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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Planning to flush my brake fluid soon and had some questions:

1. Order of flushing? I usually do furthest from the master cylinder but I've read that VIDA states the opposite. If it matters, I'll be bleeding it manually.

2. How much fluid do I need?

3. Is low viscosity fluid worth it?

4. Is there anything I need to do with the ABS?

Thanks
 

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DOT4 capacity of the reservoir is like .5L I'd get double that. No ABS messing around required. Follow the VIDA procedure.
 

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Using a pressure bleeder is a breeze and I highly suggest using one.
- Remove the old fluid from the reservoir, top it off with new fluid, pour the rest into the pressure bleeder,
- Prime the hose and attach the bleeder cap to the reservoir.
- Pump up the bleeder to 15psi (IIRC)
- Bleed each caliper.

15psi should be enough for you to get around to each caliper with pumping it, you don't run the risk of the reservoir running dry or damage to the master cylinder, and saves tons of time. I made one myself with an old chemical sprayer, a reservoir cap, barb fitting, RTV, and a pressure gauge, I can take some pics if you like.

1L will be enough. You can buy extra to be safe, but once opened it's not wise to store it. The LV fluid is really only useful for really cold environments. I'm using Pentosin LV and it work well, but the only reason I'm using it is because a VW specialty shop closed down a couple years ago and I got it for cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
DOT4 capacity of the reservoir is like .5L I'd get double that. No ABS messing around required. Follow the VIDA procedure.
Thanks. I also found some people saying to turn the ignition to position 2 during bleeding. This is supposedly for the ABS? Any validity to this?

Also, I'm having a tough time finding any decent brake fluid here, let alone LV fluid. I'll settle for Pentosin Super DOT4 for $16/L (CAD)
 

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unless the ABS is actually doing something it's not going to matter.

I've only ever encountered one ABS unit that needed a special procedure to bleed. mid 90s GM J body ABS is the dumbest unit on the planet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Using a pressure bleeder is a breeze and I highly suggest using one.
- Remove the old fluid from the reservoir, top it off with new fluid, pour the rest into the pressure bleeder,
- Prime the hose and attach the bleeder cap to the reservoir.
- Pump up the bleeder to 15psi (IIRC)
- Bleed each caliper.

15psi should be enough for you to get around to each caliper with pumping it, you don't run the risk of the reservoir running dry or damage to the master cylinder, and saves tons of time. I made one myself with an old chemical sprayer, a reservoir cap, barb fitting, RTV, and a pressure gauge, I can take some pics if you like.

1L will be enough. You can buy extra to be safe, but once opened it's not wise to store it. The LV fluid is really only useful for really cold environments. I'm using Pentosin LV and it work well, but the only reason I'm using it is because a VW specialty shop closed down a couple years ago and I got it for cheap.
Had a Motive pressure bleeder before but I'm interested to see how you made your own! I'm all about the ghetto.

How much did you get the LV fluid for?
 

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Heard of these but never really gave them much thought. Looks like a check valve to prevent air from entering the caliper? Maybe the missus will buy them for me so she doesn't have to help :D
they're fully awesome, with one caveat.
They come with thread sealant applied and after you use them once you need to reapply some sealant or you'll suck air back through the threads.

They work well and can even bleed a dry master properly. I kept them on the trail rig in case I had to repair brake lines in the middle of BFE. nice to be able to replace a brake line in the woods and then bleed it with no issues after the master had run dry ;)
 

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Pressure bleeder is worth it. Makes a simple flush...even simpler.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Agreed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Flushed nearly a liter of the Pentosin DOT 4 fluid using the manual method. I did FL, FR, RL, RR and then the fronts again for good measure. The old fluid looked good considering it was 4 years old, but it only had 25k km on it. I'm hoping this will address the 1-2" of "dead zone" in the brake pedal and restore some linearity in the pedal feel.
 
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