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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, so I took the R to get a tire fixed and thought I'd go ahead and get the rotors turned since I had just installed the new Red Stuff brakes. Guy informs me he can't turn my rotors and he also said that by installing the new brakes without turning them at the same time, the brakes and rotors now need replaced. Said that they will squeal forever and you can never just replace brakes only on the R. Comments?? Accurate??
 

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You absolutely can just replace pads. <p>But its the thickness thats important, maybe your's are too thin. If they are too thin you can't turn them and then you do have to replace them. You can still put new pads on them with the big lip, but its not the best thing to do... and you'd likely have to do this yourself, shops wont because its just not good.<p><br>Just noticed you're in an 07. You most likely don't need new rotors (mileage is more important that age of course). For comparison, I'm on originals but will have to change them at 80k when I do the brakes again.
 

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Re: Brake Rotor Replacement Required with New Brakes?? (Husker Z)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Husker Z</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Okay, so I took the R to get a tire fixed and thought I'd go ahead and get the rotors turned since I had just installed the new Red Stuff brakes. Guy informs me he can't turn my rotors and he also said that by installing the new brakes without turning them at the same time, the brakes and rotors now need replaced. Said that they will squeal forever and you can never just replace brakes only on the R. Comments?? Accurate??</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Total, 100%, Grade A pure Bullsh!t. <p>
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: Brake Rotor Replacement Required with New Brakes?? (Needsdecaf)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Needsdecaf</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p>Total, 100%, Grade A pure Bullsh!t. <p></TD></TR></TABLE><p>That's what I told the guy. My car has 39K on it and there is a very small lip on the rotor, but it should be fine to turn.<p>Well, that brings me to my next question then, HOW DO I GET THESE F'ERS TO STOP SQUEALING???? They've been on for a couple of weeks now and they are horribly squeaky and driving me nuts. The brakes say right on them "NO BEDDING REQUIRED". <p>And to top that off, the hole in my tire is too far on the sidewall and can't be patched. Superior Volvo plugged it, but it's still leaking slowly. So, very productive visit to Firestone today. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vortexmediagroup.com/images/banghead.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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I've heard many times that pads w/o a turn will cause squeaking. I did it anyway, and its fine, so I don't really buy it.<p>If its really bull then a lot of shops are in on this one!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Re: (imageomega)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>imageomega</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've heard many times that pads w/o a turn will cause squeaking. I did it anyway, and its fine, so I don't really buy it.<p>If its really bull then a lot of shops are in on this one!</TD></TR></TABLE><p>He blamed it on it being a Volvo and being very sensitive, I didn't discuss it with him, I let him try to explain it and I told him that what he was stating was inaccurate, but thank you. <p>I know this is normally frowned upon, but what would happen if I used some of that fix-a-flat stuff? The leak is slow and it does have a plug in it already. I will be replacing the tires prior to winter as well. <p>Thoughts??
 

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Fix a flat is not long term. If its a slow leak, you're better off just checking the pressure weekly. The plug alone should be fine, better than a plug plus fix-a-flat in my opinion.<p>Also, if you forget fix-a-flat is in there and months down the road someone goes to remove the tire from the rim, it can come off with "explosive results"...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Re: (imageomega)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>imageomega</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Fix a flat is not long term. If its a slow leak, you're better off just checking the pressure weekly. The plug alone should be fine, better than a plug plus fix-a-flat in my opinion.<p>Also, if you forget fix-a-flat is in there and months down the road someone goes to remove the tire from the rim, it can come off with "explosive results"...</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Damn, I really don't want to replace these f'n tires right now. I guess I could go with just two, there is enough tread on them where I don't think it would be an issue. I need an alignment too, two of the tires are pretty worn, only on the inside shoulder.
 

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Re: Brake Rotor Replacement Required with New Brakes?? (Husker Z)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Husker Z</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">visit to Firestone today. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vortexmediagroup.com/images/banghead.gif" BORDER="0"> </TD></TR></TABLE><p>Thats all you get with them. Give my past threads a search. Oh man, firestone...<p><br>Anyway, I didn't see that post about the squealing. You're best bet is to remove the wheels, pull out the pads, and regrease the shipolte out of them. its not the rotor side thats causing the noise its the back side. USE A LOT of brake grease, it'll work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Re: Brake Rotor Replacement Required with New Brakes?? (imageomega)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>imageomega</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p>Thats all you get with them. Give my past threads a search. Oh man, firestone...<p><br>Anyway, I didn't see that post about the squealing. You're best bet is to remove the wheels, pull out the pads, and regrease the shipolte out of them. its not the rotor side thats causing the noise its the back side. USE A LOT of brake grease, it'll work. Also, theres a shim fix from Volvo which you may or may not already have. Dealers are never cheap though...</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Thanks, I'll give that a shot this weekend. <p>I've heard nightmares about Firestone as well, but I thought what the hell, they can surely fix a hole and turn a couple rotors. I guess not.
 

