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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello. I am an owner of a 2006 D5 185PS S80. Bought the car in 2011 and been using it ever since. Driven around on many road trips, ran without problems and served me very well.

Around July in 2019, while traveling over a bridge my car broke down and had to call for recovery. Later turned out that the timing belt had snapped. Went to my local Volvo specialist and he put on a new one as well as making sure everything's fine with the timings. After doing that, a soot filter full message appeared and our mechanic told us that he thinks we have the wrong alternator in. After getting the correct "smart" alternator for our car and a new DPF filter with all of its new sensors, I went to the Volvo dealership to do a final diagnostics to make sure there are no other issues that need fixing.

After the diagnostics, got the car back pretty much a non runner. Cylinder 4 had reported a misfire during the diagnostics and was not running and the car had barely any power, had to tow it back to my house. Since that day, May of 2020 then I've spent a year trying to fix the car fixing every issue that has appeared, none of the issues have gone away and every week if feels like it has less and less power. At collection the car could barely do 20mph, now it can barely do 1mph on flat ground. Have to push the car up my 1° driveway.

Don't know what else there is do to. Car refuses to rev any higher than 1k RPM and has tons of black smoke even at idle. I've gone to 3 mechanics and all of them were pretty much dumbfounded about seeing a car that is mechanically sound but refuses to work. Even my Volvo mechanic. My mechanic recommended to go back to the Volvo dealership and maybe their diagnostics can fault something that his top of the range diagnostics can't, however having been there just now, I've spent £400 on 3h of diagnostics for them to find nothing.

So I turn to you. Maybe collectively you could enlighten me and point out to something that has been missed the last 2 years. My stubborn self just refuses to sell the car or get rid of it. I feel like I'm 1 fix away from a fully working car, though that has been my feeling for the last 15+ part replacements. Having replaced so many brand new parts, I'd know the status of the car perfectly.
122721


If this helps out anyone, a list of things that have been done to try and remedy the problem:
  • New timing belt
  • New alternator
  • New MAF sensor
  • New EGR valve
  • New swirl caps
  • New actuator motor
  • New DPF filter
  • New sensors that a DPF filter needs
  • Complete engine oil change
  • Complete transmission oil change
  • Injectors checked and fully working
  • Turbo checked and fully working
  • New wheel bearing
  • New tires
  • New brakes
  • Compression checks that are as good as they get
  • No blockages, everything's been checked, is clear and clean
And here's a screenshot of my diagnostics that I scanned myself.

122722


Thank you.
 

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Hello. I am an owner of a 2006 D5 185PS S80. Bought the car in 2011 and been using it ever since. Driven around on many road trips, ran without problems and served me very well.

Around July in 2019, while traveling over a bridge my car broke down and had to call for recovery. Later turned out that the timing belt had snapped. Went to my local Volvo specialist and he put on a new one as well as making sure everything's fine with the timings. After doing that, a soot filter full message appeared and our mechanic told us that he thinks we have the wrong alternator in. After getting the correct "smart" alternator for our car and a new DPF filter with all of its new sensors, I went to the Volvo dealership to do a final diagnostics to make sure there are no other issues that need fixing.

After the diagnostics, got the car back pretty much a non runner. Cylinder 4 had reported a misfire during the diagnostics and was not running and the car had barely any power, had to tow it back to my house. Since that day, May of 2020 then I've spent a year trying to fix the car fixing every issue that has appeared, none of the issues have gone away and every week if feels like it has less and less power. At collection the car could barely do 20mph, now it can barely do 1mph on flat ground. Have to push the car up my 1° driveway.

Don't know what else there is do to. Car refuses to rev any higher than 1k RPM and has tons of black smoke even at idle. I've gone to 3 mechanics and all of them were pretty much dumbfounded about seeing a car that is mechanically sound but refuses to work. Even my Volvo mechanic. My mechanic recommended to go back to the Volvo dealership and maybe their diagnostics can fault something that his top of the range diagnostics can't, however having been there just now, I've spent £400 on 3h of diagnostics for them to find nothing.

