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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
07/09/14 Edit: Diagnosis points at faulty DEM. Module has been sent to XeMODeX for repair, and they discovered significant water damage to the unit.

07/12/14 Edit: Issues have been resolved! Turns out it was a bad DEM causing my problems. Please refer to this post for additional details.

Hi Everyone,

I'm having some very sudden major problems with my '04 V70R (5-speed automatic), resulting in it not being drivable. A bit about the car first: it's a higher mileage car with 480,000 km on the odometer (roughly 300,000 miles), and recent relevant work within the past year includes a new alternator and battery, iPd TCV, replacement alarm module, and a servotronic power steering relay. The car is extremely well maintained, and has never given me any problems like this in the past.

Yesterday as I was driving to the airport, the dashboard suddenly lit up like a christmas tree (check engine light, abs light, warning triangle, etc), all the instrument gauges went to 0, the trip odometer read - - -, the gear indicator read -, and the transmission locked itself in 3rd gear. The warning messages "BRAKE FAILURE - STOP SAFELY" and "ENGINE SYSTEM SERVICE REQUIRED" pop up on the cluster as well. After limping the car home, I found that if it was left to idle for a little bit, the motor would sputter out, and it would refuse to start again for a little while. Fun.

Anyways, I left the car to cool down for several hours before running a scan, and found that it started up and idled as normally, albeit with all the dashboard lights and warning messages on. A scan yielded the following codes:

ECM-E000 Control module communication - Faulty communication
ECM-E003 Configuration fault - Faulty configuration
SUM-0334 CAN-signal, BCM control unit faulty signal
SUM-E000 Control module communication Signal missing
SUM-E003 Control module communication Configuration fault
BCM-0058 Power supply Voltage too high
BCM-0139 Pre-pressure valve power brake booster Signal outside its permitted range
CEM-1A5E Communication with SAS control module Signal missing
CEM-1A64 Communication with AOC control module Signal missing
CEM-1A65 Communication with SUM control module Signal missing
SAS-E003 Configuration fault Faulty configuration
SUM-0201 Control module Signal too low
SUM-0324 CAN-signal, BCM control unit Signal missing
SUM-0337 CAN-signal, SAS control unit Faulty signal

Phew. What a list. From my understanding, a majority of these codes were likely caused due to a cascade of error triggering caused by a single source.

Anyways, I cleared everything while in the driveway, and ran a SUM calibration (among other calibrations and tests), as well as tested all the valves associated with the BCM to check for problems, and everything seemed fine, and the problem had gone away. Took the car up to operating temperature, drove it around the block a few times (I'm sure my neighbours were thrilled to hear my iPd exhaust humming around the block after dark), and the problem did not manifest again. I read a bit and determined that this might just be a one-time occurrence, and that simply clearing all codes may have resolve the issue. Unfortunately this was not the case. I made the foolish mistake of trusting the car this morning, a mistake I have made many times in the past, and the problem decided to rear its ugly head again on my way to work. I unfortunately had left my diagnostic equipment at home, and had to abandon the vehicle on a side street so I could get to work.

Now, I've done quite a bit of reading as to what may be causing the problem, and only seem to find answers from the S60/V70/XC70/S80 crowd, so hopefully their findings might be applicable to my scenario. With the list of codes I provided, people tend to point their fingers at a faulty BCM, brake booster, ignition switch, alternator, battery, or battery cables. In one instance, I read that it may have been due to ECU/TCM overheating due to a faulty fan that cools the box in which the control units are housed. I'm leaning away from the alternator/battery, as both had been recently replaced.

The BCM could be a possible culprit, but from what I've read, a faulty BCM would typically trigger multiple specific codes, and not just a single one for the pre-pressure valve on the power brake booster. New BCMs are incredibly expensive, but can be rebuilt by a gentleman named Victor for around $150, so that seems somewhat reasonable, if it is indeed the problem. My hunch is leaning towards the pre-pressure valve in the brake booster itself, due to it being the only specific fault found in the scan; it may have triggered a fault, which lead to a BCM, fault, which cascaded down to a multiple system failure in the vehicle. Unfortunately, the repair sounds pretty labour intensive, and the part itself is quite expensive.

