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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was having my caR finished up with a Automatic trans cooler and IPD drop-in intercooler. And we noticed the radiator has a leak. So, considering I'm planning to track the caR, what's the best way to go? Replace the radiator with factory replacement or is there a lighter or more efficient upgrade to move to?
 

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I was having my caR finished up with a Automatic trans cooler and IPD drop-in intercooler. And we noticed the radiator has a leak. So, considering I'm planning to track the caR, what's the best way to go? Replace the radiator with factory replacement or is there a lighter or more efficient upgrade to move to?
Viva used to and still might sell an aluminum radiator. I would definitely look into that.
 

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IIRC the all-metal radiator was for manuals only (no integrated trans cooler).

I was really excited about this - but I have a GT and no worky for me...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Some people seem to feel the factory radiator is fine up to about 400hp. So I went ahead and got an OEM replacment.
 

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You can use one of this:

it works.
Also you can remove your weaterstrip which will help reducing engine temp too.
 

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The radiator shouldn't be effected by horsepower. If you have the proper tune with the EGT under control via proper fuel settings, then there shouldn't be a concern.

Plenty of people here running over 400 with the OEM radiator, like Tiger's old car for example... with 200k+ miles on the clock.

I thought the oil cooler was seperate from the radiator.

R_rated, Boosted, Blot and JimLill started talking about the Aftermarket Trans Cooler back in 2006

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?63919-BLOWN-MOTOR!/page3

I believe it carried over here:

http://swede.vortexmediagroup.com/showthread.php?51657-Project-S60RR-MTE-designed-tuned-(bandwidth-challenged-beware)/page2
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The radiator shouldn't be effected by horsepower. If you have the proper tune with the EGT under control via proper fuel settings, then there shouldn't be a concern.

Plenty of people here running over 400 with the OEM radiator, like Tiger's old car for example... with 200k+ miles on the clock.

I thought the oil cooler was seperate from the radiator.

R_rated, Boosted, Blot and JimLill started talking about the Aftermarket Trans Cooler back in 2006

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?63919-BLOWN-MOTOR!/page3

I believe it carried over here:

http://swede.vortexmediagroup.com/showthread.php?51657-Project-S60RR-MTE-designed-tuned-(bandwidth-challenged-beware)/page2
Well, Streets of Willow overheated my caR. I could not drive one full lap hard before the temp gauge starting moving the wrong way. And I put a new radiator in just 3 days ago. One hard lap had me off the track with boiling coolant.
 

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You've got something other than a radiator problem.

I raced a couple years ago with the Audi Club when they did the Las Vegas Speedways old circuit track. It was about 115 degrees that day, not a single problem with 400hp. We raced 9 hours each day for 2 days straight.

If you over heated with a simple 105 after 1 run, you have a thermostat problem or a water temp gauge that's not sending the signal to turn the fan on. Something, but not the radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You've got something other than a radiator problem.

I raced a couple years ago with the Audi Club when they did the Las Vegas Speedways old circuit track. It was about 115 degrees that day, not a single problem with 400hp. We raced 9 hours each day for 2 days straight.

If you over heated with a simple 105 after 1 run, you have a thermostat problem or a water temp gauge that's not sending the signal to turn the fan on. Something, but not the radiator.
Thanks. I was hoping you'd see this.
 

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I suggest that you take a trip to my guys in North Hollywood. There are a bunch of members here that go to them. Few People here like myself and Adam have stage cars well beyond OEM specs... and they seem to be the only ones in the area that handle that type of Volvo.

Here is the address:

Zen Volvo
4377 Vineland Avenue North Hollywood, CA 91602
(818) 508-6235

Ask for Luis or Mike and let them know Bryan Sent you. Anyone else could chime in on Zen, but I think they would be the best.

I sent Luis an e-mail... and I'll probably call them in the morning to see where they are with my new cylinder head.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I suggest that you take a trip to my guys in North Hollywood. There are a bunch of members here that go to them. Few People here like myself and Adam have stage cars well beyond OEM specs... and they seem to be the only ones in the area that handle that type of Volvo.

Here is the address:

Zen Volvo
4377 Vineland Avenue North Hollywood, CA 91602
(818) 508-6235

Ask for Luis or Mike and let them know Bryan Sent you. Anyone else could chime in on Zen, but I think they would be the best.

I sent Luis an e-mail... and I'll probably call them in the morning to see where they are with my new cylinder head.
Very much appreciated. I'll be calling them, but most likely I won't be able to get any work done until after the 1st. Haha!! It's always about $$$! Thanks
 

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My thought is running a non turbo manual radiator (no integrated oil cooler) And a decent separate oil cooler for the engine. I know from previous owned car that a radiator integrated oil cooler is not efficent enough for trackdays.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Good thought. I wonder if any of the guys tracking caRs might chime in.

1. Is running a manual tranny car with factory radiator and oil cooler an adequate setup for hot track days?

2. With GearTronic 6 speed auto, is there any advantage or disadvantage to running with a manual transmission car's factory radiator vs keeping with the factory automatic's radiator?
 

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Shouldn't

Here is a prime example. Marcs Black 2005 is an Automatic. My Silver Car is an manual. We had typically raced side by side at the same tracks in So Cal before he sold it. Marc was also running an IPD stage tune

 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Dropped off the R late Monday morning at Zen Volvo. Spoke to a Luis. Well, as of the end of the day today, Luis says he can't find anything wrong with it. Now he wants it another day.
 

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I've seen R with Aluminium Radiators and R with Aluminium Radiators with ATF inlet/outlets.
So yes the aluminium radiator option is the best way forward.
I am using a similar Alu radiator that Viva used to carry for the R's, 6 track days and coming 2 years and it's still going on strong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I've seen R with Aluminium Radiators and R with Aluminium Radiators with ATF inlet/outlets.
So yes the aluminium radiator option is the best way forward.
I am using a similar Alu radiator that Viva used to carry for the R's, 6 track days and coming 2 years and it's still going on strong.
I can't find any Aluminum Radiators?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well, hell!! Zen Volvo could not pinpoint the overheating problem. So I'm off to pick up the R.

Let's hope my guy can sort this issue out. I don't care how it gets fixed as long as it gets fixed.
 

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Sorry to hear that Oscar. It's weird that you're overheating in the first place. Hopefully you narrow it down.
 
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