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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So about a week ago my V70R started whistling / howling loudly when cold. While it was doing that it wouldn't make any boost at all, then once it warmed up the noise went away and boost came in as normal.

After a couple of days of that it started whistling all the time, and I had no boost. Shortly after that it didn't whistle any more but there was still no boost.

I thought it was a bad CBV, and since I had a Forge sitting on the shelf waiting to be installed I did that today.

Still no boost, and now it's blowing blue smoke like crazy.

Does this sound like a blown turbo? I bought this one from a SS member, it's supposedly a recently rebuilt Viva hybrid.

I think I know the answer already but figured I'd ask.
 

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Did you see excess oil while installing your CBV, and did you happen to see if your intake pipe was securely installed on the turbo inlet? My PCV was pushing oil into the intake pipe, which in turn allowed it to come off the turbo inlet. I had a loud turbo whine and smoke from the PCV.

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Did you see excess oil while installing your CBV, and did you happen to see if your intake pipe was securely installed on the turbo inlet? My PCV was pushing oil into the intake pipe, which in turn allowed it to come off the turbo inlet. I had a loud turbo whine and smoke from the PCV.

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PCV is post turbine... Sounds like a blown turbo.
 

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Did you check all your hose & pipe connections, just to be sure there's nothing else it could be?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yup, I had tightened the crap out of all the turbo piping a month or so ago. Everything is tight as it should be.

And I'm talking no boost - zip, zilch, nada. I got dusted from the line by a Pontiac Sunfire.
 

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If there are clouds of blue smoke, pull the inlet hose off the turbo and wiggle the compressor wheel up and down/in out. 99 percent chance blown turbo and the turbo shaft end play will probably be bad.
 

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Concur on likelyhood of a blown turbo... that said, I would still do a full inspection - specifically the o-ring at the turbo outlet into the piping going up and over - if it got cut in taking it off and putting it on, it can cause a low/no boost situation... it won't normally cause the smoke, though... I would also go through and check the hose going into the intercooler, as it could have gotten cut or split with over tightening the clamps on it (my original did that - IPD blue silicone to the rescue).
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Pulled the turbo this morning and there doesn't seem to be much play but there's oil all over, both in the intake and the OTE pipe. Since I have it off I'll send it in for a rebuild.

Any suggestions would be welcome.
 

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You may have gotten lucky, and caught it before there was enough shaft play to cause damage to the wheels by touching the housings.

If so, a basic rebuild and clean up will be all the turbo needs.

I'm pretty sure the guys at Viva Performance have the Correct rebuild kit for our specific KKK K-24 Turbo.
 

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If turbo is off, try spinning turbine and compressor wheels independently... With zero boost, it sounds like a sheared turbine shaft may be possible. You can still have the perception of tight bearings and little play with a broken shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just to close this out, the guys at Pure Turbo said it's definitely lunched, and in fact can't even be rebuilt. They also weren't too impressed with whoever Viva had do the hybrid upgrade and rebuild.

I sent them my original 80k stock turbo and they're going to build it with a hybrid wheel so I don't have to change the tune on the car. They're only charging $655 shipped for the rebuild including billet wheel and machine work. If I'd known that was an option I would have gone with them from the start.

-Jason
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
just for the lulz, here's the post-mortem on the turbo from Pureturbos:

Part of the thrust system started making contact with the back of the seal plate in turn seizing the turbo. This could be caused by a few things we noticed internally.

1. Coolant inside turbo. Not good lubrication
2. Wastegate adjusted incorrectly, swing valve open even with wastegate in full closed position. If the turbo was trying to hit a specific boost pressure this would cause it to over spin. If turbo was not high speed balanced this would cause the wheels to wobble.
3. Seal plate O-ring was very old so looks like some type of glue/silicone was used to help seal which might have caused it to sit crocked.
4. Looks like compressor wheel was bored and plugged. If plug was not done correct it can cause the wheel to not sit correct one torqued.

Any of these could have caused the failure but because of how much damage there is internally no way for us to say which one. The compressor wheel, seal plate, bearing housing, an turbine wheel/shaft are all damaged beyond repair.
 

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the failure mode in my K24 (took it apart myself) was that the small thrust washer that also acts as one half of the thrust bearing wore and then broke, causing the shaft to walk from what they describe caused your failure where the seal backplate then acts as the temporary alternative thrust bearing while the turbo grinds and tears itself apart.

When my new turbo was killed by my loss of oil pressure, I used pure turbos too and since they had to replace my CHRA that cost me about $650 too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It's all gibberish to me but the feedback was pretty clear - the previous rebuild was not well done, and ultimately caused the failure. I bought the turbo second hand so I don't have any real recourse with Viva.
 

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I do have to admit the report makes the previous work seem shoddy. Any idea how many miles were on it before it died? At least I got about 160K miles out of my stock unit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Less than 4k miles. And it never ran right, I brought it to JZW Tuning and he wasn't ever able to get the boost he expected out of it.
 

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Yeah, that criteria alone makes it a pretty ****ty turbo rebuild, the other information just confirms it. I've heard so many shoddy turbo rebuild stories in my lifetime its why I tried to do my best research on a good place to have mine redone. Got to say my pure turbo rebuild has been working great, only complaint was that they sent it back to me with all sections incorrectly clocked, despite correctly marking it for reclocking. It appears the final assembly guy might have dropped the ball, but the new CHRA can deliver full boost all the way from 2K to redline over four thousand miles down the road which is the final seal of approval in addition to oil consumption on the motor currently being less than a quart per ten thousand miles.
 

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Got to say my pure turbo rebuild has been working great, only complaint was that they sent it back to me with all sections incorrectly clocked, despite correctly marking it for reclocking. It appears the final assembly guy might have dropped the ball, but the new CHRA can deliver full boost all the way from 2K to redline over four thousand miles down the road which is the final seal of approval in addition to oil consumption on the motor currently being less than a quart per ten thousand miles.
I wrote there first yelp review a few years back after having a very positive experience with them. I've had two turbos rebuilt with them and yes, on the second time around they didn't clock the turbo. Of course I didn't realize this until I had already secured all of the plumbing except for the OTE pipe. If I need another rebuild I will be sure to make sure to specifically ask that it be clocked.
 

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Sorry for the ignorance factor - what is CHRA?

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