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Discussion Starter #1
Afternoon all,

I am looking to track my P* for track day use under instruction here in the UK, and have concerns over brake cooling, heard a malicious rumour that it wasn't great on these, any one toyed with or installed after market ducts/pipework for cooling?

Mark,
 

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Afternoon all,

I am looking to track my P* for track day use under instruction here in the UK, and have concerns over brake cooling, heard a malicious rumour that it wasn't great on these, any one toyed with or installed after market ducts/pipework for cooling?

Mark,
First thing I would start with is top quality Fluid. Get some Castrol SRF React racing. Flush it through.
 

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First thing I would start with is top quality Fluid. Get some Castrol SRF React racing. Flush it through.
Another conservative measure would be to install titanium shims. These probably won't help much with very aggressive stops but they should provide some "buffer" by shielding the brake pistons from heat. I have not tried those myself yet - just bought them along with some heat sensing stickers (planning to try those ti shims on one side first to see if the stickers will show any difference in max temperature).

Edit: on the other hand, air ducts would be a lot more efficient overall.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Already changed the Brake Fluid for a better performing one, or at least the fluid is waiting at home ready for me returning from my offshore stint.

Reluctant to do away with the current brake setup at the moment, but when I do I have my eye on the rotora gear, looks top notch, but want to get a feel for the car on track prior to making one change at a time.
 

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I have not done any cooling yet other then removing the dust shields behind all rotors. Ran Mosport a few weeks back, and this is a fast track and had good luck with DTC 60 hawk pads. No fade at all. Still stock fluid
 

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A good solution is to create a cooling scoop with a sleeve to dissipate the heat. a fresh air scoop is also needed in the front mudguard
 

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Generally the easiest is to create some ducting to force air onto the discs.

Pads are designed to operate in a specific temperature range. Factory pads are designed to work as soon as you start the car cold, that's why they tend to go bad at the track. Race pads are designed to work at high temperatures, which is why they don't work when cold. Ideally you need a pad that's going to operate in the temperature range you are going to be using the in.
 
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