On some of them (some of the 6.0s dependant on year) you need to use a porta-power to bend in the firewall 1/4" or so to get it to fit. A ratcheting wrench has also proved invaluable in the past due to its slim dimensions..... Would any of that work?<br>
 

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Slightly off topic but I just dropped my car off at the dealership this morning to have them look in to my downpipe issues. I got tired of dealing with the muffler shop and wasn't able to remedy it on my own (I actually had mine installed, so it's on the car) so I was willing to pay out my ears to have Volvo at least look in to the problem.<p>For those who don't know, the muffler shop I went to WAS able to get these bolts out, however after a couple weeks they became loose, I lost power, exhaust sounded bad, they retightened them, it was good for a week, and now it's back to being crappy again.<p>I should get the car back this evening so I'll reply with their findings. Unless of course they call me sooner than that!
 

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Re: (davidklaw)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>davidklaw</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">.... however after a couple weeks they became loose, I lost power, exhaust sounded bad, they retightened them, it was good for a week, and now it's back to being crappy again.<p></TD></TR></TABLE><p>Yes, please keep us posted. I hope they can explain to you why did they get loose in the first place especially not being only the first time.<p>How bad did the exhaust sounded? and how bad was the power lost? It must have been crazy.... Anybody else with the down pipe had this problem.<p>Thanks and good luck.<p> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/embeer.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Loctite Red is the solution -- along with appropriate nuts.
 

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Turns out that the exhaust being loose wasn't the case at all...<p>It was a defective cat (so says the dealer). Working with EST right now to resolve the problem so don't take anything away from this being a great product! When it was working it was working great!<BR><BR>
<i>Modified by davidklaw at 11:27 AM 8-16-2006</i>
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Re: (davidklaw)

Just wondering, but did they try replacing the sensor before determining it was the cat?<p>My Volvo dealers seem to want to blame everything under the sky except for Volvo.
 

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Re: (GoSwedeRacer)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>GoSwedeRacer</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just wondering, but did they try replacing the sensor before determining it was the cat?</TD></TR></TABLE><p>I doubt it, I asked them to inspect it more than do anything like replacing parts since I'm well over my warranty. But wouldn't a loss of power, loud exhaust noise and leaking sounds equate to something other than an O2 sensor? Basically, an O2 sensor being bad wouldn't cause the problems I'm having?<p>It seemed to me like the bad cat was creating a poor air/fuel mixture which was/is damaging the O2 sensors.
 
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