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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got my wheel off to find my strut is covered with fluid. Its not wd40 either, it has no smell.

THe dealer better fix this.







Anyone think this is not blown?

The strut on the other side is dry
 

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Re: Blown strut look (zerocover)

Yea the shock look in a bad shape, When you drive over bumps do you hear noise coming from the side where the shock is blown. I just replaced my struts a few weeks ago. They were in similar shape.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
20,000 miles on a 2007.
If they dont cover this I'm going to get volvo corporate on the line. Struts are not a wear and tear item, things like tires and break pads are, anyone else think struts are not warrentied? Is volvo's policy really that bad.

This is on the completely stock suspention.

There is a squishing sound that I thought was coming from the front. Might be the rear
 

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Re: (zerocover)

Before you get yourself all up in a twist just call the dealer. I've found they cover most if not all items until warranty runs out. I have never paid for a light bulb and have even had some brakes covered.
 

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I complained about a chirp over bumps and they replaced my front "absorbers" (their term). It ended up being ungreased brake pad backings, but hey, I'm not one to complain about free parts, so don't worry about them not replacing the parts until you try!
 

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Re: (mattdoc)

Under factory warranty they are warrantable not under CPO though. You should be fine, but they have to determine there is a leak. They may not feel that those are actually leaking just seaping lol.
 

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Re: (ForceFed Motorsports)

So wondering...how long do the rear struts last? Same for the fronts? I have the sport suspension...are they different struts than stock suspension? Read somewhere that our struts poop out at about 40-60K miles. Any truth?

Reason being, Car has 41K miles and has had two sets of tires both cupped while on the rear of the car. Two days ago replaced a great looking set of tires on the rear (because of cupping) with brand new ones - oh, this the second set AFTER the stock Michelins went to warbling. The Conti fronts were clean and true but a little worn so now sit on the rear. All were initially rotated every 5K miles but after they started howling, left them on the rear. Could this be a bearing/axle issue? Struts were clean and free of goo like the ones pictured above.

Perplexed - and sick of replacing tires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Struts dont have to blow, they can also just wear out with time, no goo but still no good.

Struts should last at least 80k miles. But apparently in NJ they only last 20k
 

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Re: (Ride S40T)

Quote, originally posted by Ride S40T »
So wondering...how long do the rear struts last? Same for the fronts? I have the sport suspension...are they different struts than stock suspension? Read somewhere that our struts poop out at about 40-60K miles. Any truth?

Reason being, Car has 41K miles and has had two sets of tires both cupped while on the rear of the car. Two days ago replaced a great looking set of tires on the rear (because of cupping) with brand new ones - oh, this the second set AFTER the stock Michelins went to warbling. The Conti fronts were clean and true but a little worn so now sit on the rear. All were initially rotated every 5K miles but after they started howling, left them on the rear. Could this be a bearing/axle issue? Struts were clean and free of goo like the ones pictured above.

Perplexed - and sick of replacing tires.


Do you have VOLVO rims? What size tire are you running? I have cupping because of the angle of my wheels. That is why I rotate every 3k miles. I had 20k on my first set of tires. so far 10k on the 2nd set.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Re: (x-omatic)

Quote, originally posted by x-omatic »


Do you have VOLVO rims? What size tire are you running? I have cupping because of the angle of my wheels. That is why I rotate every 3k miles. I had 20k on my first set of tires. so far 10k on the 2nd set.

There is no point in rotating tires. If the suspension is good the front and rear will wear at the same rate.

If the suspension has a problem with alignment or the struts. Then one wheel will wear alot and rotation can only mask the problem by spreading out the wear across all the wheels. Pointless when you can just change 2 tires instead of all 4

FYI Ride S40T the sport and normal suspension are the same strut. So it should wear much faster on the sport suspension.
 

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Re: (x-omatic)

17" Volvo Sculptors w/Conti 225/45ZR17's.

Only weirdness on the rear was the camber. Until the Mazda arms were put on a week ago, the right rear camber varied from -2.40 to -3.08 and the left -1.99 to -1.80. Asked the guy who put the arms on to set them at both at -0.7 on the alignment. But he also said the camber wouldn't cup the tires, as we know - poor balancing or bad shocks do. So I'm wondering what's making them look like a washboard.
 

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Re: (Ride S40T)

Quote, originally posted by Ride S40T »
17" Volvo Sculptors w/Conti 225/45ZR17's.

Only weirdness on the rear was the camber. Until the Mazda arms were put on a week ago, the right rear camber varied from -2.40 to -3.08 and the left -1.99 to -1.80. Asked the guy who put the arms on to set them at both at -0.7 on the alignment. But he also said the camber wouldn't cup the tires, as we know - poor balancing or bad shocks do. So I'm wondering what's making them look like a washboard.

Well on my car the alignment and balancing is check everytime I rotate. The cupping is caused by the camber. The wheels have more pressure on the inside edge than the outside and cause the excessive wear.
 

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Re: (zerocover)

Quote, originally posted by zerocover »


There is no point in rotating tires. If the suspension is good the front and rear will wear at the same rate.

If the suspension has a problem with alignment or the struts. Then one wheel will wear alot and rotation can only mask the problem by spreading out the wear across all the wheels. Pointless when you can just change 2 tires instead of all 4

FYI Ride S40T the sport and normal suspension are the same strut. So it should wear much faster on the sport suspension.

There is no problem with the suspension or alignment. The only tires that wear faster are the rears. By rotating them more often I don't need to replace them as fast. I never only replace 2 tires at a time. I always replace all 4 at once.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Re: (x-omatic)

Quote, originally posted by x-omatic »


Well on my car the alignment and balancing is check everytime I rotate. The cupping is caused by the camber. The wheels have more pressure on the inside edge than the outside and cause the excessive wear.

Cupping is caused by the tire jumping around during cornering, eg cupping = bad shocks. Feathering is caused by improper toe. Now these are very similar, so you need to know which you have.
 

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Re: (zerocover)

Quote, originally posted by zerocover »


Cupping is caused by the tire jumping around during cornering, eg cupping = bad shocks. Feathering is caused by improper toe. Now these are very similar, so you need to know which you have.

Maybe I am using the wrong term then. I know there isn't a problem with my shocks/struts. I am 100% positive the wear on the inside on my rear wheels is a direct result of the angle.

This is the best shot I have showing the angle of my rear wheels. This was done because the tires would rub if I had 4 people in the car.
 

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Re: (x-omatic)

x-omatic, what's your rear camber setting and how much feathering do you have...in how many miles?
 

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Re: (Ride S40T)

Quote, originally posted by Ride S40T »
But he also said the camber wouldn't cup the tires, as we know - poor balancing or bad shocks do. So I'm wondering what's making them look like a washboard.
Toe-in. The rears (and the fronts) should be set to the minimum toe spec. This will improve the wear dramatically, and also the handling. Reducing the camber is also important for the same goals, IMO.

Rant mode on. Volvo made a very bad choice in their recommended toe and rear camber. They were evidently trying to improve stability and predictability by causing the rear to "bite" down in favor of the front understeering. But they went way too far. I walk by S40's all the time and just shake my head at the ridiculous camber they're set to. V50's, for some reason, not as much, but they're still way too high. And you can't even see the silly over-toe-in, front and rear. Rant mode off.

Tom.
 
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