Brake pads
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Re: Brake pads (wrxownr)
Hmmm... first company I've seen offering titanium backing shims (other than takspeed), but I like the takspeed design better:
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Not to mention the fact that right now the takspeed shims are about 25% less expensive.
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http://www.takspeed.com/store/...id=49
Hmmm... first company I've seen offering titanium backing shims (other than takspeed), but I like the takspeed design better:
Not to mention the fact that right now the takspeed shims are about 25% less expensive.
http://www.takspeed.com/store/...id=49
Re: Brake pads (wrxownr)
Hawk HPS high performance street pads have low dust, low noise, and low rotor wear. Slightly higher in friction level than Hawk Ceramic pads with a similar MOT of around 750°F. Not recommended for track use, as their friction level falls off rapidly when the MOT is exceeded
Well ain't that a kick in the jimmy...
Does anyone know what the stock pads MOT is? I assumed the Hawk HPS would do better at the ring, but they heated up a lot more than the stock pads (more friction I assume), and they seemed to be mushier by the end than I remember the stock pads being.
Of course, I was taking the advice of Jim/Denny and braking later and harder instead of downshifting so much
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Hawk HPS high performance street pads have low dust, low noise, and low rotor wear. Slightly higher in friction level than Hawk Ceramic pads with a similar MOT of around 750°F. Not recommended for track use, as their friction level falls off rapidly when the MOT is exceeded
Well ain't that a kick in the jimmy...
Does anyone know what the stock pads MOT is? I assumed the Hawk HPS would do better at the ring, but they heated up a lot more than the stock pads (more friction I assume), and they seemed to be mushier by the end than I remember the stock pads being.
Of course, I was taking the advice of Jim/Denny and braking later and harder instead of downshifting so much
Re: Brake pads ("R" Kelly)
Glad to hear you did that... on a track, you slow down with the brakes... downshifting is only done so as to be in the correct gear to accelerate away from the turn. This is why heel/toe gets to be important as you also want to be able to rev match as you move to the lower gear(s).
| Quote, originally posted by "R" Kelly » |
| Of course, I was taking the advice of Jim/Denny and braking later and harder instead of downshifting so much
|
Glad to hear you did that... on a track, you slow down with the brakes... downshifting is only done so as to be in the correct gear to accelerate away from the turn. This is why heel/toe gets to be important as you also want to be able to rev match as you move to the lower gear(s).
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Re: Brake pads ("R" Kelly)
R- Kelly
If I was you I would use carbon/kevlar Porterfields for the ring
R- Kelly
If I was you I would use carbon/kevlar Porterfields for the ring
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1,125 Posts
Re: Brake pads (Helmut Ranff)
I already told him that ... I think he is just being stubborn
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| Quote, originally posted by Helmut Ranff » |
| R- Kelly If I was you I would use carbon/kevlar Porterfields for the ring |
I already told him that ... I think he is just being stubborn
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1,876 Posts
Re: Brake pads (Helmut Ranff)
Most pads with FF rating is good enough for track use. "FF" stands for friction coefficient at .45 to .55 range for high and low temperature operation. There are some "G" ratings out there, but your rotor won't be ble to take it.
track temperature often exceeds 1000F, at this temperature most pads would develop a "glazing" effect which drastically lowers your FE. Ceramic pads were developed for that purpose.
check your pads for glaze if it's advertised as high-performance, if you see it, get a refund.
Most pads with FF rating is good enough for track use. "FF" stands for friction coefficient at .45 to .55 range for high and low temperature operation. There are some "G" ratings out there, but your rotor won't be ble to take it.
track temperature often exceeds 1000F, at this temperature most pads would develop a "glazing" effect which drastically lowers your FE. Ceramic pads were developed for that purpose.
check your pads for glaze if it's advertised as high-performance, if you see it, get a refund.
Re: Brake pads (Quick Brick)
Thanks for the suggestions, but, umm, I'm not going to buy a second set of new set of pads for 1 trip to the Ring.
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When the Hawks wear out (and at the rate of dust production that shouldn't be long) I'm either going back to stock or going to try the ceramics...
Don't really need the porterfields for being stuck in Florida panhandle traffic...
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| Quote, originally posted by Quick Brick » |
| I already told him that ... I think he is just being stubborn
|
Thanks for the suggestions, but, umm, I'm not going to buy a second set of new set of pads for 1 trip to the Ring.
When the Hawks wear out (and at the rate of dust production that shouldn't be long) I'm either going back to stock or going to try the ceramics...
Don't really need the porterfields for being stuck in Florida panhandle traffic...
Re: (jazee)
Stock pads are fine for everyday use and occassional tracking depending on your level of ability. If you are really pushing your R and braking late and hard on the track, you'll be better off with track pads. Hey, it almost takes longer to jack up the car and take the wheels off than to change the pads. Besides if you are tracking its good to check your pads often to monitor their wear. You don't want to run into one of those " Oh $hit" moments as you approach the corner hard and find out the brakes are gone.
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Stock pads are fine for everyday use and occassional tracking depending on your level of ability. If you are really pushing your R and braking late and hard on the track, you'll be better off with track pads. Hey, it almost takes longer to jack up the car and take the wheels off than to change the pads. Besides if you are tracking its good to check your pads often to monitor their wear. You don't want to run into one of those " Oh $hit" moments as you approach the corner hard and find out the brakes are gone.
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