SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner
1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,911 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm replacing my front brakes this weekend, anything out of the ordinary I should be aware of or special tools needed specifically for this car? Done a lot of brake jobs in the past, but never on a Volvo and never on my R.<p>Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,019 Posts
Extremely easy. <p>Will need:<br>-Something to retract the pistons (flat head screwdriver with a rag to avoid scratches)<p>-Something to pop the retaining pins out with (I cut the point off of a nail, works perfect)<p>-Lots of cleaner... everything was disgusting when I got in there.<p>**Once the pads are loose they still weren't "easy" to get out (certainly not hard however). Wiggle back and forth/up down as much as you can and slowly shimmy them out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,911 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: (imageomega)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>imageomega</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Extremely easy. <p>Will need:<br>-Something to retract the pistons (flat head screwdriver with a rag to avoid scratches)<p>-Something to pop the retaining pins out with (I cut the point off of a nail, works perfect)<p>-Lots of cleaner... everything was disgusting when I got in there.<p>**Once the pads are loose they still weren't "easy" to get out (certainly not hard however). Wiggle back and forth/up down as much as you can and slowly shimmy them out.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Thanks, so these pistons "screw" back in, they don't simply push? I've done both and the ones you push are so easy, just put a big C-clamp on it and start cranking. I did buy a special tool for the screw ones that has all different heads on it that fit in the slots and then you hook it up to your ratchet, it worked okay, but I'm guessing none of the heads will fit on the R.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,019 Posts
No they push, not screw. Just need something to push them in with while the pads still in there, so its tight getting between pad and piston. The flathead+rag worked well for this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,481 Posts
Re: (Husker Z)

The pistons push back in. I used a pair of channel lock pliers with a rag on the painted side of the caliper and squeezed. I also used a dull nail to pop the retaining pins in. Just watch the retaining clip when you release the first pin, it may fly up towards you. Keep pressure on it until you remove that first pin, then you're okay.<p>Pads were cake to get out and put back in. Once you have the wheels off, it should take you about 20 minutes per side to remove and replace the pads, and that's taking your time.<p>Have fun with it. Easiest brakes I've done so far. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/embeer.gif" BORDER="0">
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,621 Posts
Re: (Husker Z)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Husker Z</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p>Thanks, so these pistons "screw" back in, they don't simply push? I've done both and the ones you push are so easy, just put a big C-clamp on it and start cranking. I did buy a special tool for the screw ones that has all different heads on it that fit in the slots and then you hook it up to your ratchet, it worked okay, but I'm guessing none of the heads will fit on the R. </TD></TR></TABLE><br>They do not screw back in, they are just pushed back in. <br>I like to use a pair of channel locks and a rag so as not to scratch the caliper.<br>A c-clamp may or may not work and just remember the fronts have 4 pistons and return the pistons on one side at a time. Also you will need to hold one piston in, while you return the other (on the same side) otherwise they just see-saw.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,911 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
As always thanks for the help guys. I'm not sure what the retaining clips you are talking about yet, but I'm sure it'll be obvious when I get in there. <p>Man, this site is awesome. Thanks again, I'm looking forward to less dust and less squeal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
147 Posts
Re: Removing pistons (petew)

When doing pads and rotors, what's the best sequence? Rotors first, then mount the calipers and replace the pads or pads first and then the rotors? Also, anybody know the torque setting for the caliper bolts? TIA.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
872 Posts
Re: Removing pistons (tachymetres)

You can push the pistons in with your fingers, you don't need a screwdriver. Get a punch to knock the pin out - use real tools! Easiest brake job ever - all four can be done in about half an hour. Be sure to use the gold lube on the back of the pads (if you are buying OEM pads, that is). Mine haven't squealed since I bought new pads - the factory pads squealed like crazy.<p>If you can't figure out how to swap the brakes on this car, you should take up gardening and drive a Toyota Prius!<br>
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,911 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Re: Removing pistons (jrgoffin)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>jrgoffin</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can push the pistons in with your fingers, you don't need a screwdriver. Get a punch to knock the pin out - use real tools! Easiest brake job ever - all four can be done in about half an hour. Be sure to use the gold lube on the back of the pads (if you are buying OEM pads, that is). Mine haven't squealed since I bought new pads - the factory pads squealed like crazy.<p>If you can't figure out how to swap the brakes on this car, you should take up gardening and drive a Toyota Prius!<br></TD></TR></TABLE><p>Nice! I didn't get OEM pads, I got EBC Redstuff pads, I can't stand the dust anymore. I'm not sure what I'm going to put on the back of the pads yet actually.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21,340 Posts
Re: Removing pistons (Husker Z)

