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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Anyone - Know of anything New going On : EuroSport seems to have a good set up , but It takes Special Wheels or Hub Shims .

Anything on a Good Solid 2 pc. Rotor . I'm asking as even My Cryo'd ones are starting
to show signs of Dieing Long before Their Time is Up .

Example : I just got 55,000 Plus Miles - I say Plus miles as the Dealer had replaced and bleed
at 19,000 miles , Warped . on VW - CC - since then I recently had those replaced at 75,000 miles .

My Old Ford with $22.00 a pc Rotors was going 40,000 - 50,000 between changes .

My Dam - Volvo is on it's 4th set at that rate the Average is 15,000 miles . I don't even have
8,000 on the Current one - I'd say there Gone , but it could be something else - Digging Deeper .

At $120.00 a pc . last time , these Dam Rotors should Go ** 60,000 miles **
I don't Track the Vehicle , I have Stopped hard a few times , of Which 3 Times were to Miss - Deer or
a Crazy Truck Driver - doing a U-Turn in front of a 4 Lane Highway with a 44 ft Tow Truck ( NO Notice ) Just Jumped Out in front of 10 Cars .

I Believe what We need is a Fully ( Air Flow Balanced ) Rotor and one with - Curved Vanes - and
Some Expansion Hardware .

http://www.zeckhausen.com/Brembo/Rotor_Replacement.htm


•Convergent vane pumps more air than conventional curved vane.
•More efficient air ventilation – Center mount provides air inlets from both inboard and outboard.
•Heat load on rotor hat is balanced from both sides of friction surfaces.
•Heat transfer from disc surface to rotor hat is greatly reduced due to longer distance to travel.
•Stress load is balanced due to the mounting surface is at the disc center.

Our Factory Disc are Lop sided in Mass - which just - Makes for Warping ! ( Great Design )

Lets put them on the New $48,000 T6 - R - and go have Fun Boys !

Don't forget - every-time - You have an Emergency Stop - Just be Prepared to BUY to New Rotors !


PLEASE - GIVE US -- A -- BRAKE !
 

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I'm in a similar dilemma. Here's where I've been looking for my solution:

http://www.wilwood.com/m/products/products.aspx

If you cruise their site, they even have rear calipers with a built on parking brake that could possibly mate to our rear setup. I haven't dug deep enough for a definitive answer. Maybe use a similar caliper as Elevates wilwood bbk, but then see if you can score a two piece rotor to work with the caliper. EST has a really cool set of wheels, something a bit different:

http://www.eurosporttuning.ca/mm5/m...2-1880-31FF45C730&Category_Code=VL-S40-V50-ex

The downside is like you said above, you'd need spacers or a huge offset to fit the EST BBK with them. I don't have the cake for the custom HRe's that I really want, so unless I get a BBK that fits under these wheels, then I'm stuck with a one piece rotor and a milder brake upgrade too lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The Wilwoods are doing there - Job - I believe - It's the Freaking Rotors .

Here's company - that is Fast making a Big Name - Mustang , Corvettes , Imports !
Just need to convince them to a Volvo set I wrote them this Past Spring - they said their tooling for so many , It would be based on Interest . read ( Need to Write them )

http://www.racingbrake.com/Open-Slot-VW-MK5-R32-PASSAT-Exc-Syncro-FRONT-p/2171-381.htm

Don @ Elevate is working on a Set Up : NO Details , No Pricing !
 

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All I say is don't get EBC.
I'll be getting some Stoptech/Centric powerslot rotors to replace the EBC.
Once I can find a decent place to buy them from.

And to be honest I'd be curious to know what everyone else has and who in real honesty found slotted to be better performance for regular driving than plain rotors... because I have to figure out if getting slotted is even smart call at this point!
 

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how the hell are you going through rotors in under 30k?!? are you autocrossing or something alot? im still on stock rotors and pads with 49K on the ODO for both front and rear ... im not gonna lie i do try and baby my brakes but trust me, i do drive spiritedly alot considering i commute 156miles 2 days out of every week.

i am enjoying reading this thread because iv been looking for a BBk for a long time and i was leaning towards eurosports...
 