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Re: Brake Rotor Replacement Required with New Brakes?? (Husker Z)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Husker Z</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've heard nightmares about Firestone as well, but I thought what the hell, they can surely fix a hole and turn a couple rotors. I guess not. </TD></TR></TABLE><p>I thought they could simply tighten a handbrake. It froze while driving 20 minutes later.<p>I thought they could align a car. They bent a rim while test driving it.<p>Stay away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Re: Brake Rotor Replacement Required with New Brakes?? (imageomega)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>imageomega</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p>I thought they could simply tighten a handbrake. It froze while driving 20 minutes later.<p>I thought they could align a car. They bent a rim while test driving it.<p>Stay away.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Holy smokes, that really stinks. Well, the minute he told me that I needed to replace my brand new brakes because I didn't do both at the same time, I knew I was done with them.
 

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Re: Brake Rotor Replacement Required with New Brakes?? (Husker Z)

Sorry to the OP, I visit this forum here and there, i have been a reader, owner, and enthusiast for quite some time now. I have owned several higher line makes and models. I too have learned that cars like the R's, and S4's require a higher level of looking after, more so than other cars.<br>To own and drive a finer car, typically it costs you something in the end. <br>Just my 2cents, Machine rotors(provided enough material is there), or replace them with OEM prior to installing new pads. doing so will net you faster bed in, increased pad life and more even pad wear = better/ safer stopping power and less squealing.<br> Get rid of that plugged tire, they are never safe! rope plugs near or at the sidewall are not worth it. Replace all 4, super important on an AWD car. Buy some sort of roadhazard wty that covers that kind of stuff for the future.<br> Sorry, this one just struck a cord.
 

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Re: Brake Rotor Replacement Required with New Brakes?? (realsicksince88)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Husker Z</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And to top that off, the hole in my tire is too far on the sidewall and can't be patched. Superior Volvo plugged it, but it's still leaking slowly. So, very productive visit to Firestone today. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vortexmediagroup.com/images/banghead.gif" BORDER="0"> </TD></TR></TABLE><p>If the hole is too close to the sidewall..........time to chuck the tires. Under cornering or turning, the load on the sidewall may be too much for the leaking plug. Pony up and be safe.<p>WRT the rotors..........changing pad material can cause issues with an already bedded rotor. That said, the rotors on most new cars don't have much spare thickness for turning. Either revert back to the stock pads or find a shop that can turn/change the rotors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Re: Brake Rotor Replacement Required with New Brakes?? (MagoonR)

Well, after some more research and discussion with knowledgeable people, it looks as though the tire "MIGHT" be repairable, it was just a poor plug-job by Superior Volvo. Worst case scenario, it still leaks and I'll replace that tire. The tires that are on it are in fine shape as it stands, to get 4 new tires right now would be a waste of money. The tire that is leaking is a bit worn on the interior side, so I do need an alignment, but the other 4 are wearing straight and have 85%+ tread depth left on them. If the tire is shot, I'll probably replace two of the four and go from there, I hate to just replace one, but it would be senseless to replace all four, they do not need it.<p>I am going to pull the brakes, lube the sh!t out of the backside and have the rotors turned by someone with a brain this weekend.
 

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Re: Brake Rotor Replacement Required with New Brakes?? (Husker Z)

Replaced my pads at about 35,000 miles with new OEM pads from the local dealer. The rotors were fine, so they didn't get touched. I did use the GOLD anti-squeal that came with the Volvo pads, haven't made a peep since then. I tried a couple other brands of anti-squeal before changing the pads, neither worked!!
 

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Re: Brake Rotor Replacement Required with New Brakes?? (jrgoffin)

Since I track my R, I go through pads pretty quick. I also switch between Ferodo race pads in the summer/track months and OEM pads in the winter. I'm still on the first set of rotors. There is really no reason to replace the rotors unless the get warped (rare) or actually get worn down. If you bed your pads correctly, the rotor will last a long long time, even with heavy brake use (track days).
 

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Re: Brake Rotor Replacement Required with New Brakes?? (Husker Z)

Well yes you can put just pads on if your rotors are at spec but if there are at 1.21 or below you most REPLACE with pad replacement <br>and if they are at 1.18 then you MUST replace them or you will have a clapest rotor!!<br>Fix your sig.. it make you look like a tool.. JRL mod LOL the resanator delat has been aroud FOR EVER!! LOL I did it to my frist 2 car and iv never been on a form
 
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