[[email protected]]

Okay, the bulb indicator went off on our new 245. I replaced the bulb, which was visibly blown with a new bulb. I checked the brake lights and they worked properly. Then I got in to drive somewhere and the indicator light was on again. I went back and played wiht the connection as I had someone step on the brake. It would light up if I pushed on it.

Then under driving, it would not work most of the time, and work sometimes under braking and (here's the odd part) when I hit the turnsignal, though sometimes just momentarily. I am judging all of this on monitoring the indicator light during my holiday driving.

I figured it's a loose connection or a connector in need of a little sanding, but the turnsignal part has me puzzled. Any ideas?

Also, the high beams were not working on the car as well. I'd hit them and they would go off. I replaced one bulb and still no high beams, then I replaced the others and hit the high beams and they worked. I figure this might be some sort of circuit setup by Volvo, but again, just thought it was odd. The high beams work fine now.

 

[[email protected]]

Okay, an update. The brake light works fine when the headlights are off. Further, the taillight comes on with the headlights, but the brake light does then not work. What the heck? It worked before I replaced it, which means to me that I somehow have the wrong bulb (followed the chart at Pep Boys) or I somehow put it back in incorrectly. This is wierd.

How many Volvo portal admins does it take to change a light bulb? (Answer: Don't Ask!)

 

[towerymt]

I'm not so good with the electrical glitches, but I've had (have) a few of these ongoing problems. My first guess would be the plastic circuit card that has a thin layer of copper where the tabs on the bulb holder make contact. If you can see a line that's been etched into the copper, it's probably time to replace the circuit card. I've replaced one on my car, and it fixed some of my problems.

OK, does the bulb out indicator light blink with the turn signal? I've heard that a bad ground connection can cause that. I've had that problem before too, and it fixed itself, so I never found any bad connections, but check the ground straps and the point where the plug of wires connects to the circuit card (I'm assuming the wagon taillights are similar to the sedan).

I'm not sure about headlights. Surprisingly, I've never had to replace a headlight bulb in the 20K+ miles over 2+ years that I've had my car. I guess that poor light output means the bulbs last a long time.

Looking forward to some high power H4's!

Good luck with the bubs

 

[[email protected]]

THe blinker works fine all the time. The taillight works fine also (same bulb), but the brake light doesn't work most of the time with the headlights/taillights on.

 

[Prospero]

Guys,
I had the same issues with my 240 this week! In a nut shell, I replaced all bulbs with the same brand and rating in one shot. This elliminates the different resistance values between bulbs which gets worse over time. Then with the bulb-socket out of the car I simply pulled the metal tabs toward the bulb. (Resulting in a tighter connection to the plastic circuit card thingy by crating additional spring pressure.) I also used a pencil eraser and "polished" all of the metal contacts on both the bulb-socket and tail-light assembly. Then I pulled out the connection to the tail light from the wire harness and cleaned all connections. (I used a mini-file that fit into the connector.) From there the lights all worked and the indicator on the dash quit doing the "off thing" when hitting the turn signal. I also strongly suggest taking and pulling all fuses from the car and cleaning the contacts of both the fuse and fuse-block. Additionally, take the time to give the same polishing to all "quick connect" type plugs and connectors. In doing so, I have been able to restore full function to all dash and accessory lights, power windows, A/C, and other things like the clock and oil pressure gauge.

A quick and dirty method for doing the contacts on the dash lights and other "not likely to replace soon" parts is to simply flux and solder the parts without taking anything apart. This is quick and dirty and will **** -off any mechanic that needs to pull apart the car in the future. If you DYI though, it is a saving grace.

Prospero

 

[Volvorules]

George, don't forget about the tailgate wiring harness...those things are known to screw up. I'd check the wires in there and see if nothing is messed up or grounding out...that may be your culprit.

Rob

 

[[email protected]]

Thanks guys. I'll do that. I had the car back for a week, but it's back out on loan to my sister. I'll have to pick it up when I have a weekend to play with it.

 

[242 Turbo]

I had the same problem on my old 242T. There is awhite plastic connecotr that the wires end in for each tail light assembly. If you have someone hold the brake down, you can wiggle this and the brake lights will work. I was able to wedge and tape it for a while, but eventually haad to replace the circut board on each side. It was one of the few bad designs on the car. I had the euro brake light conversion (4 per side lit instead of 2) and after I replaced the boards it all worked great...

Sean

 

[[email protected]]

Our 245 has a foglight switch, but no front foglights. I was thinking of wiring it to a rear foglight like the newer cars have. The lighting on the car is adequate, so I figured I'd do that.

I haven't had a warm weekend to sit down and take the car apart. I'll probably spend a long weekend this spring cleaning off all the connectors and see if that can't fix it.

 

[towerymt]

George, have you tried the rear fog light? FYI, it only works with the headlights on. Mine works, and I didn't have to do anything extra with wiring, etc.

BTW, what happened with the guy who's got some Recaro seats for sale? Are they still available?

 

[11110000]

Prospero is right about replacing pairs of bulbs - i.e., when one taillight fails, replace it's mirror image on the other side of the car at the same time. This prevents these spurious indications. A bulb failure light that flickers with the turn signal is usually due to this same reason - the extra imbalance in current flow due to the turn signal being on, even though it isn't part of the failure circuit, is enough to trip the light.

Your hi-beam problem is a little more unusual. I don't really have an explanation for that.

Follow Prospero's advice, clean all bulb contact surfaces, socket contacts, and ground connections, and replace the corresponding bulbs on the opposite sides - if you do it now, with the smae manufacturer's bulbs, you should be able to get away with it.

 

[[email protected]]

I think I'll be doing that, and I'll replace the other old bulb (mirror).

As for the Recaros, the ones I'd found were gray and in good shape from what I'm told. I didn't go see them because it was more than I wanted to pay. The guy has a WHOLE interior for a '93 VW Jetta GLI 16V that includes the front Recaros, rear seat (matching for the VW) and four door panels. He wanted $400 I believe, but I am going to try to hold out for some black Recaros as I just need fronts anyway. I can dig up his number if you are interested. He's up near Aberdeen MD but may have already sold them.

 

[towerymt]

Thanks George, but I'll pass. He'd probably want to keep the interior together as a set anyway. I may just hold out and buy Kai's seat if/when he sells his car. I really only need one, but I'd get two if the price was right.

BTW, I've got two more Volvo brochures, from 1993. One covers the sedans and one covers the wagons, and there are good pictures of all the models (240, 940, 960). Let me know if you're interested in scanning them for the gallery.

 

[[email protected]]

Hey Michael, I am but my scanner died. I'm waiting for HP to send me a replacement, but perhaps we can meet up shortly thereafter.

Regarding the Recaros, he would want to keep them as a set, I've already spoken to him about that and it's one of the reasons I didn't feel like dealing with it. $400 isn't bad for 2 Recaros in good shape, but I've seen those VW ones go for as low as $200 for a pair....though I must admit that they aren't as nice generally when they are that low....they do get ratty.