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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a couple of brake questions. I need new pads and rotors and I was wondering what was the best way to go. Scandinavian can put on new pads and resurface the rotors for 200. But if it were not extremely difficult I would rather just put on new rotors and pads myself. So the questions are, how difficult is it to change the rotors and pads? I looked at Volvospeed.com and it doesn't look that bad… Are there any hidden problems I could run into, or special tools to make the job easier? And what is the best combination of rotors and pads? I am mostly interested in braking performance (I don't mind brake dust if it gives me the best performance) and silent operation. I've heard some people complain that certain aftermarket combinations squeal. Thanks in advance.

Scott
 

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No it isn't hard to put on new rotors and pads, it's just that the lethal consequences of getting it wrong put off a lot of people - including me.

I'd rather pay someone to do it and if it does go wrong and I'm still around to complain I have some comeback...
 

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Scott,
I just did all four wheels on my 850 last month. I bought the slotted and drilled rotors found on eurosporttuning.com. They are original Volvo spec brembo's with the custom gas porting and drilling. I have 2000 miles on the system so far and have had no problems or complaints. I did use Volvo OEM pads as well as installed the rear-brake shims. Also, be sure and upgrade the brake lines while down there. It took me a full day to complete the job. I did not need any special tools. Just the usual stuff. Volvospeed did a great job on showing how to do the maintenance. I pretty much stuck with the recipe verbatim. Only thing you should do is have a can of PB blaster spray handy. Pre-treat all of the lines and bleeder screws before even thinking about putting a wrench on them. Also, don't be afraid too beat the crap out of the old rotors to get them off. Mine felt like they were welded to the hub, but with a 16 lb sledge hammer, I got the buggers off! I suggest buying a couple of quarts of DOT 4 fluid, 3 cans or so of berkable brake cleaner. (Chlorinated and flamiable!, don't use the envrionmentally friendly crap as it does not work!) Also, have a large 8"+ C-clamp for compressing the calipers, silicone goo for librication and squeel protection, lotts of rags, oil catch pan, line-wrenches for the brake lines are a plus. Keep a constant eye on the level of fluid in the resivoir as if you let it go empty, you will be bleeding brakes all-night-long. You will still have to bleed the brakes however if you just let the lines drip while working, there is a much slighter chance of getting air and crap into the system. Plus you can basically flush the system that way too.

Well...best of luck to you. It is a termendous difference and you will be able to really enjoy it that much more if you do it all your self! Have fun, and remember to take your time and ask for help if you have any questions! You should still have my mobile number, call me if you need assistance.

Prospero
 

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Hats off to the successful home mechanic!
A tip I got from someone who's just fitted the AP big brake kit is that the Volvo spec brake fluid can boil under severe braking conditions.

DOT 5.1 spec fluid will solve this problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Matt, thanks for the input... I am looking around on E-bay for some slotted rotors... In your opinion does your car really stop better/quicker with the slotted rotors?

- Simon - this is the one area where I take my car into the shop. Like you said it's been that nervousness that's put me off. But time to face my fears!

Lastly, on Volvospeed is that white grease specifically called brake grease? Just so I know what to get. Thanks for all of your help guys...

Scott
 

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Sean, Thanks for the compliments! Yeah, the mechanic in me is starting to come back out again.


Now about the SC-900, it sounds sweet! I have nearly completed the install. At this point I am making my own 2nd and 3rd order passive crossovers to get it all right. Spent more time on figuring the frequency ranges than I did on the actal labor. I still have not figured a few of the wire nor hav I done the dolby since I don't have the processor.
Let me know if you ever come across one as well as the cables and antenna booster. I would like to complete this system one day.

Scott,
The brakes are much better all the way around! The stopping is so much more "crisp" and responsive. But my intent with the install was simply to rid myself of the warped rotor issue. The tefe/steel brake lines were preventive mainenance as well because at 200K miles, the original ones were getting nasty. Now regarding the rotors, the ones on eurosporttuning are the only ones which I have used. They are OEM with some extra mods. I would strongly suggest these for keeping it safe. The silicone goo is basically just that. Silicone grease. I would just buy the goo from the dealer when you get the pads and shims. It will keep you from wondering about it's quality.

Prospero
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Does anyone know what brand the OEM pads are? I was looking for pads and I've seen all sorts of different brands. Dan-block, PBR and Textar to name a few. Are any of these companies the OEM supplier? I found Brembo rotors for 39.00 at newandusedvolvoparts.com, they state they are 11" OD are these the right ones?

I hope that's the last of my questions, Matt and the rest you're a big help!

Scott
 

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Scott, the OEM supplier is Brembo. I don't have the specification near me so I can't comment if the $39.00 rotors are the right ones or not. Good luck.

Prospero
 
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