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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Driving today, get a " brake failure" and " ABS" messages but nothing changes. Start driving home, no messages pop up until I'm close to home, the same two messages pop up but now I notice a ride difference. It sounded or felt like there was stuff jostling under the car, then it would sound like a lot of rubber was rubbing on something. While this was going on, the car seemed like it jolted or shifted over the the drivers side of the car slightly, but like i was drifting or something almost. It didn't sound or feel right, but nothing was hanging down.

Any Ideas? I got a crappy video of the sound, but its not the helpful.

Could it be simple as like new brake pads and stuff?
 

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Here is what i would do personally

Inspect brake assembly and make sure everything is tight and looks okay, take off the caliper and inspect them including the pads.
Inspect the ABS sensor and make sure its not split or unconnected.
Inspect master cylinder to see if it's lacking fluid.
ABS control module can be faulty but you need to scan the car to know if there's communication.

Scan the car with vida/dice to check where the codes come from and what has failed exactly.

If you hear rubbing sound you may have a sticking brake, make sure the cylinders in the calipers are pushing in and out properly.

Is the car braking properly ? Is it pulling to the side only when you brake or even when driving ?

Goodluck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
When I put it in cruise control, I felt like it drove a hell of a lot better with less noise.

I feel like the braking, took like a second to catch or kick in. Something was causing the car to pull to the drivers side, but then correct itself.
 

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You need to scan your car to find the exact cause for the warning, anything else is wild guesswork that is likely to get you nowhere.
+1 I had the same thing on another car and just got my rebuilt brake control module back, which solved the problem. Couldn't have fixed it without VIDA and XeMODeX's flow charts.
 

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I'm not a betting man...but if I was, I would say it's your BCM. Send it to Xemodex.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Friend came over and said the brake pads look fine, but the rotors have a good lip on them, but that docent really explain the noise.

Just in my driveway I drove around, and in reverse there was a clunking of some sort especially when I hit the brakes. Haven't taken it out of the driveway yet, but might later to see if we can figure it out more.

Going to get it on my friends lift tonight I think to see if we can see anything obvious
 

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Warning lights do not come up for mechanical problems, only electric. Need the car scanned. It's likely BCM. If codes point to BCM, go with BBA Reman, much cheaper than Xemodex with same lifetime warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Okay cool, did not know that.
When I started the car today, I only got the "Anti skid temp off" with an ABS light on the right side.
I ordered a scanner, should be here within a few days which isn't too helpful.

these car troubles always happen when I need my car the most. I know on Xemodex its really really quick shipping and return time, is Reman just as quick but a lot cheaper?
 

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Hm, anti ski temporarily off comes on when the battery is low on charge, i know because i had a dead battery earlier this week and it kept turning antiskid off everytime it was getting too low. Went away when i charged the battery, check your battery's condition... who knows.

But yeah once you scan the scar youll know your problem, when i scanned mine once i got anti skid temp off it was saying that my battery was low on power, nothing beats a scan.

It's pretty uncommon for brake components to have any clunk sound, it should be more like a rubbing soung than anything else and would only be caused by caliper/rotor/pads, but that wouldnt throw an electrical code. Is your AWD working when you dont have the anti-skid temp off message ? ( btw that message means that your AWD is turned off ).

Try resetting the car by removing the battery cables and either touch them together for 5 minutes or let the car sit unpowered for 30 minutes so all the modules can drain their charge and reset, start the car and see if anything pops up again. If nothing pops up drive the car around for 15-30 minutes, if nothing comes up call yourself blessed but get the scar scanned anyways because it can be a internal stored code, ensure that your AWD is working after you reset the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Damn, theres a very very new battery in it. I guess it could have drained a bit knowing volvos. I could try that too.
 

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Okay cool, did not know that.
When I started the car today, I only got the "Anti skid temp off" with an ABS light on the right side.
I ordered a scanner, should be here within a few days which isn't too helpful.

these car troubles always happen when I need my car the most. I know on Xemodex its really really quick shipping and return time, is Reman just as quick but a lot cheaper?
When BCM craps out, it will throw different errors depending on connectivity of cracked soldering inside the unit. With BBA, it was quick too. Took 1 day to repair and ship back. It was under $200 with return shipping included about a year ago if you do it through ebbay. On their website, it was much more expensive. If you do through ebbay, make sure that part number of your BCM is in the listing.
 

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