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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2010 S80 3.2. When I am driving at high speeds (85+) and I need to slow down quickly ( e.g. on the highway in the fast lane and a car merges in front of me at a MUCH slower speed) when I brake hard the wheel shakes and I hear a humming noise from the front end. I brought this to the attention of my usual dealer they said everything is fine. I had my car serviced at another dealer they said my brake pads are fine but I need new rotors. I ordered pads and rotors offline prepared to have it done at my next service. I take my car back to my original dealer when it's time for service; they say they would do it but it would be a waste because the brake pads are far above spec and the rotors are fine. They re state the car is performing as it should.

My question: Does anyone else experience less than linear braking at higher speeds? This only occurs under hard braking. I'm wondering if I'm pushing the car beyond what it's made to do or if I may indeed need new pads/rotors. I drive a new E350 quite often and when I need to get from down from high speeds quickly its a drama free affair...in my VOLVO...not so much.
 

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Your rotors probably are slightly warped and your normal dealer is probably correct in saying they are fine. Rotors warp because they get hot if you are typically braking hard then they are going to get even hotter and are more likely to warp. If your dealer is turning down money you are willing to pay them then they are probably within specs.
 

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Your rotors probably are slightly warped and your normal dealer is probably correct in saying they are fine. Rotors warp because they get hot if you are typically braking hard then they are going to get even hotter and are more likely to warp. If your dealer is turning down money you are willing to pay them then they are probably within specs.
Yep, our XC does this but it really is only severe if I brake hard from triple digit speeds. It has actually seemed to get better over the last 50K miles rather than worse... but at some point I'll probably throw some slotted rotors up front... trying to decide if I upgrade to the 336mm OEM front brakes though!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I guess I will just have to live with this. :(
 

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If you have new rotors and pads sitting, why not just fit those and see if it solves the problem? Either it does solve the problem and it means your old rotors were warped or it doesn't and it means something else isn't right. If your old rotors and pads are in good condition I'd refit those (though I assume the new pads+rotors wont rust or anything from being used and then left sitting?)

Isn't it possible to lathe rotors back to a good condition, if that's the issue?

Volvo_Cop71: I thought rotors were at risk of warping if they're suddenly cooled while they're still hot, e.g driving through a water puddle with hot rotors. Or is regular hard slowdowns enough to risk ruining them?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If you have new rotors and pads sitting, why not just fit those and see if it solves the problem? Either it does solve the problem and it means your old rotors were warped or it doesn't and it means something else isn't right. If your old rotors and pads are in good condition I'd refit those (though I assume the new pads+rotors wont rust or anything from being used and then left sitting?)

Isn't it possible to lathe rotors back to a good condition, if that's the issue?

Volvo_Cop71: I thought rotors were at risk of warping if they're suddenly cooled while they're still hot, e.g driving through a water puddle with hot rotors. Or is regular hard slowdowns enough to risk ruining them?
I'm not a DIY person. Meaning if the car is going to do the same thing, I've wasted money paying the dealer to install the parts.
 
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