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I just installed an IPD boost gauge on my 05' R that i just got a couple months ago. I was wondering what the stock vacuum should be. I know it should have around 14.7psi boost in higher gears. My gauge is showing 8psi max and spikes to 10 during shifts. The vacuum is reading -18 to -22 while driving & decelerating. I checked for leaks and found a slight kink in the hose. I replaced the ferrals and hose. Gauge is still reading the same and I cannot find any leaks. Any ideas? Thanks ahead of time!
 

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I think the iPd gauges are miscalibrated for some reason. I am showing about 17-18psi on a Stage 2 tune. I just swapped another motor in my R and have replaced all worn/cracked hoses and turbo control hoses are all silicone. I will have to see what kind of readings I get with another gauge.
 

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Keep me updated.
 

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Vac is in mmHG, not PSI. Your vac readings are completely normal. Seems your boost is a bit low though. The question is, is it the gauge or is it the car?
 

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I think the iPd gauges are miscalibrated for some reason. I am showing about 17-18psi on a Stage 2 tune. I just swapped another motor in my R and have replaced all worn/cracked hoses and turbo control hoses are all silicone. I will have to see what kind of readings I get with another gauge.
That's all I see.
 

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2005 S60R, 2021 XC60 T6 Inscription AWD
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With all these threads regarding the update gauge and low readings I am thinking I don't want to buy one but it looks perfect. Has IPD ever admitted false readings or anything? Whats another option in the same price range ready to go install as the IPD one is?

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk
 

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My iPd gauge makes a rattling noise at high boost, the needle also vibrates at high boost. I can't tell if my low readings are from a leak inside the gauge or from a miscalibrated gauge. But I know something is wrong with mine due to the noise and vibrating needle.
 

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My iPd gauge makes a rattling noise at high boost, the needle also vibrates at high boost. I can't tell if my low readings are from a leak inside the gauge or from a miscalibrated gauge. But I know something is wrong with mine due to the noise and vibrating needle.
Using the plastic line? It's likely broken.
 

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Using the plastic line? It's likely broken.
I highly doubt it, i haven't kinked or bent it at all, this is the third boost gauge I have installed so I am 99% sure I installed it correctly.
I'm just not sure whether or not the main rear screw is loose or what, I can't get an accurate reading at WOT.
 

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With all these threads regarding the update gauge and low readings I am thinking I don't want to buy one but it looks perfect. Has IPD ever admitted false readings or anything? Whats another option in the same price range ready to go install as the IPD one is?

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk
This uses an electronic sender so you can make your tubing as short as you want from the intake. Lessens chance for leaks, kinks, breaks etc... I secured the sender inside the empty space in the fuse box under the hood. Boost tube is maybe 15 inches long.

http://prosportgauges.com/evo-electrical-boost-gauge.aspx
 

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My iPd gauge makes a rattling noise at high boost, the needle also vibrates at high boost. I can't tell if my low readings are from a leak inside the gauge or from a miscalibrated gauge. But I know something is wrong with mine due to the noise and vibrating needle.
Mine does the same thing and I'm using a single length of 4mm silicone tubing from the gauge all the way to the T fitting. I haven't tried pressure testing the line but I might one day. I see up to about 15PSI at WOT and -20 at idle. I have no mods that would affect the boost pressures. I always figured it was normal for the gauge to flutter a bit.
 

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do you have any pictures of this installed? how well does the blue match?
I installed over the center speaker on the dash with a matching volt meter.



Sorry, I don't have a picture with the whole dash at night but it goes well with the R gauge faces.
 

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I installed over the center speaker on the dash with a matching volt meter.



Sorry, I don't have a picture with the whole dash at night but it goes well with the R gauge faces.

It looks good, just might be too bright and standoutish to me. Im picky
 

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^ There is a dimmer option, just another wire to splice into the 12v power. I opted not to use it.
 

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Mine does the same thing and I'm using a single length of 4mm silicone tubing from the gauge all the way to the T fitting. I haven't tried pressure testing the line but I might one day. I see up to about 15PSI at WOT and -20 at idle. I have no mods that would affect the boost pressures. I always figured it was normal for the gauge to flutter a bit.
If you want to eliminate the flutter (and possibly prolong the life of your boost gauge), you can install an inline filter in the tubing.

The filter will prevent any particulate/vapors from reaching the boost gauge and will also act as a dampener for any small fluctuations in the boost level, which will smooth out the fluttering.

My prosport boost gauge came with an inline filter (and its an electronic boost gauge, so the electronic sender and/or controller may have some functionality built into it to filter out fluctuations), but I installed a cheap inline fuel filter like the one pictured below in the raw boost line for the TCV.

You should be able to find a similar one for < $5 and use it in the boost line for your boost gauge.

 

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I installed a cheap inline fuel filter like the one pictured below in the raw boost line for the TCV.
Great idea. I like your moves.
 

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That's pretty nice looking, but kind of bright. I assume there's a dimmer. Why volt meter instead of oil temp?
 

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That's pretty nice looking, but kind of bright. I assume there's a dimmer. Why volt meter instead of oil temp?
There is a dimmer. Out of curiosity, how would we go about getting an oil temp and pressure gauge hooked up to our caRs? Do we use a filter sandwich??

Of more relevance, my boost gauge from IPD also floats around -20inHG at idle and goes between 8-10psi under load. Once it went to 12-13 when I slammed it in Advanced.

It seems we're all getting pretty consistent readings from the gauge.

Also, mine fluttered at first, so I replaced the boost line and ferrules with a AutoMeter set:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00062YWLU/ref=oh_o02_s01_i01_details

The line wasn't coiled nearly as tightly as the IPD one and seemed a little more forgiving. My flutter has disappeared as well.
 

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That's pretty nice looking, but kind of bright. I assume there's a dimmer. Why volt meter instead of oil temp?
Voltage is a must as I am installing multiple amps and batteries for my audio fix this summer. Same style oil temp and AFR gauges to be installed on the A pillar as well.

Dimmer is just another wire connected to 12v power which I did not use. It's not as bright as the picture portrays.
 
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