So I turn to you. Maybe collectively you could enlighten me and point out to something that has been missed the last 2 years. My stubborn self just refuses to sell the car or get rid of it. I feel like I'm 1 fix away from a fully working car, though that has been my feeling for the last 15+ part replacements. Having replaced so many brand new parts, I'd know the status of the car perfectly.
View attachment 122721

If this helps out anyone, a list of things that have been done to try and remedy the problem:
  • New timing belt
  • New alternator
  • New MAF sensor
  • New EGR valve
  • New swirl caps
  • New actuator motor
  • New DPF filter
  • New sensors that a DPF filter needs
  • Complete engine oil change
  • Complete transmission oil change
  • Injectors checked and fully working
  • Turbo checked and fully working
  • New wheel bearing
  • New tires
  • New brakes
  • Compression checks that are as good as they get
  • No blockages, everything's been checked, is clear and clean
And here's a screenshot of my diagnostics that I scanned myself.

View attachment 122722

Thank you.
Checked the exhaust, the Cat???
 

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You had a new timing belt installed, maybe they got the timing wrong?
 

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Can you describe in more detail what was done after it was determined that the timing belt broke?

The D5244TX engines are interference engines, so it is highly likely that internal components got damaged.
If only the timing belt, and hopefully tensioner + idler, were replaced without checking for other damage then no amount of checking the timing will get it right. Both timing marks (camshaft and crankshaft) can line up even if valves are bent. Or, if the valves are fine, there might be damage to the rocker arms and/or smashed guides for the hydraulic tappets and/or damaged hydraulic tappets.

Has anyone at any point done a compression test?

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As far as faults go:

PAM-B1B4696 and PAM-B1B4896
Faulty parking sensors. Should show in the form of an error in the instrument cluster and inoperability of the parking assist.

CEM-B1D1787
Faulty or missing alarm siren. Should show in the form of an error in the instrument cluster and inoperability of the alarm system. Normal alarm siren will not sound, vehicle horn may be used instead.

PDM-XY and DDM-XY
Issues with door control modules.

CEM-B10EA14
Faulty interior cabin heater. Reduced heater capabilities, especially in cold weather.

ECM-P040422 and ECM-P030400
Engine fault. Should show in the form of an error in the instrument cluster. These two errors are a hint as to why the car barely works.
It would be a good idea to read the freeze frame data for these two DTCs. That will give an indication as to the circumstances.

Yellow errors can be disregarded as related to DDM fault. Once DDM fault is rectified, those will go away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Can you describe in more detail what was done after it was determined that the timing belt broke?

The D5244TX engines are interference engines, so it is highly likely that internal components got damaged.
If only the timing belt, and hopefully tensioner + idler, were replaced without checking for other damage then no amount of checking the timing will get it right. Both timing marks (camshaft and crankshaft) can line up even if valves are bent. Or, if the valves are fine, there might be damage to the rocker arms and/or smashed guides for the hydraulic tappets and/or damaged hydraulic tappets.

Has anyone at any point done a compression test?
After the timing belt broke, a new one was put in as well as making sure that the timings were alright and that no parts were damaged, that it runs fine. Also timing belt tensioner was replaced to a new one. After this the engine ran fine. No issues. Had compression checks done and all were pretty much ideal. No parts were damaged and even went to a Volvo dealership where they checked the timings to make sure everything's working as it should be, and the timings came back as good.

The car ran fine after the timing belt fix. It was only after a diagnostics at the Volvo dealership that one of the cyliders was shut off, and this diagnostics was some time after the timing belt fix.

Leak down and/or compression test to check for bent valves??
Compression was great. No damage to other parts either.
 

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Can you get the freeze frame data for the two ECM fault codes and post them here?

What sticks out to me is that you replaced the EGR valve but still get a DTC for it. Can you describe, ideally with the part numbers of the replacement parts, what exactly was replaced.

You list the EGR valve and an actuator. From the order it seems that this is the actuator for the swirl flaps, which are also listed.
However there is another actuator for the EGR valve itself. Part number for that should be #31216573 on the assumption that you have the D5244T4 engine. Was this replaced?

In addition to that - have the glow plugs been replaced?
They are used not only to preheat the cylinder during cold starts but continuously to aid combustion.

Has the wiring for the injectors been checked?
The DTC for a cylinder #4 misfire does not conclusively mean that the issues is with that cylinder. It can also be from cylinder #5.
Issues may come from minor corrosion on the connector that plugs into the injectors, marginal contact because of warpage or damage the connectors suffered (they have a locking tab that holds them firmly in place) or signal degredating from incorrect harness routing.


