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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well even though I am not complete since I'm waiting on a few parts I thought I'd make a good reference post concerning the installation of a boost gauge in the R

First step was finding the best place to get a hose through the fire wall. I decided on the hood release cable since the live unti was going to be mounted in a near by area:

Takes a bit of work, but it will go through.

Next was hooking up the live unit. Note that I currently have a Engine System Service Warning which I think originated from not disconnecting the battery before doing any of the following, so I suggest you do.
CEL and error message is now gone : Related thread http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=76385

Edited: I used the power outlet as my 12v ignition source (red wire) and the CEM/Domelight fuse as my 12v constant source (white wire). You can use others but these should work fine




Negative went to ground in the driver side ground that was under the plastic piece near the hood release:


Once all the electrical was hooked up I connected the vacuum line to the live unit and secured all the wires zip-ties. I then found a nice little home for hte live unit underneath this panel.




Routing the gauge was easy and its final location will be this, once my gauge holder comes in. (P.S these do not come with any way of mounting them and the mount is sold separately)


Also a bigger "T" will be needed then what comes with the gauge. The OD of the T is only 1/8 inch and the ID of the Vacuum line from the intake manifold is about 3/16. Here is the line that I will be tapping:


Hope this helps anyone who does this install in the future. I know I searched forever and couldn't find anything as detaile so I hope this will help. I'll update once I complete everything, but the gauge seems to work fine, and sets itself to 0 each time I turn the car on, but again somehting I did pissed off the ECU and I now have a CEL and warning message. I really think not disconnecting the battery prior to disconnecting the ground is what cause the problem, but we'll see what happens once I have the warning cleared. If anyone sees anything wrong with my install, please feel free to let me know, as I rather correct it ASAP.

Modified by UCONNR at 3:44 PM 4-1-2007

Modified by UCONNR at 3:45 PM 4-1-2007

Modified by UCONNR at 3:47 PM 4-1-2007

Modified by UCONNR at 3:48 PM 4-1-2007
 

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Re: Boost Gauge Install (UCONNR)

What size "T" is needed? where did you order it?
and in the last pic, you are tapping the hose that is going horizontally into a pice underneather the silver cover and NOT the hose with the green stripe running vertically into the brass piece, correct?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: Boost Gauge Install (juve021)

Quote, originally posted by juve021 »
What size "T" is needed? and where did you order it?

I'm hoping to get one from a local auto parts store tomorrow. I'm thinking one with 2 1/4" and 1 1/16" connections
 

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Re: Boost Gauge Install (UCONNR)

Wonderful write up! And look guys people will be able to find his thread when searched for! Perfect title for future reference. Great job my friend! Rick http://********************/smile/emthup.gif http://********************/smile/emthup.gif http://********************/smile/emthup.gif http://********************/smile/emthup.gif http://********************/smile/emthup.gif http://********************/smile/emthup.gif http://********************/smile/emthup.gif http://********************/smile/emthup.gif http://********************/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Re: Boost Gauge Install (Mash)

The place where you connected the Ground wire is not 100% reliable it has some insulation, check it out with a voltmeter. You better route another wire from the under the hood grounding point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Re: Boost Gauge Install (Jayam)

Quote, originally posted by Jayam »

The place where you connected the Ground wire is not 100% reliable it has some insulation, check it out with a voltmeter. You better route another wire from the under the hood grounding point.

I think any of the stock grounding connections should be reliable. The insulation over the wire shouldn't hurt anything. Routing wiring through this firewall can be a PITA, or I would have done all of my wiring in the engine compartment. It was hard enough getting the vacuum line through
 

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I agree with Uconnr, as long as its bare metal (and not painted) it should supply a reliable ground. One other point to throw out there about the fused connections:
You could use the fuses for RTI and Telephone (19 and 29) if you don't have either of those options.
 
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