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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wow. I really did it this time. I've always wanted a classic car, and the stars aligned a few weeks ago and I ended up the proud new owner of a '66 122s. I am also the proud new owner of a 2 month old daughter, so I'll be a busy man for the next few months (years?!?) :)

The car came from CA, so is very rust free and straight - which is a rarity in MN. It was the right price, but needs a little TLC this winter. I've never wrenched on cars, but I'm mechanically inclined and am lucky enough to have a great friend with garage space and tools willing to help me learn (as long as I keep his fridge well stocked with beers).

The interior is passable for now other than the dash pad (anybody got a line on a reasonably priced one?), but I want to make sure the car is uber reliable and safe for driving the wife and kiddo around next spring and summer! Here's what's on the docket for this winter:
- Carb rebuild (in the shop right now)
- Pull the motor and tranny and clean and repaint engine. Replace all gaskets and seals
- Inspect clutch and tranny bits. Shifter gates need to be re-worked, but otherwise the M40 feels bulletproof! Clutch is fairly new, should be OK for now.
- New battery cables, plug wires, replace generator w/ alternator, and possibly replace points with electronic ignition if budget allows.
- Inspect front end and replace all bushings and worn bits
- Same with the driveshaft and rear end. Currently a bit of clunking that I'm guessing is a U-joint. New fluid and crap.
- Check out the brakes and fix any sketchyness.
- Pull gas tank and seal to get rid of that awful gasoline smell.
- Install seat belts in the back seat!

Am I biting off too much? I am absolutely in love with this car and can't wait to drive it again next spring.

-Mike







 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That's a B18. I had already pulled the generator when I took those photos, but it currently has one. Would like to put in an alternator this winter (bracket is on it's way). It has dual SU's that had not been tuned or serviced in a long time, so I brought them into a local carb shop for a rebuild. I would rather just start from square one on those.

-Mike
 

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Rust free anything in Minnesota is rare. Nice car !

Hey if it still has the original front seat belts go ahead and replace those too. Only one way to find out if the almost 50 year old belts are any good and in the Cities you don't want them to not be good.


Oh yeah ment to say I'm in Park Rapids.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the replies, all. Bobby - the front seatbelts are modern. Someone replaced the front seats at some point with leather power jobs.

George: I only had a few minutes today so I popped the distributor cap off, but couldn't get the ignition switch out in time. I'll fiddle with it this week sometime. What are you looking for in the switch?

I've never owned a car with point-style ignition before.


Also, do I need to pull the whole dash to get at the instrument cluster? I'd like to get after the paint on this. Would it have originally been like a battleship gray?


-Mike
 

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No need to pull the ignition switch - just a close-up pic to determine if it is OE or aftermarket.

The ignition coil is add-on - where does that fat red wire connect?

The corroson in/on the distributor is extensive enough to compromise spark and advance - a good cleanup is in order.

No need to pull the unit (yet), just remove the rotor, contacts, connections, breaker plate (don't loose those screws or that tiny circlip!) then clean/lube the advance weights and springs.

Below is a link to all things Amazon - download/save as needed.

George Dill

http://www.volvoamazonpictures.se/documents/Volvo_Amazon_manuals_en.php
 

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generator

No need to install an alternator. I did that on an Amazon a few years back and didn't really notice a difference. The major problem with these old cars is the wiring. Old, corroded wiring and old, corroded terminals conspire with everything else that is old and corroded to give you fits. Plus they can get very hot.

On my '67 122 wagon, which I drive every day and just got back from driving on a 700 mile trip, I have a stock generator, and a later (I think '69) voltage regulator from a Karmann Ghia. It's electronic, not mechanical like the stock Amazon regulator. I then rewired everything with new wires and installed new modern fuses. I run an electric fan and an aftermarket CD radio on that stock generator, along with lights, wipers, heater fan, and never have an issue.

I was sold on generators a couple of years ago by a repair shop that rebuilt the generator for my '49 Plymouth for me. That generator had more copper in it than 10 alternators, and the guts of it are dead simple. And even though it was only a 6V generator, unregulated it would make over 18V!

Unless you need 100 Amps of current supply, the stock generator, rebuilt, and attached to a good eleectrical system, should be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks, MechiMike - I'll take that under advisement. I have an aftermarket CD player in mine as well, and didn't seem to have an issue with the lights, wipers, etc. I plan on installing an electric fan as well.

My goal with this car is to make it as consistently reliable and headache-free as possible - as a weekend mechanic with limited skills and time, this car is only worth the investment for me if it doesn't constantly need repairs and won't (always) breakdown on the wifey, so that was the thought behind the alternator. BUT if a rebuilt generator can preform just as well...?

I don't know if I want to bite off re-wiring this car just yet. I've got a pretty ambitious to-do list over the winter, and I have to help my buddy get his garage heated before it hits -10,000 degrees here, which could really be any day now.
-Mike
 

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The electric fan is a great idea where you live. Even up here in the sticks while waiting on road construction my 66 got a little hot. I just switched it off but I'm going to put a fan on at some point.

It's already -10,000 in my garage ! I've been doing projects for the little lady as well as working on old guitars and amps. So I'll be finishing the B20 and M41 rebuild in the cold.
 

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mechimike I semi agree with you,,,I had 4 Amazons in my life, this one that I have now is a 1965 130 and if I do not wreck it, it will be my last one until I die,,, about 2 years ago in a overseas business trip I brought back a pair of 7" CIBIE
Valeo H4 headlamps with 60/55 halogen bulbs,, with the Bosch generator the lights were just OK, once I put in a
Ac Delco 55amp,, I discovered what great lights these are and work in brightness and distance better than my
2009 Camry (company car) and/or my
wife's 2010 Accord......With the combination of these H4 headlamps/and halogen bulbs and the AC Delco amp,, Good Bye yellow
beam at night and hello to extremely BRIGHT light beams at night....
 

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Headlights with proper relays/wiring will always be bright with a fresh, healthy battery.

The OE Bosch generator and regulator will keep the battery charged as needed unless the car has accessories pulling huge loads.

Many Amazon electrical problems are wiring-related especially at junctions, grounds and the fuse block.

George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Sorry I haven't had a chance to update lately. The little one has been keeping me busy.

Progress:
/ Replaced the steering rag joint. Cleaned up the steering column and got the steering box ready for paint. I'll hit the engine bay with satin black this winter while the motor is out.
/ Tore out the aftermarket carpet (really poorly installed and smelled). Suggestions for replacement? The floor is really solid.
/ Re-painted Nike screw jack :)
/ Found a fuse box cover

Carbs should be back this week and then we can start the real fun.
-Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
What does everyone here do for the SU air filters? Buy the $$$ ones from IPD?

I'd love to find a lower cost alternative if you guys have one that works. Already have a few hundo into having them cleaned and re-built.

-Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
One last question for my Friday night musings:
The steering wheel had a rotten foam/vinyl cover that I ripped off. Where the steering wheels originally just painted?

If so, what kind of paint should I use for the re-finish? If not, can you point me in the direction of a re-wrap kit?

Loving this car.
-Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks, JG. Looks like this has been debated a few times already. There is so much great information on this forum it is making my head spin - in a good way :D

From my research, it sounds like the K&N's from IPD are washable? I would not have an issue spending that money if I could clean them up rather than replacing every 10k miles. Can anyone confirm?
http://www.ipdusa.com/products/6852/101434-k-n-engine-air-filter-2-bolt-su
 
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