You could try unplugging the connector on the EGR actuator and see if that changes anything.
Unplugging and reseating the injector connectors, all of them, might also be worth a try.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Can you get the freeze frame data for the two ECM fault codes and post them here?

What sticks out to me is that you replaced the EGR valve but still get a DTC for it. Can you describe, ideally with the part numbers of the replacement parts, what exactly was replaced.

You list the EGR valve and an actuator. From the order it seems that this is the actuator for the swirl flaps, which are also listed.
However there is another actuator for the EGR valve itself. Part number for that should be #31216573 on the assumption that you have the D5244T4 engine. Was this replaced?

In addition to that - have the glow plugs been replaced?
They are used not only to preheat the cylinder during cold starts but continuously to aid combustion.

Has the wiring for the injectors been checked?
The DTC for a cylinder #4 misfire does not conclusively mean that the issues is with that cylinder. It can also be from cylinder #5.
Issues may come from minor corrosion on the connector that plugs into the injectors, marginal contact because of warpage or damage the connectors suffered (they have a locking tab that holds them firmly in place) or signal degredating from incorrect harness routing.

You could try unplugging the connector on the EGR actuator and see if that changes anything.
Unplugging and reseating the injector connectors, all of them, might also be worth a try.
The EGR part itself was 717730095, since the electronical part was still working fine so only needed this. Could you explain what a DTC is? Some error code? And if that's an error code, where do you see an error code relating to the EGR? Yes the actuator replaced was a for the swirl flaps.

From looking online the D5244T4 is the best match for the engine, however getting parts is often confusing since many places will quote a 2012-2014 engine model parts, even the dealership.

Glow plugs have not being touched, however no one's suggested that a faulty glow plug could be the cause of these problems.

The wiring for the injectors has been checked twice at 2 different garages and both times came back as good. Even the injectors themselves have been tested and all were fine but I want to test again at a different place.

Might try the connectors on the EGR and connectors.
 

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DTC = Diagnostic Trouble Code = error code = fault code
Without wishing to come across as rude, a little bit of looking things up would sort a lot of your confusion out.

In the picture with all the fault codes it very clearly has an entry that reads ECM-P040422 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Control Circuit Range/Performance - General Signal Failures - Signal too high.
That is referring to the electrical part of the EGR which is the actuator. Given that the mechanical part of the EGR has been replaced, either the actuator is faulty, not plugged in or something is incorrectly assembled.

As the car emits black smoke the combustion process is very much incomplete. Aka the fuel to air ratio is severely out of wack. You probably know this already.
Running the car in this condition will cause more issues as the catalytic converter and particle filter will get saturated. It will also contribute to clogging up the EGR, intake (+ intercooler with piping) and somewhat cover the glow plugs.
Besides preheating for cold starts the glow plugs are constantly pulsed at a lower rate to raise cylinder temps and provide a cleaner combustion. As such a working but not failed glow plug can fail to raise the temperature enough, leading the ECM (Engine Control Module) to conclude that there is a misfire. Consider it similar to a very dim light bulb - not broken but not working as expected.

VIDA - the software you have used to scan your S80 - has a section that will explain how to troubleshoot any of the fault codes you have found. I'd suggest having a good read prior to doing anything else.
Please provide the freeze frame data for the two DTCs beginning with ECM-P...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
How could I not connect the two? Exhaust Gas REcirculation to EGR and DTC. I knew I'm terrible with abbreviations but not this bad.

Interesting that it's an EGR code since the part I was told was faulty was replaced by a Volvo expert, tested, was happy with the readings and then at the dealership both parts of the EGR were tested and they were happy with the results they got.

I'm still new to VIDA and very confused by the software, especially on the reading part. It having 4 seperate tabs with each varying slightly. Is there some robust guide on how to fully understand the software? If there was I could read again and get the info that might be usefull, such as "freeze frame data."

But yea, very much a domino effect on parts not working, giving off all sorts of readings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Is measuring the ohms resistance on my injectors a valid way to see if any of them are faulty? Took out the suspect injector and measured it's readings on my multimeter and it read 0.3 ohms.