This should help. <p><A HREF="http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=75225" TARGET="_blank">http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=75225</A>
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,911 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Re: Removing pistons (Needsdecaf)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Needsdecaf</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This should help. <p><A HREF="http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=75225" TARGET="_blank">http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=75225</A></TD></TR></TABLE><p>Seems easy enough, thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,492 Posts
Re: Removing pistons (Husker Z)

Even easier.<p><A HREF="http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=87164" TARGET="_blank">http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=87164</A>
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,911 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Re: Removing pistons (BeerEngineer)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>BeerEngineer</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Even easier.<p><A HREF="http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=87164" TARGET="_blank">http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=87164</A></TD></TR></TABLE><p>Awesome!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
14,831 Posts
I wouldn't recommend using a screw driver to push the pistons back in, ever.<p>Use a C-clamp of some sort to push them in. Also, be sure to open the bleeder screw. You can leave it closed and will NOT harm the ABS module by pushing fluid back into it, but the fluid has to go somewhere, and you may end up doing what I regretfully did....push one of the pistons completely out of the sleeve. I spent 2 1/2 hours getting that piston back in there because the sleeve was tapered and very tight. It was 4th down and I was ready to punt, but I finally got it back in on my last ditch effort. All I had to do was open the bleeder valve, lol <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/tongue.gif" BORDER="0">
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,962 Posts
Use your damn hands to push in the pistons.<p>Sissys.<p>I just did all 4 on my car, no way you need a tool to push them in.<p>If you do, well... I'll get you your AARP card too.<p><IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/screwy.gif" BORDER="0"><p>jk jk.<p>I've only had the cap on the reservior open, never touched a bleeder screw or anything. It is possible. If you take out one pad out of the caliper, push in the pistons, the ohter side wont pop out.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
14,831 Posts
Re: (chinaonnitrous1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>chinaonnitrous1</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><br>I've only had the cap on the reservior open, never touched a bleeder screw or anything. It is possible. If you take out one pad out of the caliper, push in the pistons, the ohter side wont pop out. </TD></TR></TABLE><p>Never said it wasn't possible; just that it is the recommended practice for pushing pads back in. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/wink.gif" BORDER="0">
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,962 Posts
Re: (phuz)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>phuz</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p>Never said it wasn't possible; just that it is the recommended practice for pushing pads back in. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/wink.gif" BORDER="0"></TD></TR></TABLE><p> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/embeer.gif" BORDER="0"> <p> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/screwy.gif" BORDER="0"> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/screwy.gif" BORDER="0"> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/screwy.gif" BORDER="0">
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
872 Posts
Re: (chinaonnitrous1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>chinaonnitrous1</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Use your damn hands to push in the pistons.<p>Sissys.<p>I just did all 4 on my car, no way you need a tool to push them in.<p>If you do, well... I'll get you your AARP card too.<p><IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/screwy.gif" BORDER="0"><p>jk jk.<p>I've only had the cap on the reservior open, never touched a bleeder screw or anything. It is possible. If you take out one pad out of the caliper, push in the pistons, the ohter side wont pop out. </TD></TR></TABLE><p>Exactly. Finger pressure is all that is needed, and with the brake reservoir cap off, it works just fine. I wouldn't want any fluid coming out of the bleeder screws and ruining the nice caliper coating.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,911 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Re: (jrgoffin)

Dude, easiest brake job ever! Pushed the calipers back in with my fingers with no trouble, cleaned up those huge Brembo calipers and put it all back together in about 30 minutes, all the while entertaining my 9 month old. She sat in her little car and learned a few things. <p>Thanks for the help guys, I guess there is SOMETHING easy to work on, on these cars. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>Now, time for a <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/embeer.gif" BORDER="0">
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top