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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Only getting at max, 6psi then dropping off to 4-5. Replaced cbv, replaced bcs with ipd tcv, silicone vac lines, no piping leaks, fuel pump replaced, pcv system done, oil changed, injectors clean, fuel system treated, engine seafoamed, transmission fluid transfused, air filter changed, ignition overhaul, waste gate actuator adjusted properly, mass air flow sensor replaced, no codes.

Wtf is going on!? It has 82k miles, can this turbo actually be bad? I barely hear it spool when WOT, how does anyone else's R's sound stock? I know its inaccurate, but how far should the stock boost gauge show when WOT...

If it makes a difference, which its probably a red flag, i was playing with the turbine when i had the turbo intake pipe off... i spun it with my fingers, it spun perfectly, but then when i pushed on the shaft, I heard it hit the housing. However... I don't hear the compressor wheel hitting the housing while running.

Ive already ordered a rebuild kit and compressor wheel. Is it worth going through and rebuilding this turbo? HELP! My 97' GLT w/ manual swap was faster than this R! :'(

has anyone ever heard of a turbo going at 82k? this car did sit for a few months in climate controlled storage without being started.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
UPDATE
Removed the turbo today, some pictures, lend me some suggestions. Compressor wheel is a bit chewed up. Is that the culprit?
Core is going out this week for rebalancing, should be back on the road within two weeks.
dirty azz turbo. 82k miles.

compressor wheel still in the housing... obviously there was a housing strike (or multiple) in the past.

damaged blades.


old vs. new



please discuss. should this fix my boost problem? this is the last possible thing i could think of.
im not too familiar with turbochargers... is this compressor wheel in such a shape that it would seriously affect boost?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
polished the inside of the compressor housing with a very fine emory cloth. very fine swirls remain, but there are no protruding nicks anymore and i barely removed much material, minimizing the change in gap between housing and wheel.
i will upload pictures tomorrow.
 

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I wouldn't think the housing nicks would matter. I'd be more concerned with how the turbine got damaged in the first place. Did a nut or bolt get sucked down there?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
i have absolutely no idea. I'm the 6th owner so anything could have happened. the car is pristine however, and at 82k, i couldn't see how anything could have happened.
there isn't any marking on the housing that would suggest a housing strike. it must have sucked something in somewhere along its lifetime that it didn't like.
car runs beautifully however ( besides the fact that i couldn't build more than 4-6lbs of boost) and when I pulled it, it had no in/out shaft play and minimal side to side play. i read somewhere that when spinning at 150krpm, a small bit of paper from the filter could in a sense do this damage. there is no obvious damage downstream from the compressor wheel to suggest that something broke off and wrecked havoc. and I've seen all of the intake valves, they have no damage/crust to them.
I'm just going to shrug my head and not think anything of it. my core should be back this week from the shop and it will be ready to go back in :D
as for a nut/bolt... i think i wouldn't have a compressor wheel left if a nut or bolt got sucked in o_O
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
any suggestions if you've had the same ****-up.
noticed the smell of burning oil a day or two after the install.
carbon buildup on rear of wagon, oil all along the underside (smell came from it burning off of the cat), small drips of oil immediately after running, not while sitting.
checked oil, replaced as was necessary.
i believe my problem is in the oil return line. either its leaking at the turbo or at the oil pan.
i was not able to see the hole from underneath during install. is it possible i ruined the tube seal at the pan? is that purchasable?
how tight did those little hex wrench nuts need to be cranked on?
ill be able to know more once i can get my car on the lift at my buddies shop.
 

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Is the car up and running?

Only getting at max, 6psi then dropping off to 4-5. Replaced cbv, replaced bcs with ipd tcv, silicone vac lines, no piping leaks, fuel pump replaced, pcv system done, oil changed, injectors clean, fuel system treated, engine seafoamed, transmission fluid transfused, air filter changed, ignition overhaul, waste gate actuator adjusted properly, mass air flow sensor replaced, no codes.

Wtf is going on!? It has 82k miles, can this turbo actually be bad? I barely hear it spool when WOT, how does anyone else's R's sound stock? I know its inaccurate, but how far should the stock boost gauge show when WOT...

If it makes a difference, which its probably a red flag, i was playing with the turbine when i had the turbo intake pipe off... i spun it with my fingers, it spun perfectly, but then when i pushed on the shaft, I heard it hit the housing. However... I don't hear the compressor wheel hitting the housing while running.

Ive already ordered a rebuild kit and compressor wheel. Is it worth going through and rebuilding this turbo? HELP! My 97' GLT w/ manual swap was faster than this R! :'(

has anyone ever heard of a turbo going at 82k? this car did sit for a few months in climate controlled storage without being started.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Is the car up and running?
yes. rebuild went perfectly besides a misaligned drain tube which was causing my oil leak.
replaced seal and reinstalled, everything is golden.
the difference is night and day. im glad it was something as simple as the turbo.

it also helped that i did a manual swap. my auto box was slipping terribly.
 
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