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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So this started off as a very slow loss of coolant, that has developed into a more annoying rate.

About every other day, I have to top off my coolant.

I've already replaced the cap, there were even stains on top of the reservoir, but that didn't correct it.

My engine performance has been fine, I don't have coolant in the crank case, or oil in the reservoir, so I doubt it's a head gasket.

I only seem to lose it if the car is running, there are no puddles under the car.

It became more frequent after the first freeze we had about a week ago.

If I pressure check the system, what pressure do you test at?
 

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I'm not sure if there's such a thing as a coolant dye like they have for AC systems. But something UV reactive should be perfect. Then look at it with a black light and see where its coming out of.
 

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You're sure it's not one of the end-tanks on the radiator? Check really well around the seams for signs of coolant residue.
 

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Also if you smell something sweet in the cabin, it's leaking onto the downpipe or the manifold... I had a busted hose in my 01 S60 that drove me nuts. On the upside, it smelled like candy.
 

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go smell your exhaust. If it smells like delicious candy it is going into your motor despite what you think. If it does you'll probably just want to continue smelling it since you are dead from a pocketbook standpoint anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The last time I was behind my car while it was running, the exhaust smelled exactly like exhaust.

I very very infrequently smell coolant in the cabin. But the smell is so faint, it might just be that I got some on my hands at top up, or that it's in my mind.

I also have 0 white smoke coming out of the tailpipe. I'm ASSuming it's the endtanks, I just can't see anything yet. I also haven't had a chance to take the nose off and inspect. My weekend was chewed up with other people's 'emergencies' :mad:
 

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On my 850 I had a leak under the expansion reservoir, it had a crack in the outlet "nose". My R, actually, has a very slow loss of coolant as well, with no apparent trace..
 

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I have an 06, but I had a slow leak from the lower radiator hose (lower passenger side) where it attaches to the radiator...they seemed to know about this at the dealer and they fixed it under warranty, so maybe it just took a little longer for your issue to appear?

I only found out about it as my local mechanic noticed it...no puddles here either.
 

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I'm not sure if there's such a thing as a coolant dye like they have for AC systems. But something UV reactive should be perfect. Then look at it with a black light and see where its coming out of.
They do make a UV coolant dye, you can get it at any local auto parts store although sometimes you have to ask for it. I know at my local Autozone it is with the A/C stuff but it specifically says Antifreeze/ Coolant. I believe Harbor Freight sells it as well and is probably the best place to get a decent uv light on the cheap.
 

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On my 03SR I had leaking reservoir, common issue on early R's.
I was topping coolant once a day!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
I'll get it up on ramps tonight, and crawl under it with a flashlight.

Pain in the ass.


It initially started about 190 miles away from home too. But about a cup of coolant got me all the way home and to work the next day. It went down to the min mark at that point.

In the two weeks, I've used less than half a gallon of coolant. But it certainly has begun to increase.
 

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You can get UV dye for coolant at ANY autoparts store, hell, even Sears carries the kits. It's really easy. Put some in, let it run, the use a UV flashlight and find the leak.
 

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Heater core, turbo and upper rad hose come to mind. Upper rad hose came a tad loose on me and coolant would "disappear" into the center regions of the car and was hard to see at first. Heater core is just a big pita to check by looking behind center console. Turbo is the last thing that comes to mind....check for smoke after some boost at idle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
I checked the floor and it wasn't wet at all. if I don't find any evidence on the radiator tonight, that's where I'll look next.



Edit: after my most recent peek, it looks like it might be the radiator on the drivers side. The plastic tank has some white stains on it, that appear to be originating from where the endtank attaches to the radiator itself.

While it's still hot when I get home, I'll take a look to see if anything's seeping out.

Thanks for the help everyone. Hopefully this is it.

I've been meaning to adjust my FMIC anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
go smell your exhaust. If it smells like delicious candy it is going into your motor despite what you think. If it does you'll probably just want to continue smelling it since you are dead from a pocketbook standpoint anyways.
You win this round.(Kind of)

I had the local dealer take a look at it. They said I have the "beginning" of a leak, and that they saw coolant leaking out. I'm going to see if I can get it to an indy, since the dealer is talking $3k.(Right again :( )

So far it's an extremely small leak. I should probably invest in a backup vehicle at some point :rolleyes:
 

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You win this round.(Kind of)

I had the local dealer take a look at it. They said I have the "beginning" of a leak, and that they saw coolant leaking out. I'm going to see if I can get it to an indy, since the dealer is talking $3k.(Right again :( )

So far it's an extremely small leak. I should probably invest in a backup vehicle at some point :rolleyes:
damn that's scary...sorry...it's like your engine got cancer :(
 

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The coolant leak that can affect P2's at heater core connections often goes for a while before you see any evidence. Unless you look anyway.
Pull the panel along bottom edge of center console left side and see if you can feel or see coolant.
The thermostat housing can leak and go undetected as it will leak and evaporate on block and only leave the residue but that residue is hard to see.
The ugly, UGLY, one is cylinder wall crack at top. THis one usually ends up with a missing engine for a few seconds on starts after it has been warmed up and then sets for 2-3 hours. The crack opens hot and lets a bit of coolant into cylinder with little or no leak cold.
This crack is found by getting engine hot and then applying pressure to cooling system with pressure tester and then immediately removing coils and plugs and checking for steam/vapor from one of the cylinders. Viewscope check of that cylinder is best confirmation
 
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