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Lol! I can hardly get little dust from my brakes! Since I replaced rotors and pads I've had but very poor braking power, vibrations, etc... So I'm going to dished the EBC rotors to replace them with StopTech/powerslots. Hopefully that will take care of the problem (though I'm wondering if I should get slotted at all this time around!). If it does not solve the problem I will just have extra pairs of rotors for sale. Since it won't be because of the rotors. If it does work, well I'll have an extra pair but I won't feel confident to sale them :(

It's the last straw I'm going to take with these brakes myself. After that It would have to be the mechanic's problem to solve!
 

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its funny you just posted this because I just got these in the mail



Stoptech Sportstop Cryo's
 

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I know I'm a broken record but unless you need to look cool or seriously track your car....
Centric High Carbon Rotors. Good metallurgy, properly machined, anti-corrosive coating & a reasonable price. What more do you want?
You should be getting at least 50,000 on your brakes unless you live on Mt. Washington, race or use it as a taxi. Mine typically go around 75-90k & I autocross. Automatics normally get a bit less.

Utilizing the same split core symmetric molding process used by Original Equipment manufacturers, Centric’s High Carbon Plain 125 Series Rotors dissipate heat efficiently and provide better stopping power especially in repeat stopping situations. Containing an advanced metallurgy containing proprietary Molybdenum and Chromium alloys, the rotors resist cracking during high performance use or repeat stop situations. The alloys also greatly reduce the pad squeal associated with higher friction, European-style brake pad compounds and increases the friction couple to improve brake performance and stopping power.

The Centric High Carbon Plain 125 Series Rotor features a double disc ground finish that virtually eliminates run out and any disc thickness variation (DTV) issues. The non-directional, double disc ground finish also provides improved rotor and pad break-in while a directional vane design improves airflow and cooling. Rotors are mill-balanced, as well, to ensure smooth operation regardless of speed.

Centric High Carbon Plain 125 Series Rotor Features:

Premium black E-coating finish to combat corrosion on the rotor hat and between the cooling vanes
Center split castings for increased strength and stability
Superior cooling fin designs
Double disc ground finish
100% fully machined finish including rotor hats
100% inspected and mill-balanced for smooth operation regardless of speed
Lateral run out held to 0.002” or less
Meet or exceed rigidity quality specifications, including cooling vane designs

A center split casting increases strength and stability, but to further promote longevity, the rotors feature Centric’s exclusive black E-coating finish. Engineered to withstand 400 hours of salt spray testing without corroding, it is applied on all non-friction surfaces to prevent premature rusting.

E-Coating Advantages:

Uniform coating thickness over all areas including sharp corners, recesses and areas that are hard to reach with spray painting
Nontoxic and water-based paint material
Approximately 95% utilization of paint with no overspray, drip or drain losses
Complete paint coverage — no touchup of paint ever required
 

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All I say is don't get EBC.
I'll be getting some Stoptech/Centric powerslot rotors to replace the EBC.
Once I can find a decent place to buy them from.

And to be honest I'd be curious to know what everyone else has and who in real honesty found slotted to be better performance for regular driving than plain rotors... because I have to figure out if getting slotted is even smart call at this point!
Ill take your advice on the EBC's then. :) any word on those Viva rotors? I really wish that the EST BBK fit under the wheels better. I'm guessing 18" with a 38 or 40 Et might work with them. But I don't like guessing... I wouldn't wanna drop the $1600 only bro find out I need spacers or a different wheel. I really think that spacers put unnecessary stress on the wheel bearings even though people have run them successfully.
 

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Do we know if viva are in fact power-slots? they really look the same.
 

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i just purchased vivas rotors drilled and slotted rotors for the rears with hawk pads, but i have yet to install them because my rear pads still have life on them 49K+ OEM ...

after hearing what you guys keep saying about the EST BBK , you stearing me away from them... sadly i like them more then the elevate kit, but i dont wanna run spacers because of said unnecessary stress on wheel bearings and wheel studs.
 

