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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've done a bit of searching and am arriving at some different information. Can someone confirm for me that the proper bleed order for the R is:<p>Clutch<br>Rear passenger<br>Rear driver<br>Front passenger<br>Front driver<p><b>or is it:</b><p>Clutch, Left Front, first do the inner bleed nipple, then the outer. Repeat for all other wheels in this order: RF,LR,RR. Inner bleeder first, then outer<p>Also, how are most people collecting the brake fluid off of the bleed valve?<p>Finally, is the bleed valve wrench size 11mm in the front and 9 mm rears?<p>Thanks<br>
 

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I always start from the farthest point out and work my way back to the resivoir. <br>so rear , front , clutch. <br>Its also inner bled nipples first then outers<br>Just put a wrag under the caliper and catch the run off. <p>I thought fronts and rear where the same at 9mm will let you know this week since I have to do all mine on the XC since I went front and rear R Calipers and manual swap <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: (hastee)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>hastee</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is there a way to 'bleed' the fluid in the abs system without a control program override?</TD></TR></TABLE><p> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/confused.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>theres brake fluid wich makes your clutch work and your brakes work ...... <br>that is done by what I listed above not sure what else your talking about.
 

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Re: (Chilled Man)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Chilled Man</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I always start from the farthest point out and work my way back to the resivoir. <br>so rear , front , clutch. <br> </TD></TR></TABLE><p>per VADIS: left front, right front, left rear, right rear.<p>Before this Volvo, I was always one to go from the furthest point from the master cylinder to the closest. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/screwy.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Agreed hmm wierd well good to know <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Shortest to farthest on a good portion of European cars. Most American cars are farthest to shortest.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Re: (JoshV70_)

Thanks all
 

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Re: (Johnr352)

I've always done farthest to closest on my R and T5 (on the R, outer caliper first too) and never had any problems. I've never bled the clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
FV-QR

I bled mine, including the clutch, and it all seemed to go fine. Brakes are a little better. I notice that when stopped, for example, I can push in the pedal hard, and it will slowly sink to the floor. I can't recall, but thought this was normal but please remind me if so or not.
 

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Re: FV-QR (Johnr352)

Pedal that sinks to the floor slowly usually is an indication of a bad master cylinder. I know - I've had that same problem in another car. Are you having this problem in your 2007??? You'll want to fix this without delay!
 

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Re: (Warpedcow)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Warpedcow</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've always done farthest to closest on my R and T5 (on the R, outer caliper first too) and never had any problems. I've never bled the clutch.</TD></TR></TABLE><br>I bleed the inner caliper 1st, then outer caliper. Clean fluid is coming from the master cylinder, and passes through the inner half of the caliper to get to the outer half. By doing the inner caliper 1st, you can be assured that clean fluid is reaching the outer caliper when you open the outer bleed valve.
 

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Re: Brake bleed order (Johnr352)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Johnr352</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p><br>Also, how are most people collecting the brake fluid off of the bleed valve?<p><br></TD></TR></TABLE><p>I always use a length of clear flexible Tygon tubing that I push onto the bleeder valve, and put the other end into a clear bottle to collect the old brake fluid. I keep various diameters of Tygon tubing in my toolbox, since I work on various makes of cars. I pick whichever tubing gives me a snug fit. If not snug, the tubing will pop off and make a big mess all over those shiny R calipers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Re: FV-QR (MAC1LSR)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>MAC1LSR</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Pedal that sinks to the floor slowly usually is an indication of a bad master cylinder. I know - I've had that same problem in another car. Are you having this problem in your 2007??? You'll want to fix this without delay!</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Thanks!<p>I notice that my wife's XC90 exhibits something of the same behavior. At rest, in park (hers is auto) I can press hard on the pedal and have it sink slowly to the floor. It's hard to do this though, or in her case, harder then in mine. <p>Mine is an '07 with 14k so it could be a bad master cylinder. I hate to take it in unless other R's are distinctly different. Do others sink to the floor slowly or do they stop? Thanks
 

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Re: FV-QR (Johnr352)

The brake pedals in both of my Volvos stay firm no matter how long I press on them, as they should. Maybe you have tremendous leg strength and manage to overcome the seals in your master cylinder in 2 different cars!
 

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Re: FV-QR (MAC1LSR)

I can push my brakes to the floor (or darn close) but it doesn't ever just sink, it takes progressively more force the whole way down, and I darn near feel like I'm going to break something just pushing so hard. I'd also never need to push this hard, it takes far less force to threshold brake/trigger the ABS on dry sticky pavement.
 

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Re: FV-QR (MAC1LSR)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>MAC1LSR</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The brake pedals in both of my Volvos stay firm no matter how long I press on them, as they should. Maybe you have tremendous leg strength and manage to overcome the seals in your master cylinder in 2 different cars!</TD></TR></TABLE><p><A HREF="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Festivus" TARGET="_blank">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Festivus</A><p> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: FV-QR (Chilled Man)

That's what it is, a Feat of Strength
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Re: FV-QR (MAC1LSR)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>MAC1LSR</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The brake pedals in both of my Volvos stay firm no matter how long I press on them, as they should. Maybe you have tremendous leg strength and manage to overcome the seals in your master cylinder in 2 different cars!</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Well, I am a sight to behold, all rippling muscles and such... but I'm pretty sure that the the other descriptions I've read indicate the XC90 is normal and the R is suspect. I'll take it in and have it checked. Thanks
 

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I am going to be doing this today. I guess the best advice is to follow VADIS which recommends LF, RF, LR, RR? I was always taught the opposite. What makes this car different?

I would think it's ok to open inner and outer bleeds at the same time. Anyone have input on that?

Also, anyone running non-Volvo brake fluid? I know how finicky these cars can be with fluids. Not sure if brake fluid is in that category.
 
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