So I must ask the question: does anyone have any idea what might be truly wrong? I will run another scan this evening and see if the same codes are present from the second manifestation of the problem.

Also, thanks for being willing to read through this essay of a post :)
 

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Ok, so, it's an '04, and it's having severe communications problems along its CANBUS network. It's also June, so down here in MD it's hitting 100 degrees. How's the weather up in your neck of the woods? Is it really hot as well? I'm wondering if your electronics are overheating (ECU, TCM, etc). I second your thought about faulty cooling of your ECU; in auto-equipped cars, the TCM right next to the ECU is harder to cool than the manual R's with just the ECU in the box. The 850 series cars have a hose to pull in ambient air from the radiator shroud and duct it into the box; in our P2's, they pull cabin air into the box via a fan. I agree with you, you should look at the fan and see if it's workin'. :)

-Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
usgiorgi: I haven't hooked up a multimeter to the battery when running, but I recall reading the battery voltages in VIDA during tests the other day. With the car running at idle, VIDA read 13.5-13.6V, and with the engine off running diagnostics, I read around 11.8, and dropped to 11.4 at the lowest as I was doing diagnostics for a little while (interior lights were on, accessories were on, xenon lights were on).

FORD420diesel: It hasn't been overly warm up here in Canada the past few days, and today it's only 19ºC (~65ºF). I agree with your idea of the fan needing to be checked; I recall reading in a previous thread that someone had their fan all gummed up and jammed, so I shall examine that. I'm just surprised, because the car barely made it 2km away from the house today, just reaching operating temperature. Yesterday evening while running diagnostics, I had it at operating temperature for a while without issue. Regardless, I shall check the fan! Is it physically located inside the ECU/TCM box, or is it inline with the hose that provides cooling to the modules? Hopefully no permanent damage was done to the ECU/TCM!
 

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To be honest with you this sound like a Battery problem.. Had this happen i replaced it and work fine. But do you have a dealer near you? they can tell you what is wrong and then you can fix it yourself or let them do it. Also i think you ECU is done for or needs an update. Did a dealer change the battery or did you do it yourself?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
usgiorgi: Yup! She's certainly been good to me, though the car would be even more amazing if it ran ;)



Looks pretty good, even after all those miles!

mau5pad: I replaced the battery with a new one about 5 months ago, and I'm confident that it's not causing any problems, although I will still double check voltages with a multimeter. The old battery was definitely bad, and while it caused me a number of problems, the car never acted like this. I'm honestly not really one to go to the dealership for anything other than the occasional alignment ;)

Another theory I have floating around in my head is that a few solder joints on the ECU may have broken and would need to be remelted, resulting in all these communication faults. If the fan is indeed jammed, I will look into opening up and inspecting the ECU for broken solder joints.
 

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Im chasing a similar problem on our 04. Initial step was to replace the cem. (Happening now). Will see if that at least gets it down to 1 consistent error.
 

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Sharp R. Great color. Our 04 XC70 had multiple lights on the dash and went into limp mode after a long drive. Happened a few times in December. Local Volvo suggested to watch for what happened first as there were multiple codes set. I removed the CEM and sent to XeMODeX. Quick turn around and no issues since. Suggest contacting XeMODeX for advice. No, I don't work for them, just a satisfied customer. The 01 - 04 CEMs overheat and cause random failures. XeMODeX adds a heat sink to the computer chip and downloads the car specific information to a rebuilt CEM. Plug and play with a lifetime warranty.
 

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Have you disconnected the battery for an extended period (10 minutes or more) with the key switched on? Let everything reset and then see what happens. It may be beneficial to use VIDA to datalog the battery voltage to see what it does. You may have replaced your alternator recently, but that doesn't rule out a bad voltage regulator or unit as a whole.
Congrats on the high mileage! That is awesome. My R is such a baby at 131k miles. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Did some more diagnostics last night, and pulled the following codes:

CEM-1A64 Communication with AOC control module Signal missing
CEM-E000 Control module communication Faulty communication
CEM-DF15 CAN-H, high speed network
SUM-0334 CAN-signal, BCM control unit Faulty signal

I cleared these, and the following would not clear and just kept coming back immediately, without warning messages going away:

CEM-1A64 Communication with AOC control module signal missing
SUM-0334 CAN-signal, BCM control unit Faulty signal

These were all in conjunction with the ANTI-SKID SERVICE REQUIRED, CHASSIS SETTINGS TEMPORARILY OFF, and BRAKE FAILURE STOP SAFELY messages. After clearing codes, the BRAKE FAILURE message did not return, but the ANTI-SKID message persisted. Was able to drive the car home, and it drove normally, other than the persistent anti-skid message. All instruments worked, transmission shifted fine, etc.

