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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’m ordering caliper rebuild-seal kits for the front and rear from Viva. I see they have Stainless Steel brake lines. They are $119 now. IPDUSA has some for $180. Is there really a difference?
Thoughts?


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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
FCP Euro has the same Techna fit ones as Viva for $87.69


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Sweet!!! Lifetime warranty. I’ve been replacing my car parts with FCPEURO parts. Doesn’t get any better than that. Thanks!


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I went with iPd. Stainless but also jacketed so they don’t corrode.


My two cents.


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I went with iPd. Stainless but also jacketed so they don’t corrode.


My two cents.


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Techna fit ones are jacketed too. And if they do happen to corrode after the years they have lifetime warranty


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Either way I’m sure you’ll notice a firmer brake feel. While you’re at it might as well swap all of the fluid.


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Amazon has the rebuild kits alot cheaper Hunter
 

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I guess it comes down to your budget and what you are shooting for in the end.


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I prefer quality without comprise.


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The braking system only stops your car after all. I’d definitely go with the discounted option if I could. Totally makes sense.


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I am getting new stainless lines for mine also. Figured I would upgrade while I work out a soft pedal issue I am having. What makes IPD so superior besides the price tag that comes along with them? Think I will order mine from FCP.

And as far as "the braking system only stopping your car after all." Well my car has been fine since 2010 when I acquired the car with the stock set up.
 

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Once you put stainless lines on and replace the fluid. Which you should do as brake fluid is hygroscopic. Then properly bleed them, your soft brake feel should firm up. Over time your wet boiling point will decrease and the fluid will not respond the same.

Again it depends on how the car is driven. Stopping from speeds in excess of 125 and up is quite a bit different than a daily driver stopping from say freeway speeds.

I’m sure FCP euros are fine. I’ve purchased several parts from them over the years and had no issues. IPd is a performance shop. Their products are designed and tested for different stresses than stock or slightly better than stock components.

I’m not here to argue just offer an opinion. You, nor anyone else needs agree with it. If you’ve got your mind made up.....what’s the point in this thread to begin with?

Good luck.


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I am getting new stainless lines for mine also. Figured I would upgrade while I work out a soft pedal issue I am having. What makes IPD so superior besides the price tag that comes along with them? Think I will order mine from FCP.

And as far as "the braking system only stopping your car after all." Well my car has been fine since 2010 when I acquired the car with the stock set up.
Soft pedal is probably the brake vacuum pump or vacuum switch. If it’s happening right off boost or right at startup. Fluid is also a good idea. OEM is SL.6 I believe.
 

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Once you put stainless lines on and replace the fluid. Which you should do as brake fluid is hygroscopic. Then properly bleed them, your soft brake feel should firm up. Over time your wet boiling point will decrease and the fluid will not respond the same.

Again it depends on how the car is driven. Stopping from speeds in excess of 125 and up is quite a bit different than a daily driver stopping from say freeway speeds.

I’m sure FCP euros are fine. I’ve purchased several parts from them over the years and had no issues. IPd is a performance shop. Their products are designed and tested for different stresses than stock or slightly better than stock components.

I’m not here to argue just offer an opinion. You, nor anyone else needs agree with it. If you’ve got your mind made up.....what’s the point in this thread to begin with?

Good luck.


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I'm with you. Buy what you feel like. No argument here just saying expensive doesn't mean better. If your racing then that's a different story. I mean if I buy a new Weatherby rifle that doesn't mean it will shot better or kill more than a cheaper Remington.


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Soft pedal is probably the brake vacuum pump or vacuum switch. If it’s happening right off boost or right at startup. Fluid is also a good idea. OEM is SL.6 I believe.
Definitely it's right at start up. It hit the floor. I pump it up and it tightens up but it softens back up. I've noticed this over the last few times driving. My car does sit more these days.i will check into the pump and switch. Would VIDA tell me anything about the pump or switch? I need to get ZZZZZZZ to scan my car sometime.

Sorry for thread crashing Hunter, but at least it keeps you bumped up top.


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Pump is easily powered with a 12v source. If you have a power-probe it makes this very easy. Start the car, get someone to pump the brake pedal. If you can hear a "buzzing" sounds when the pedal is pressed the pump is working and the switch is as well. The switches can be intermittent OR they can fail and make the pump run all the time. If the brake vacuum pump doesnt run, make sure you test ground and power to it. If no power start with a switch. If ya have power and ground, you need a pump.

Usually, if the pump is not working, the pedal will be stiff until the vehicle runs for a minute or two and supplies enough vacuum to the booster. Not saying thats your issues, but this is how we test them.
 

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Totally agree.


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Pump is easily powered with a 12v source. If you have a power-probe it makes this very easy. Start the car, get someone to pump the brake pedal. If you can hear a "buzzing" sounds when the pedal is pressed the pump is working and the switch is as well. The switches can be intermittent OR they can fail and make the pump run all the time. If the brake vacuum pump doesnt run, make sure you test ground and power to it. If no power start with a switch. If ya have power and ground, you need a pump.

Usually, if the pump is not working, the pedal will be stiff until the vehicle runs for a minute or two and supplies enough vacuum to the booster. Not saying thats your issues, but this is how we test them.
Thanks for explaining what to do. I will check that and I do have a probe.
 
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