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Discussion Starter #1
I just used the Turtle Was Resto Kit - Unimpressive! :thumbdown:
 

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Water, 2000 grit, patience.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Seriously just 2000 grit wetsanding....
What do you use to seal the surface?

On an older car with real bad oxidation I we sanded down to 1000 grit then hit it with a couple of coats of clear. It looks ok but not fantastic.
Thanks
D
 

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Blue Magic sealant from Amazon.
 

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Did you use an electric anything in this process like a drill with a sanding pad or something? Doing it by hand sounds like torture. I got some Meguiars headlight restoration stuff and it works fantastic. Also, once the headlight plastic starts to age, you gotta do this every year or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I followed the manufactures instructions (Turtle wax brand) - you go through four steps by hand with these little numbered (sanding pads) then you apply more of the compound and use and orbital buffer and apply the sealer - it wasn't that bad - I could straighten out my fingers with in a couple of hours.

So Meguiars worked well for you - Did you get the Heavy Duty kit that comes with the polishing/buffing thing for the drill?

Not too many people chimed in yet.
Wet sanding with 2000 grit and sealing with the Blue Magic might be worth a try too...
Still waiting for more suggestions.

Thanks
 

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Did you use an electric anything in this process like a drill with a sanding pad or something? Doing it by hand sounds like torture. I got some Meguiars headlight restoration stuff and it works fantastic. Also, once the headlight plastic starts to age, you gotta do this every year or so.
Old school. Torture? For some. I'd consider it a labor of love.
 

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Most of those kits are overpriced, not to mention that removing sanding marks by hand is extremely difficult.

If they are really bad I start with 1000 grit then follow with 2000 grit. Then polish out the sanding marks with a compound and a dual action polisher, and go over it once again with a polish to restore maximum clarity.

The last step is to seal in the clarity with a plastic sealant or some type of UV inhibitor product so they don't rehaze.
 

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SEM makes a uv inhibitor clearcoat for headlights -- Solaray or something. When you clearcoat you don't have to be as perfect with the sanding/buffing. Just wet sand to 1000 grit or so and the clearcoat gives the final perfect finish.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
SEM makes a uv inhibitor clearcoat for headlights -- Solaray or something. When you clearcoat you don't have to be as perfect with the sanding/buffing. Just wet sand to 1000 grit or so and the clearcoat gives the final perfect finish.
Thanks for the product recommendation - Have you used this?

The kicker here would be the UV lamp at the end of the video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0YRrgrMZB0E

I have been working with my headlights a bit - I went the 1000 grit then 2000 grit some Blue Magic lens restorer, then Blue Magic lens sealer - wasn't thrilled.
So I went back and used a Quixx paint restoration kit (that I had) Really came out pretty good - finished it up with some wax.

I am still not 100 percent pleased but I will keep on trying things.



Thanks again.
 

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Once you get your headlights polished/restored, would it behoove you to get some clear form of this stuff??

http://www.autolumination.com/vinyl_film.htm

I would think the UV blockers in the film would keep this from happening, or at least greatly slow down the oxidization process...
 

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Thought I'd chime in here. I used the 3M kit on a '04 XC90 that were super hazy. It was better, but still cloudy streaks. I really don't want to do the 3M kit again from scratch, so would it make sense to....
wetsand and then seal. If yes, wetsand at 1000 then 2000, then seal?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I went with the 1000 then 2000....next time I will go one more step to 3000.
I think I will look in to the Quixx headlight restoration kit too.
The Blue Magic sealer didn't do much for me.
I really should look into LamineX covers too.
 

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The real answer, if you can afford it (I can't), are e-codes. :)
 

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I have an idea to build a new one.

The real answer, if you can afford it (I can't), are e-codes. :)
After it has dried, you may see the texture blurred lines. These are caused by folds in the surface when in the boot or by the help bars themselves when up. Incredible data folks! There is a receipt for Supaguard dated 2007.
 
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