Would anyone know what the figure should be on the multimeter? From looking at my VIDA it's saying part number for my injector is 8603595.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Looking around the ohm reading when testing my injector model should be around 0.22 omhs. Took out all of my injectors and tested them to see what readings I'd get from my multimeter and all of them read 0.2 ohms. Read multiple times and they all read the same 0.2 ohms. This would mean that the signals are fine then I just need to test the spray pattern of the injectors and that would pretty much be all there is to it. If checks out problem must be elsewhere.
 

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A quick search using your video platform or search engine provider of choice would likely help with how to use VIDA.
For your convenience take a look at this:

It is not necessary to run the engine to do diagnostics. For calibrations the engine needs to be turned off. Do not go and try to change things in VIDA just to see if it makes a difference, some things require the vehicle to be driven afterwards to complete calibration.
Using ignition II - insert key, long press button until electronics turn on without foot on the brake pedal - is recommended. As is hooking up a battery charger and turning off things such as lights etc to avoid battery drain.

Caution when removing the injectors or other components of the injection system. Some of the parts, especially the copper washers at the bottom of the injectors, are one time use only.
Volvo states to replace all injector mounting hardware and all injector lines whenever disassembly occurs. Reusing the lines is possible but I'd only do that once, otherwise the risk of a leak increases. Due to the high pressures under operation you don't want a leak.

Bit confused as to why the alternator had to be replaced. Had it been replaced before?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Bit confused as to why the alternator had to be replaced. Had it been replaced before?
Thanks for the vida and about the washers. After a volvo specialist changed my timing belt, changed transmission and engile oil and double checked everything, noticed that the alternator might be the wrong kind, a standart one and not a "smart alternator." Maybe replaced some 8 years before this service? We went to the Volvo dealership to get the exact model number of the alternator we needed and then headed to a parts supplier to tell them that they had sold us the wrong one. We were swapped to a proper one and it had like a price difference of £400 and appart from the price difference and it having dynamic different voltages compared to a non smart alternator, don't know what other differences there are.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Since my last post I've done a bit of testing, going over the injectors again.

Received my noid lights and went to test the signal, to see if the noid lights will light up. All of them did as well as saw that fuel was being pumped through the fuel lines. So no fault there.


Received all my parts with which I could test the injectors with. Took a while because the first signal generator didn't work with my injectors, so had to get a different one.
Tested each injector and all worked perfectly fine, even the 4th cylider one that had the fault code. Everything checks out.

Don't know what's left. Have to check the recently replaced swirl flaps? Will have to put the injectors back and maybe swap them around. Maybe something changes then but last time it didn't, so not sure if anything will now.
 

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Don't swap injectors around. They are coded to the vehicle and the engine control module expects them to be in the position they were when they got programmed.
This is done to compensate for any possible differences in terms of injector performance (through put etc.).

Stop messing around with the hardware and take a closer look at the fault codes.
In addition the way you have tested the injectors doesn't really give an indication other then "not completely broken". Rail pressure on these systems is over 1000 Bar which greatly influences the observable spray pattern.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Don't swap injectors around. They are coded to the vehicle and the engine control module expects them to be in the position they were when they got programmed.
This is done to compensate for any possible differences in terms of injector performance (through put etc.).

Stop messing around with the hardware and take a closer look at the fault codes.
In addition the way you have tested the injectors doesn't really give an indication other then "not completely broken". Rail pressure on these systems is over 1000 Bar which greatly influences the observable spray pattern.
What's left in the software for me to check out? I'll try and reset the codes again so a clean one can be produced.
Is there maybe a list of default values each component is meant to be? If there is I can maybe compare the baseline readouts to the one's I'm getting.
 

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Resetting the codes, without looking at the freeze frame data, doesn't resolve the issue(s).
This randomized approach to fault finding is doing you no favours.

Read the codes with VIDA again. Post a picture of all the faults found.
Get the freeze frame data for the two DTCs beginning with ECM-P... and post pictures of what VIDA shows.
Step 1 should be to figure out what the deal with the EGR is. That is the most direct thing, that the car actually considers to be out of spec, that can impact the combustion process.

As for information about technical details - everything that you need is found in VIDA. Without knowing what the values mean or how and why they are relevant this also won't help you.
 
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