[Seanie626]

I have a 2.4t s60 2002 and since I bought about a month ago I've noticed on the boost gauge I stick around 4psi and I know that's a little low but at random times ( nothing that I specifically do makes it happen) I'll spike to 10psi for a quick second and it feels great but immediately dies back to 4 and will continue to fluctuate from 4-10psi and then will all of a sudden stop and keep at 4psi. I've swapped the tcv from the parts car and same thing only 4psi. I am fairly new to volvo. I'm 90% sure there's no leaks in hoses and intercooler it only has 121k kms and I'm looking to button this issue up because I'd like to properly feel what the car has to offer before I get it tuned and whatnot. Where should I start? I've noticed a 6086 code.never throws a check engine light tho. I need dire help as too me not having a volvo dealership within 4 hours of my location and the "volvo" shop here would charge me 100$+ to even touch the car, if you guys could point me in the right direction that would be fantastic. Thanks.

 

[Eric T Johnson]

I think you are on the right track. A sudden change in boost pressure sounds like a valve somewhere in the system that is not working properly. The turbo takes a few seconds to spool up, and once it is spinning, a few seconds to spool down.

 

[Seanie626]

I think you are on the right track. A sudden change in boost pressure sounds like a valve somewhere in the system that is not working properly. The turbo takes a few seconds to spool up, and once it is spinning, a few seconds to spool down.

Correct just wont hold solidly at where it should be

 

[Seanie626]

Also the wastegate doesn't pull vacuum at idle I was told that's messed up
Could that be the wastegate not sealing properly?

 

[Eric T Johnson]

When the wastegate valve is closed, 100% of the available exhaust gas goes to the hot side of the turbocharger, and the turbo spins up. When boost pressure reaches the maximum, the wastegate valve opens, and some of the exhaust gas stream is bled away, into the exhaust pipe. This reduces the speed of the turbo, and lowers boost pressure. If boost pressure is low, it could be that the wastegate is opening too soon, but there might be something else wrong with the turbo. I have not yet had to dig into this particular system on my 2005 Volvo 2.5T.

 

[billqueenis]

I have a 2.4t s60 2002 and since I bought about a month ago I've noticed on the boost gauge I stick around 4psi and I know that's a little low but at random times ( nothing that I specifically do makes it happen) I'll spike to 10psi for a quick second and it feels great but immediately dies back to 4 and will continue to fluctuate from 4-10psi and then will all of a sudden stop and keep at 4psi. I've swapped the tcv from the parts car and same thing only 4psi. I am fairly new to volvo. I'm 90% sure there's no leaks in hoses and intercooler it only has 121k kms and I'm looking to button this issue up because I'd like to properly feel what the car has to offer before I get it tuned and whatnot. Where should I start? I've noticed a 6086 code.never throws a check engine light tho. I need dire help as too me not having a volvo dealership within 4 hours of my location and the "volvo" shop here would charge me 100$+ to even touch the car, if you guys could point me in the right direction that would be fantastic. Thanks.

You may need to replace the wastegate. Overtime the pinhole of the wastegate stretches/enlargens and becomes an oval, which results in very inconsistent boost, and delayed timing of everthing.

 

[Seanie626]

When the wastegate valve is closed, 100% of the available exhaust gas goes to the hot side of the turbocharger, and the turbo spins up. When boost pressure reaches the maximum, the wastegate valve opens, and some of the exhaust gas stream is bled away, into the exhaust pipe. This reduces the speed of the turbo, and lowers boost pressure. If boost pressure is low, it could be that the wastegate is opening too soon, but there might be something else wrong with the turbo. I have not yet had to dig into this particular system on my 2005 Volvo 2.5T.

Yours is a higher flow variant I'm pretty sure mine is a low flow turbo but should be around 8psi I'm thinking abt replacing the wastgate but can't find where to buy one I have news tho today I pulled a new code it was a wastegate actuator a code I can't remember the code off by heart I'll update later I might just replace the turbo but at the same time it's at 121000 kms and that's very young but it is a 2002 I'm stumped if so one can find a part number I'd be happy

 

[Trinder]

This happened to my 2017 at 50000km. I got the turbo replaced under warranty. Thing is, I was driving this car daily, definitely in boost on every drive.
Think of all the turbo'd sports cars that spend their entire winters in garages, only to be driven on the odd, fair weather day, usually just a short distance. Are they eating actuators every season? Seems like this is just a crappy part/design by VW. I almost dumped my car over this. I'm crossing my fingers it doesn't happen again now that I am out of warranty..
I've heard of the "anti-seize" fix, but also heard that it is only temporary and the wastegate can seize internally, at some of the points you can't get penetrating oil on.

