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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello - I just barely completed an 11000km road trip. My dear 2000 v70 xc started rattling and whining from a combination of my driveshaft centre bearing and/or torque tube. I removed the driveshaft and then proceeded to drive the remaining 1500km home. During this last leg of the journey the at first intermittent, then non-stop whine from the front of the car, became a cause for concern. We did make it home, but the sound was horrific and the bottom of the car is soaked with oil. I hobbled to our dealer who gave me a list of repairs, none of which sounding like the source of the problem. I have a few questions: 1) I had an oil change part way through the trip - could the "technician" accidentally have drained off some of the bevel gear oil?; 2) Is there a problem caused by driving without the rear driveshaft?; 3) the dealer tells me I need a right front CV joint - but the grinding sound seems to come from both sides, equally. I'm faced with a ridiculously expensive list of repairs (>$6000!) and a car that drives, but reluctantly. Suggestions, please? <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/frown.gif" BORDER="0"> I'm handy but am no mechanic.
 

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Re: bevel gear and torque tube problem? (pmortb)

No<br>No <br>That's absurd! (Maybe not in CAN dollars)
 

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Re: bevel gear and torque tube problem? (JRL)

To echo JRL on the first 2 points: No and No.<p>You will have to be specific about what they said needs repairing in order to add up to $6000 but that sounds way way too expensive for almost any repair unless you need a new bevel gear, driveshaft, viscous coupling and Rear diff which is unlikely.<p>Anyway, to get more specific:<p>An oil change in no way affects the oil in the bevel gear. To start, unless you've drilled a hole in your bevel gear, there is no drain on it just a fill hole. If pulling the driveshaft didn't help your whine issue, then it is likely that the angle gear is the culprit or at least the collar that mates it to the transmission (if you're lucky this is the case but usually it's both). You will want to replace a faulty angle gear and collar b/c eventually they will damage your transmission.<p>Get us some more info so we can help.
 

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I'd have to say that Will is right on this one - the bevel gear splines wear , and damages the sleeve, (or vice-versa, it makes no difference, the result is the same).<p>Since the driveshaft is out, simply hold the pinion flange and turn - if you have ANY freeplay or clunking then you need to replace the BG & the sleeve.<p>1700, + 95 for the sleeve<p><IMG SRC="http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c190/huseinholland/CarMods/P7100474.jpg" BORDER="0"><p><br>OR have them remove the Bevel Gear, and run the car as FWD (requires that you thoroughly clean the existing sleeve splines on the diff side & the diff splines, and loctite so that it cannot "walk" out of the diff)<p><br>
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks all for your comments - I am in the process of getting a second opinion and so far, it looks like the bg is the culprit. Stay tuned. I can't believe, given the large numbers of premature failures, that Volvo has never come clean on this significant driveline issue. I think I saw a previous reference to a potential class action suit?
 

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Re: (pmortb)

Normal cause is uneven tire wear. Unless you can be 100% that you have always kept the tires rotated & within 3/32 of each other, that will kill the BG over time, more rapidly the larger the tire wear discrepancy.<p>Good luck trying to get Volvo to pay any part of it <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vortexmediagroup.com/images/banghead.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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I could see on the newer cars but a 9+ year old car ehhhh
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
OK - my BG, driveshaft and VC are all toast and I have had no luck tracking down a gently used BG. Has anyone ever tried welding a new spline collar to the BG and re-installing?
 

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Re: (pmortb)

Remove the driveshaft and bevel gear run FWD<br>Otherwise the repairs will cost 2 to 3 times what the XC is worth
 

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Someone on here will have a gently used bevel gear for you.<br>Call Volvo and Saab Auto Dismantlers in California. They have a lot of good, rust free parts.<br>vandsautodismantlers.com
 

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I am with JRL on this one. Just get rid of the AWD stuff and run FWD. Otherwise, you might as well dump the car and get something else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Re: (fcpgroton)

OK - so I removed the BG and driveshaft and have put the BG coupling back on with Loctite. I re-installed the front drive axle and now I am losing some transmission fluid from where the BG was - should I expect a bit of weeping here or do I need a new seal? <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/confused.gif" BORDER="0"> Took the car for the first drive in weeks and it sounds good <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/smile.gif" BORDER="0">
 
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