Once home, I did some more battery diagnostics, and I must have been mistaken previously with what I said previously with battery voltage (previously said 13.5-13.6 based off memory). With some monitoring with the car at idle, alternator continuously churns out between 13.9 to 14.1V, and the battery voltage is good with power off (11.8-11.9V). I will datalog the battery voltages next opportunity I have to work on the car; I wanted to have a look at the ECU/TCM box fan last night and run some more tests, but it started raining a bit too hard, so I had to call it a night. Looks like a lot of rain in the forecast for tonight as well.

From here on, I think it might be worthwhile to inspect the ECU box fan, pursue a CEM rebuild, and if it still persists, look into a BCM rebuild.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Also, I should note that I have lately been having some Haldex DEM pump codes (DEM-0006) in conjunction with what has occurred a couple days ago. I'm considering replacing the haldex pump as well, as it might be linked to the AOC control module code I got.

Edit: Come to think of it, what would the likelihood be of some of these issues being linked to a faulty DEM?
 

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From your latest update, I'm shifting blame to the CEM. Good that you've eliminated the battery and alternator! :)

-Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Went to Volvo to pick up oil and a filter for the haldex system, and happened to speak to a tech regarding this. He told me that a failed haldex pump (something I was planning on replacing anyways) will cause a fuse for the DEM to blow, resulting in the "CEM-1A64 Communication with AOC control module Signal missing" code being thrown. He mentioned that once this code has been thrown, it will display an 'Anti-Skid System Service Required' message on the instrument cluster, and can cause the CAN-bus to be screwy. I will start with ordering a replacement haldex pump, replacing that, and taking it from there. If the problem persists, I will have the CEM rebuilt.
 

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SixerFixer, Please keep us posted. I have an 04 R with manual transmission that has been doing the same thing for months. I have had it to 2 Volvo dealers and the best they have been able to advise is to replace the ECM and "see" if that takes care of it. I dont have that kind of money to throw at the problem just to test their theory. Mine is not hot weather related - I parked it in the garage in Feb when it died in my work parking lot. I took it out to replace a wheel (Pothole in Feb) and gas it up this weekend and made it 2 miles before the AC went off, brake warning lights came on and all gages stopped. Drove it back to garage and parked it - checked to see if it would start on Monday - no luck. The local Volvo dealer replaced the battery and checked the alternator in September.
 

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I will say that prior to shipping out my DEM to xemodex I had the same codes show up in Vida. After replacement all issues gone. Except for yesterday when I had a brake failure show up, but was just a lose battery terminal from some fire road driving.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I purchased a new Haldex pump today; I will swap it in, as well as perform a haldex oil/filter change, and see what happens. I found a XeMODeX flowchart for testing the DEM, and am providing access to it here:

Link!
 

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I'm having CEM issues right now as well. I've pulled the module and I'm going to send it to XeMODex this week. I'm getting tired of my R spending more time in the garage than on the road.
 

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I had the same thing happen last summer. The dash lit up about 10-15 miles after I drove through a flooded road. :facepalm:

I parked for about 10 minutes and was able to drive home with no warning lights and no problems. Knock on wood, this hasn't happened again, although I now have the Anti-Skid DEM problem. Xemodex is going to look after it under warranty when I have time to give up the car for a few days.

I thought I was in the running for the high-mileage title as I close in on 200K. Must be a Ti 04 VR thing. :bow:

 

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since you have to drop your drive shaft to get your pump out i highly suggest repacking your cv joints! i changed my pump and then 3 weeks later my cv was clicking and i had to get back under there and pull it out again!

take the time to mark your drive shaft where it joins the aoc coupling. makes getting the hex bolts back in way easier!
 
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