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Do we know if viva are in fact power-slots? they really look the same.
I suspect the same but I wasn't sure.
 

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And to be honest I'd be curious to know what everyone else has and who in real honesty found slotted to be better performance for regular driving than plain rotors... because I have to figure out if getting slotted is even smart call at this point!
It depends what you call "regular" driving. :)
I found them slightly better when braking from high speeds on autobahn. They do produce a slight noise but brake better then stock. In city driving they are completely silent.

More important then rotors is the pad material you use and brake fluid.

In my opinion installing steel braided lines makes sense only if your car is older then 7-8 years so your stock lines may become "softer".
 

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I guess a brake upgrade all depends on how you drive and how confident you feel with your setup. I go on the occasional weekend fun run up mountain roads with higher HP cars. My only way of keeping up is better driving, late braking, and sometimes bigger balls! ...but kidding aside, my BBK upgrade (plus the suspension upgrade) has given me more confidence to push the car a bit more. Having no brake fade makes a world of difference. Also, I've come across the occasional dumba$$ driver who cuts and brakes suddenly into my lane and I tell you, I couldn't be more happy I made the decision to upgrade. The BBK really bites quicker.

Again, it's all down to personal preference. If you are happy with the stock setup, then stick to stock - a BBK in this instance may be overkill. There are several levels of upgrades anyway, I started with just upgrading the pads, and then moved up from there.
 

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This may be the future. It fits behind a stock wheel.

http://www.c30world.com/forums/showpost.php?p=324121&postcount=550
In case anybody is interested here is a link to the manufacturer site: http://www.bigbrakesdirect.co.za/in...page=flypage.tpl&product_id=39&category_id=10

P.S. using EBC pads with a serious BBK doesn't seem like a good idea. Serious BBKs are meant for racing and EBC doesn't manufacture any real racing pads. :D
Endless or similar pads would be much better choice..
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Really Guys - NO - BS - My 4th set - ( 2 Oe's in the first 36,000 miles ) then I started to Test - Got better Rotors - Rejected those - turned out those were Not properly Heat Treated .
Went to Cry'od at 44,000 - PITA . ( Part of Issue was to hard or aggressive Red stuff Pads ) - which I understand - changed their Formula .

Got Slotted & Drilled - Not Bad - .( Slight Warping ) ( Sold Big Brake set up - included Better Match Pads - Solid Disc to be Quite ) 54,000 miles ( Customer Says - A-OK )

Put On Willwoods - Nice Lite set up - Faster Sway Bar - Great stopping Power - a slight delay in uptake really don't notice it after driving awhile . 62,000 start of a Problem ( Investigating Problem )
So Far Changed Motor Mount : Improvement - slight during Acceleration , but Worst on Deceleration .

Looking @ Axle , LCA Bushings , Rotors are warped , but Issue seems much Bigger this Time ! read ( Almost Feels like I Cracked something )

It seems some are having this ( Short Rotor Life and Others NOT ) - It has Nothing to do with Driving Style as I have gotten many more Miles from other vehicles .
Need more Data from You Guys - Miles on Frt Rotors ( AWD or FWD ) ( Frt - Pads being Used )

This Means to Me - that - Possible ( Software Bias has been Screwed ) or (( ABS is Not Balanced Enough ( 1 Corner ) working slightly Harder)) . ( Investigating )

My Next Rotors - will only be Plain or Slight Slot - don't feel the Drilled are doing anything - only a few Oz's really not - Enough Cooling .

Looking at Pictures of the Rotor Design above - : We really need as the Extra Cooling is very Critical on these Volvo's - due to the extra Weight - Mostly
Due to the Fact - these Cars are Front Brake Bias to the tune : 68 - 71% which in My book is way to much ! ( Curved Vane are really Needed for any type of Spirited Driving )
Rear Brakes might be 35% with Better Pads and Lines .
 
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