 

[Seanie626]

This happened to my 2017 at 50000km. I got the turbo replaced under warranty. Thing is, I was driving this car daily, definitely in boost on every drive.
Think of all the turbo'd sports cars that spend their entire winters in garages, only to be driven on the odd, fair weather day, usually just a short distance. Are they eating actuators every season? Seems like this is just a crappy part/design by VW. I almost dumped my car over this. I'm crossing my fingers it doesn't happen again now that I am out of warranty..
I've heard of the "anti-seize" fix, but also heard that it is only temporary and the wastegate can seize internally, at some of the points you can't get penetrating oil on.

To be honest the car never saw boost till I bought it the guy who owned it never drove it hard I can tell you that so it's definitely probably not happy I've been in and out of boost consistently. Should I try spraying it with wd40? Maybe something better then wd40? I don't wanna replace the turbo tbh I can't afford it the car has drained my pockets so I'm thinking it may be time to get rid of it but I'm direly trying to keep it because I love the car. Let me know what you think. P.s. the car has never seen winter apparently so I dunno

 

[billqueenis]

To be honest the car never saw boost till I bought it the guy who owned it never drove it hard I can tell you that so it's definitely probably not happy I've been in and out of boost consistently. Should I try spraying it with wd40? Maybe something better then wd40? I don't wanna replace the turbo tbh I can't afford it the car has drained my pockets so I'm thinking it may be time to get rid of it but I'm direly trying to keep it because I love the car. Let me know what you think. P.s. the car has never seen winter apparently so I dunno

I personally think that it is your wastegate that has worn into an oval, they all do that. I know that Viva performance sells one, and it is a direct replacement, I just don't know what turbo your car has.

Another thing you should check is to make sure, all your hose clamps, and all your hoses are connected properly, and also not ripped or torn.

Another thing that you could replace that is a lot easier, is the turbo control valve, or boost solenoid. While you are checking that, you can also make sure that all your vacuum lines are connected and also not cracked and literal cheese. If the car ever had any oil leaks on that side, your vacuum lines could be cheese, so they may require replacing as well.

Personally, I would check the TCV/boost solenoid before I go ahead and replace the actuator, as the TCV is a lot easier of a job, and redoing the lines is always recommended.

 

[Seanie626]

I personally think that it is your wastegate that has worn into an oval, they all do that. I know that Viva performance sells one, and it is a direct replacement, I just don't know what turbo your car has.

Another thing you should check is to make sure, all your hose clamps, and all your hoses are connected properly, and also not ripped or torn.

Another thing that you could replace that is a lot easier, is the turbo control valve, or boost solenoid. While you are checking that, you can also make sure that all your vacuum lines are connected and also not cracked and literal cheese. If the car ever had any oil leaks on that side, your vacuum lines could be cheese, so they may require replacing as well.

Personally, I would check the TCV/boost solenoid before I go ahead and replace the actuator, as the TCV is a lot easier of a job, and redoing the lines is always recommended.

I have replaced the tcv haven't looked at the boost solenoid tho. I also unplugged the tcv and boosted the car to see what the wastegates at and I ran no more then 2psi. Is this normal?

 

[billqueenis]

I have replaced the tcv haven't looked at the boost solenoid tho. I also unplugged the tcv and boosted the car to see what the wastegates at and I ran no more then 2psi. Is this normal?

The way that you diagnose a TCV is by looking how accurate your boost is with and then compare it to without your TCV.

If you unplug your TCV and your boost is still all over the place, there is something else that is causing the boost jump and such, could be loose hoses, looes lines, hose clamps aren't tight...etc. If you get spot on boost with the TCV unplugged, and it boom,boom,boom the same level of boost over and over, but then when you connect TCV your boost goes all over the place, it is your TCV or something wrong with your lines that is causing your boost spikes.

 

[Seanie626]

The way that you diagnose a TCV is by looking how accurate your boost is with and then compare it to without your TCV.

If you unplug your TCV and your boost is still all over the place, there is something else that is causing the boost jump and such, could be loose hoses, looes lines, hose clamps aren't tight...etc. If you get spot on boost with the TCV unplugged, and it boom,boom,boom the same level of boost over and over, but then when you connect TCV your boost goes all over the place, it is your TCV or something wrong with your lines that is causing your boost spikes.

Okay so when unplugged I don't see much over 2psi and it will hold 2psi (I haven't driven the car like that longer then 2 mins tho so could be inaccurate) when connected I see 4psi I only get boost spikes to 10psi maaaaybe one a week and lasts till I turn the car off. I don't think it's the tcv. My lines and hoses are good forsure I've taken them all off and put them on maybe the sleeve going from the charge pipe to the cold side of the turbo is messed up I've no touched it but all clamps seem good I've done a somewhat thorough check. Again the wasegate won't pull vacuum at idle when I disconnect it from the tcv it blows when it's blowing off into the intake but I was told it should be pulling/holding vacuum at idle am I even making sense I have no idea. Trying g to learn so much so fast has me scrambled thank everybody for the help let me know what your thinking.

 

[Eric T Johnson]

The actual wastegate is a metal valve inside the turbo unit, that allows exhaust gas to flow around the turbo, rather than going through the turbo. The wastegate valve is normally kept closed, by a spring inside the turbo. When the wastegate is open, turbo rotation is slowed, and this reduces boost pressure. The wastegate actuator is a device that opens the wastegate, by applying a mechanical force, through a rod attached to the wastegate valve. The wastegate actuator has a rubber diaphragm which can move back and forth. If a vacuum is applied to one side of the wastegate actuator, the diaphragm moves, and the rod moves, and ultimately, the wastegate valve opens. The TCV, turbo control valve, actually controls the wastegate actuator. The TCV has an electric solenoid inside, and this solenoid is operated by electric power delivered from the ECM, engine control module. There has to be a sensor in the system that detects boost pressure, and when this gets too high, the ECM supplies power to the TCV, which then supplies vacuum to the wastegate actuator. There has to be a vacuum pump somewhere under the hood, for the system to work. So, as you can see, there are many pieces and parts to the system. I'm not sure what is wrong with your car, but from the symptoms you describe, it sounds like the turbo itself is OK.

 

[Seanie626]

The actual wastegate is a metal valve inside the turbo unit, that allows exhaust gas to flow around the turbo, rather than going through the turbo. The wastegate valve is normally kept closed, by a spring inside the turbo. When the wastegate is open, turbo rotation is slowed, and this reduces boost pressure. The wastegate actuator is a device that opens the wastegate, by applying a mechanical force, through a rod attached to the wastegate valve. The wastegate actuator has a rubber diaphragm which can move back and forth. If a vacuum is applied to one side of the wastegate actuator, the diaphragm moves, and the rod moves, and ultimately, the wastegate valve opens. The TCV, turbo control valve, actually controls the wastegate actuator. The TCV has an electric solenoid inside, and this solenoid is operated by electric power delivered from the ECM, engine control module. There has to be a sensor in the system that detects boost pressure, and when this gets too high, the ECM supplies power to the TCV, which then supplies vacuum to the wastegate actuator. There has to be a vacuum pump somewhere under the hood, for the system to work. So, as you can see, there are many pieces and parts to the system. I'm not sure what is wrong with your car, but from the symptoms you describe, it sounds like the turbo itself is OK.

Okay thank you I'm trying to pick up a parts s60 with the t5 because I want a better turbo in this before I get it tuned. Having some ghost codes that come and go as they please. Somethings definitely up and I can't afford to just start replacing ****. Plus oem or volvo rated parts are impossible to find at a good price here so we'll see what I do if anyone has further information that would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[Eric T Johnson]

The FCP company, in Massachusetts, has a Mitsubishi turbo for sale for less than 1K, US dollars. The wastegate valve, and the wastegate actuator, are both included with this unit. They might have a TCV, turbo control valve, but I did not see that part while I was browsing their site.

 

[Seanie626]

The FCP company, in Massachusetts, has a Mitsubishi turbo for sale for less than 1K, US dollars. The wastegate valve, and the wastegate actuator, are both included with this unit. They might have a TCV, turbo control valve, but I did not see that part while I was browsing their site.

What's that part number on that?

 

[Seanie626]

The FCP company, in Massachusetts, has a Mitsubishi turbo for sale for less than 1K, US dollars. The wastegate valve, and the wastegate actuator, are both included with this unit. They might have a TCV, turbo control valve, but I did not see that part while I was browsing their site.

They are on backorder sad face

 

[Eric T Johnson]

If my car begins to show symptoms of too much or too little turbo boost, I will likely begin by replacing all of the vacuum hoses in the system. These hoses are old, since my car was new in 2005, and they are original, to my knowledge. I have already replaced several hoses in the crankcase ventilation system. The parts are not expensive, but replacing hoses is a chore, and access can be difficult on these cars. This is the sort of thing that really needs to be done to keep the engine reliable, so the effort is not wasted, even if the original hoses are still working OK.